My engine issue
 

It looks my oil pump let go at 8100 rpm. and then the engine just stopped.
all sorts of codes. Eventually the car stopped running, Some thing let go in the cam gears on the drivers side. It turns over perfectly just does not start.
To be taken apart in a few months

Z

Your posts was moved here.

If it turns into a FI issue? Let me know and I'll move it.

Hopefully the damage to the engine isn't major.

Good Luck and Keep us posted.

Bummer! Doesn't this need to be in the engine and drivetrain section though?

Thanks for pointing that out :icon17:

What was you doing when this happened? Street, strip?

Does not really matter, 8100rpm is too much for the OEM oil pump ... it will cr4p itself and lunch the engine big-time.

Loss of oil pressure at 8100rpm = lunched bearings in top and bottom end.

Again? I thought you had this happen to you a while back? Or did you run another motor up high enough to lunch an oil pump? Next time put in a Nismo oil pump or trust the factory engineers who set the redline at 7500 to prevent exactly this from happening.

Edit- Yep, that's twice that 8100 rpm has kicked you in the wallet. http://www.the370z.com/canada/73134-...er-breaks.html Either build the motor to handle it or stop running it up that high.

Third time's a charm?

i think he just likes buying parts and reminding everyone in here what he bought.

good luck OP...

lmao

Interesting

Speaking of the Nismo Oil Pump, I actually emailed the Nismo parts department about getting the oil pump, and how much it costs. They never emailed me back. I'm debating doing this as a preventative part since I currently have lots of time to work with my car. If the price is right of course.

Its the same engine.
GTM is doing the oil pump in built moter.

z

So it was rebuilt and then it let go at 8100 rpm again?

Ouch.

no he has two engines i think, you still haven't gotten the one from gtm yet right?

i did have 2 spare engines. The one at GTM, is almost finished, Sam is just about finished building the stage 3 heads by next week. Its a 4.2 , 11.1 fully built stroker .
The other motor got stolen from me.
Yes it hurts, one blew up, one got stolen and one is almost ready to be installed.
Have not driven the Z since June 23 2013.

Z

I don't understand the point of this thread really.

"Hey guys, I swung a baseball bat at my windshield and it let go. Cracks everywhere. Can't see through it anymore. Will be removed and replaced."

http://www.freesmileys.org/smileys/smiley-fc/dunno.gif

I took the post as informational. Either 1.) Don't change the rev limits or 2.) Be prepared with additional modifications if you do change it.


The only thing needed that would have prevented the issue is the Nismo oil pump?

LOL! I thought it was well known NeeeZmo oil pump for RPM > 7.600RPM?! I'm gonna Nstall mine before I reflash ECU....:tup:

staying N/A? here comes that 1/4 mile record... lol

Did you seriously post a duplicate thread about your blown motor almost exactly 6 months after you originally posted about it? Are you really that much of an attention whore?


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You're an ausi, get PPG on board to get us one made that can handle the rpms. If I'm not mistaken its the gear that breaks. Right up PPG's alley. I'd love a straight cut gear set!!

R32, R33, R34, Z32 Product Range - Pfitzner Performance Gearbox

*Aussie

Like he just said this it the 3rd or 2nd engine that blew not the first one.

Z eliminator you have TERRIBLE luck with motors, I suggest you add a couple horse shoes, a rabbits foot keychain, and maybe get alittle hydroponic clover bed in the trunk.

I still say the only real fix for the high rpm issue is going drysump. Need to get the pump off the crank nose. Maybe the ati balancer would help it live a little longer. The drysump would also help in the vvel oiling department

It may sound dumb, IDK. I just woke up... Any way to fit a larger pulley on the pump to slow it down if you wanted to bump your limiter up? IDK where it's located or what it looks like, just a question...

According to page LU-10 of the 2009 FSM, the pump is directly driven by the crankshaft. Ie, no gears, pulleys, or other means to change speed.

Guess that's why they say it's a supreme PITA to replace

No no no, his awful grammar and reading comprehension has misled you.

He says he hasn't driven the car since June, that is when his FIRST motor popped.

Let's break it down:

Factory Engine: blown June 2013
Spare 1: @ GTM
Spare 2: "Stolen"

He has done exactly what I said he has done: posted another thread about the exact same engine, 6 months later.


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That's a whole lot better than willfully blowing a motor running it to 8100rpm and then going and doing the exact same thing again. :rofl2:

Very true. But what is killing me is how do you steal or have a motor stolen from you? I mean that is not something that you just have hanging out in the back yard.............and you would need an obvious means of moving it AND transporting it. But like they said in Talladega Nights, "That just happened!"

Motor #1 destroyed

Motor #2 at GTM being built

Motor #3 was a built motor sold to him from a "trusted" shop and stolen by a ex-employee of said shop. The short version...

Motor #3 was at the shop where he bought it. He didn't have time to pick up/move the motor to another location right away. In the meantime the shop fired one of their employees, and that employee took it saying it was his. No official bill of sale, his word vs. the shop/ex employee. Police report filed, lawsuit the only option. He would spend more in legal fees than its worth so he's chalked it up to an expensive mistake, lesson learned.

Damn that sux, baad luck dude just baad luck

oh see i thought it was

motor 1 destroyed and sent to gtm

motor 2 stolen

motor 3 in the car now its blown too

PPG do gearboxes ..... In terms of gearboxes ... I already have a Holinger HS6 in stock ... just waiting for all the other stuff to arrive (budget-bound at present, so it is a case of making purchases each month - donor VQ35HR engine assembly on the floor, steel-crank ordered, rods/pistons next then cams/valves/springs/retainer package and so it goes on - will take around 12 months to assemble all the bits).

In terms of dry-sump, there are 2 options ....

Dailey engineering, Dry Sump Oil Pumps
or
ARE, Armstrong Race Engine Systems - Cast Aluminum And Magnesium Components For Professional Racing

Apologies to the OP for going off-thread

Ouch

are doesn't list one for the hr/vhr? also there are not "traditional" gears in the oem pump it is just a gerotor assemble on the crank nose. google gerotor an just picture the center part as slipping over the crank nose. when the crank nose vibrates it slams the inner and outer gears together, this is why the only solution is to get it off the crank. The daileys pump spin around 87% crank spped so they are still moving very fast but they dont get crank nose vibrations. Daileys does this to make the pump smaller, the rest of the drysump industry runs more around 50% crank speed on a larger pump, so for the higher speed the daileys pump is more expensive, and because it is attached to the pan with a special flange you cant use a different pump.

I would sue that shop. No "official" bill of sale, WTF?!

:wtf2:

NISMO pump isnt going to save anyone's engine. It never did on the DE. The VR38 took the oil pump off the crankshaft for a reason!