If you jumped your car again does it start up? If I didn't overlook anything and you are not pulling codes, it is probably because your alternator is not charging your battery while running, or rather it's not powering your electrical system. So your battery is taking the beating and your car dies as the battery doesn't have enough juice to keep the car running, however, it can still crank the car but not have enough power to start the car.

Could be as simple as that, but dunno. Hope this helps and that it is something as small

Maybe toss a known good battery in? These things get wierd with low batteries. That wouldn't be the main cause, but it would rule something out.

That sounds like something worth pursuing. Put a voltmeter on the battery and make sure it is charged and watch the dash voltmeter to verify alternator is working properly. Might be worthwhile to have the battery tested under load.

An electrical system issue could make sensors read screwy, so it's worth investigating.

yup running 100% fine, the weather was crappy yesterday so I took the civic to work, after work I came home to get the car, it cranked and the battery got weak after about 3 tries so I hooked up the jumper, it fired on the first turn over and ran for 5 minutes and ran fine, and then it just shut off and will not restart since, with the jumper hooked up.

Have you checked the electrolyte level in the battery?

Edit: levels - there are 6 cells in a car battery.

Check to make sure no harness's are melted. Transmission harness is somewhat close to all that exhaust side piping...I think haven't seen a BP kit in person...but I melted mine into a solid mass on the dyno. Anyways make sure nothing is melted...if the transmission position sensors wiring grounds out or anything the car will crank but never start. But with that you should have codes...But my guess is electrical/sensor issue. Check fuses as well.

Your battery could be dead as well. I would take the battery out and take it to a local auto parts store like autozone, oreillys, napa etc and let them do a Battery Stablization test. If it fails to hold a charge then the battery can't maintain its voltage and can no longer be stabilized.

Fuses are a good thing to check first. If the battery ends up being dead, get the new one, put it in, start the car if it starts, or try jumping and check your voltage reading on your instrument panel, it should be around 13-14 volts if the alternator is good. A battery only remains at 12.76 volts -+15.

Agm battery its not cranking slow after I juice the battery it just cranks slow after I tried 10 times ;)

Well, if you're convinced the electrical system is OK the next thing to check is the cam sensor. Do you know someone with a Z who will let you use theirs for a minute to see if that solves it?

BTW, my money still says it's an electrical issue somewhere in there.

I'm sympathetic that your ambitious project car is causing you headaches. I've been there....the reason that both of the 370Z's I've owned have remained entirely stock, and completely headache-free.

Its worth it, trust me everytime the BOV sounds off I smile :: Just glad we recently hired a 10 year Nissan tech...I took him over on our lunch break, he said Nissan ECUs are a PITA with setting codes. We hard reset the ecu, he checked a few things and then we cranked it over and over again, between tries we reset the ecu with the scanner. After the third try it finally frigging coded p0335 crank sensor, it so flipping hard to see from the top we cant tell if I melted the harness or the sensor just went, now I got to find a way to get it over to the shop.

Is it the crank sensor that's the cheaper one of the two?

90 bucks from Nissan, the problem will be installation, I got to find a way to get it over to the shop so I can lift it up to see if I melted the harness or the sensor just pooped out. I wondering it I damaged it or hopnig I did when I put the trans back in, but I drove over 700 miles round trip to get tuned, multiple dyno pulls etc. Just glad it did not die on me somewhere else, gonna have to seriously think about a strategy if the car bones out while I am away from home.

The car's at your house? Is there any way you can just swap the sensor over at home?