.....if in doubt take it to the shop and get it flushed and re-filled.
prior to that go to the venders on this site and get you a heavy duty csc (Z1) and braided steel line (for clutch) and it wouldn't hurt to get a new clutch - just get a 'sports' Excedy organic clutch. Keep it around till you need to change your clutch - or just get the lot changed at once.
Piece of mind - and no butthole foolery other than a track eh?

cheers

may as well. As for replacing the clutch I only wanna do it once. So if I plop down a million bucks and crack open the car I want to make sure I have something worth doing all that. What would be the most highly recommended clutch you can buy that retains somewhat friendly drivability? Money really isnt an issue IF I only have to do it once. Go big or go home. One restriction though, I want something twin disk or more.

Its easy for me to just look at all the manufactures, look at the prices and deduce whats probably good. But ive never owned any aftermarket clutches for a foreign car so im unfamiliar with all the companies. No one better to ask then those who have the products first hand.

It's also easy to research and research and research - you will come off looking like an *** if you don't try to do so.
There are no easy answers what is best - twin disk? Why? you want something like a twin disk???

Break down your build into sections from the ground up.
tyres/rim/brakes
suspension/chassis
etc etc

It really needs a fine tooth comb approach - researching will allow you to ask the right questions forum people will understand and can answer promptly.
Even the vendors on this site can help immensely with our 'foreign cars'.

GLW build.

All the cars I built from the ground up were classic American muscle cars, so thats what im referring too when I say foreign.

dream list?

Fast intention TT

Already have an ARK DTS.

Running yoko advan neova AD08 R's 265/35R19 305/30R19, just trying them out since Ive already had pole positions and RE-11's on the 09.

Dont plan on doing anything to the suspension as the nismo is decent as it is already.

Plan on putting in another LSD but again cannot decide. The nismo LSD is SUPER TARD noisy and overpriced, and all the other options ive only heard of a couple people using with "yeah its great" reviews for every single one.

Another big thing is final drive ratio, now that I see the new nismo has different gearing it may be possible to have nissan "tune" my cars synchro rev as i dont wanna lose that, if I buy one from them.

Then last but not least is the flywheel, again...... not very informative reviews on ANY of them. So I was just going to find the lightest one I possibly can.

Other than that just dumb little stuff like a new CSC, MC, diff bushings... etc.

I don't understand....why do you own a Z and put more money into it if this is how you view it? It's just like every other automobile out there, you need to change the oil and take care of it.

Yeah I'm confused........did he say he launched at 5000 :eek: in the wet :shakes head:

That only works on Civics/RSX/WRX.

Welcome to the club. Lol for the record 2nd gear launches on a 6 puck do not go well either, been there done that go the Tshirt.

well admittedly i didnt really think too much about it before hand, i was in show off mode. Plus I have a good bit of VERY sticky tires 305/30R19 at 180 TW. so yeah...... i could have had drag radials and had the same results.

and mind you the Z is the deal of a century if you view it as an overall package for what you get, what it can do, for what you pay..... BUT there are some major design oversights and cut corners with extremely questionable quality parts"CSC/MC cough, clutch cough, LSD cough, throttle system cough, bank sensors cough" , which varies wildly from top of the line to absolute garbage ordered off amazon china. that's why my view on the car is what it is. Ive owned a nismo since 09 so ive had plenty of time and experience with it and have learned plenty of lessons. Its an amazing feat of engineering held back somewhat by poor decisions in management im sure based on finances to use very poor quality parts.

100% honestly ? I expect a 40k+ car thats specifically track worthy and designed to be a rugged sports car to perform under stressful situations. Some of the parts used on this car just do not allow for it to reach that level. yeah you should use common sense, which i didnt. BUT if the car cant even handle spinning the clutch for 3 seconds without destroying itself on a TRACK BREED SPORTS CAR then maybe they should consider using a clutch that wasnt from their 5 speed sentra. Its like they designed a car that is for a track that was never intended to be used on one. This point is further pushed by the GTR and its stupid black box and infamous warranty voiding BS with launch control and traction control. They are afraid someone might use the car for what it was SUPPOSED to be designed for, but they all knew it would just break. Why market a product that cannot live up to its own expectations? just my view on it. I wouldnt own the car if i didnt like it for 5 long years. If I had the option to do over I would probably still get a 370 nismo, or the new C7. but for C7 money I would just do the smart thing and buy a porche.

I admit what i did was a little harsh, but nothing over the top. And 99% of its life ive driven it around like im walking on eggshells all the time and it gets stored in a garage, washed and waxed every weekend, looks like I just bought it yesterday. Maybe I was just asking too much of it. Abuse would be like what the guy in the above vid did with that mustang, THATS excessive. As for the vette..... thats just an idiot, with lots of idiot friends who just watched it happen.

You might want to learn how a car works. A hydraulic brake system is a sealed, closed system. There is absolutely no way dust or smoke or any other outside substance can get into your brake hydraulic system unless a line has been broken. In that case you would have no brakes at all. Any black debris in the brake fluid is most likely from overheating. The brake fluid or the seals inside the brake cylinders has overheated and burned. Kids used to take shop when they were in high school. They learned how the various systems work. Now you grow up and buy a car with no idea how it works and wonder why systems fail when used beyond their capabilities. Not to say it's your fault. Society has changed and skills like fixing a car are thought of as lower class. In the day it was something to be admired when a guy could fix most anything. Rant over.

And the only reason it works for civics/rsx is because at 5000rpm they are gutless

If there is enough knock back on the pads and the piston boots have failed you can get trace contamination from out side the system if friction dust get dragged back past the seal, regardless most contamination is from rust, burned fluid, or broken down seals, contamination can also enter through the vented master cylinder cap and be pumped through the lines as well.

the CSC has an issue with clutch friction dust getting pulled back past the seal as well, it gets stuck to the exposed part of the cylinder since there is no wiper seal and as the clutch is actuated it can work its ways past the directional piston seal.

Also the Z and especially the nismo are marketed in a way that is deceptive. It is billed as a great cheap track car for enthusiasts when in reality it is soooo bad from the factory that car and driver suffered complete brake failure 2 laps into testing the car and totaled it into a wall on track. Nissan miscalculated and corrected the pad compound so that now they will last 5 laps but the car will over heat on the third. but it has a wing and a racing reference stripe on the steering wheel now :rolleyes:

I don't usually post in these mind numbing threads. But I am still trying to wrap my head around side stepping the clutch at 5k on a wet surface and not being able to roast the tires down. I drag my car quite often and side step it at around 3.5k while preloading the car and struggle for traction off the line through almost the top of second. If I did the same at 5k I would get stupid amounts of wheel hop and just spanking the rear tires off the back. I don't care what tires you are running or how sticky they are, when you drop the clutch at 5k on a wet road and you smoke the clutch, that leads me to honestly believe, and don't take this the wrong way, but don't know how to drive a stick shift and have managed to damage it before doing this. I sit at the tree at the strip slipping the hell out of the clutch while waiting for the tree to drop. I am at 70k on the factory clutch still and it still holds strong, each and every power shift. Only clutch issue I have ran into was when I went in for a brake and clutch fluid change to GTR fluid and the clutch fluid had broken down to much and clogged either the master or slave and stopped draining half way through the change. Got both replaced.

Side-stepping the clutch pedal at 5 grand on a wet road and not spinning the tires. Tells me one thing. You're was in the wrong gear. Most likely 3rd, not 1st. :driving:

Just have the clutch fluid changed and clean out the black sludge. It is normal for that black sludge to build up and was not due to your attempt at some fun.

All I have to say is upgrade time. Time to upgrade to a lightened flywheel and good quality clutch, pressure plate. Don't skimp on the clutch, lightened flywheels love to slip cheap clutches in no time and you will be doing it again.


Look at it this way. Whoever drove my car 19,000 miles couldn't drive a manual for crap. I get to have the studdering take offs without the attempt at any fun. That's OK though, I will correct that issue in due time.