5w30 Oil for 370z
 

I have recently found out my car is burning M1 0W40 oil, i figure its because it is less viscous when cold compared to a 5w30 oil(i tend to go past 4k on accident when oil is not up to temp when getting up to speed on the highway) so i kind of figured i should change back to a 5w30 oil and see if im still burning oil before i take my car in for an oil consumption test(and i wasnt burning oil with nissan's ester oil)

i burnt approximately half a quart in the last 2k miles(which im not sure if that is normal but i dont remember burning that much with nissan's oil) because when i say i was a bit low on oil i poured half a quart in and i was just a tad under the high mark

I want to go with an ester based oil since it is recommended for the car, so my question is what does everyone recommend that is not too expensive, I know about redline which everyone uses but they are kind of hard to find in local automotive stores and id rather not wait for oil to be shipped out to me

I know royal purple is a ester based oil but from what i have heard is that royal purple turns to **** after 3k miles

any recommendations would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

Just get Redline. I order mine from Amazon. With Amazon Prime free two day shipping, I get it in two days or less.

ok where can i buy it in a store?

i dont buy oils online because i have to wait for my oil to ship and i dont have amazon prime so its gonna be like 3-5 days before i get my oil and i need it by monday which is when i have access to the lift in my auto class

i would rather not wait on this and get it done asap

1. You are in SoCal: the viscosity difference of an 0w and 5w at your temps is nothing, and not a cause of consumption. M1 0/40 is a very light 40w (often shearing to a 30), but otherwise a fantastic add pack oil. For example, Amsoil rates their 0w vs 5w as:

AMSOIL 0W-30 is 57.3 cST @ 40 deg. C, & 11.3 cST @ 100 deg. C
AMSOIL 5W-30 is 59.5 cST @ 40 deg. C, & 11.7 cST @ 100 deg. C

2. Over 4K on 'accident'? This ain't a diesel: drive it :P

3. 1/2 qt in 2K miles is below tolerances. Over 1qt per 1K miles is when people tend to want to run an oil consumption test for possibly inclusion in the warranty replacement longblock TSB.

4. Be careful what you 'hear' about oil. Everyone has an opinion. The smart ones back their opinions with facts, analysis, and trending.

5. Pennzoil Ultra 5/30, 5qt usually for 28 at wally world, good UOAs in my car is my recommendation. You can't go wrong with Redline, RP, or so many other products either as they are all excellent.

6. Finally, don't over think it. That's what folks do at BITOG.com :D

- b

thank you for your reply, i have heard from a few personal friends that running 0w40 M1 will burn a little bit of oil if you gun it while not up at operating temps, i try to keep it conservative until my oil temps are up to at least 160-170F before i start driving it like a madman

the only reason i ask is because i didnt burn this much running Nissan's ester oil(i drained out about 5qts of oil when i did the switch to M1 0w40 and that was after 5k miles on the oil)

How many oil changes have you done with m1? Do you have enough data to establish real trending to compare consumption with oil a to consumption with oil b? That is my main point. Yes some engines empirically respond a bit different to formulations. But to base a change on what others just say is no where near as effective as real data from you :)

I only run 5/30 while under warranty. Non us z car manuals allow for 40w and such. If I still have her outside of the extended power train warranty I will use m1 0/40 and see how uoa look. Mostly because its a single oil to keep in the garage and the penn. ultra I u we now is not a high volume product.

- b

just 1 oil change so far with M1, i havent drained the the fluid yet to measure how much is in it at the moment, i just poured half a quart when i noticed it was low and it put my oil level a tad bit under the H dot

i estimate i burnt about half a quart give, do you think it is just doing this because i moved from nissan's ester 5w30 to M1 0w40?
it has had nissan's ester oil for its entire life until i changed to m1 0w40 at 29k miles

German dealers use 5-30 Castrol synthetic. Thats all you need. The oil change interval here is 15,000km's as well. A good synthetic will last. My last Blackstone around 7500+miles was to got to 10,000mi which is about what my German dealer recommends. Go figure.

My car gets driven hard but responsibly. I have an oil cooler and cover plate for the cooler winter months. I see normally 185+ on temps but nothing over 220+ in summer and hard, fun driving.

Bvl has great advice for you above. Do not over think this issue. Its soooooo not worth it.

Amsoil signature series 5W30 is the way to go. Do research on it vs Mobil 1 or any other oils.

Amsoil was the first in synthetics as well as far outperform just about every oil.
If you can buy the motor oil at Walmart its not the best oil ;)

Assuming you are still looking to pick up Redline locally, maybe you can try calling the list of distributors near you?

Red Line Synthetic Oil

I'll bite. Please list these other oils. They're the ones I want to buy!:ugh2:

Mobil 1
Valvoline
Redline
Motul
Castrol

This is to name a few

Here's the Mobil 1 vs Amsoil test-
http://www.synthetic-oil-tech.com/d...._vs_mobil1.htm

I am not trying to start an oil arguement as some people get heated about their oil being the best... I'm just stating the facts after test results and I was a Mobil 1 user on my 350z and could feel the friction it caused at high RPMs and switched to Amsoil and my engine felt more smooth and powerful.

Nor me. But I've used Mobil 1 and I can make the same statement. This doesn't help those that look to the internet forums for the 'best' oil. The best oil for our Z's is simple - API SM or SN 5W30. Source: Nissan engineers. Others will say 0W20 for any type of engine, NA or FI, because it removes heat better due to higher flow i.e. less viscous. Whatever. At the end of the day, as long as the oil is API certified, dino or synthetic, it all works. I have yet to see an oil company under a court order or voluntarily remove their oil from the shelves because it was a 'bad' batch causing premature engine wear and/or failure. Something for all to think about.

Well with an engine that is notorious for burning oil... Finding an oil that can withstand more is a good idea.. When I ran mobil 1 in my 350z it would burn oil after switching to amsoil I would have the exact amount I put in for the oil change down to the drop.

OP get amsoil signature series 5w30 and you will thank me I promise!

ill give amsoil a shot, a few of the guys in my local clubs are amsoil dealers, im also gonna look more into redline since it is the popular oil around here and there are some local dealers :)

anyone know anything about royal purple HPS?

i so far have read good and bad things about it and im unable to really make up my mind about it

just gonna price out oils now and see which one can give me the best bang for buck

Thanks everyone again for your help

If you are burning oil, it doesnt matter what you use. If its getting combusted you have motor issues not oil.

Even on BITOG the debate rages over AMS vs M1. Good luck with that. A cursory search on google shows how many AMS dealers are there vs real data. AMS has a pyramid marketing feel and with so many dealers there its more about their sales than performance. Some posters on BITOG find the AMS is great but gets thicker faster. There is an upside and a downside to any oil. Every link on Google's first 2 pages are just AMS dealers pushing the same test data. A marginal performance over M1. Take the temp data-- its about a few degree's difference at -48F. Minus 48 Im not leaving the house and probably your tires DO not hack those conditions. It makes for a great sale pitch though!

That being said the reputation of AMS is like buying perfume from Avon. As far as corporate polish go they lack it. If major performance producers of cars dont use them for fleets or factory fills there is a reason.

I live near Porsche and have some contacts at Weissach, the test facility. I asked one some time ago about Mobil 1. They use it because it works. End of story. He didnt offer engineering speak etc. It works and the performance of the oil protects the Cayenne to the GT2 Turbo to the Cayman. They can use any oil they want and those engineers picked Mobil 1. This over major good Euro brands to boot.

No formula is perfect for every condition. **The consensus on BITOG is AMS or M1 will take you to 300,000mi if you desire.** The marginal differences for either do not matter and cannot be felt by the butt dyno.

One other thing to consider OP. some engines consume a bit of oil. Its normal.

Do you want to spend 10qt on a boutique oil and top off or 5 a qt on a Mobil 1 or pennzoil platinum or ultra? The longer your OCI, the more top off required. More top off means you are refreshening th add pack over time. If you are go going with a short OCI then really a 15 blend is perfectly good.

Amsoil makes good products no doubt but on a car that naturally consumes I see no reason to use it myself. I like it more in fleet vehicles where you are running ear long OCI and changing the filter between as they specify.

- b

All I can add to this thread is that I've been using M1 0W-40 in my last two performance cars (an 02 Viper GTS, and an 07 Z06), and I never had an issue with oil usage. I changed over to the M1 0W-40 in my Z last oil change, and so far, I'm haven't noticed any change in usage. My suggestion would be to give it another change or two before you move on to another oil. The way 99% of us use our cars, any good quality oil will work just fine. M1 is certainly as good as most other synthetics, and better than many.

Sorry, I didn't notice the year of your car, but if it's older, and has a decent amount of miles, a bit of oil usage would be normal...

The oil debate is so rediculous. Im using Penzoil platinum 5w-30 as I used it in my Subaru WRX for 30k miles and never had an issue. For that reason, I will stick with it.

If you go to Nissan and get an oil change from the dealership, you're most likely getting oil that is bulk shipped and of lesser quality then the oils being mentioned in this thread. It works though. Most of us aren't driving our cars hard enough for it to even matter. With the exception of those who are FI or have a ridiculous heavy foot.

I used the cheapest oil I could find including Walmart recycled oil in my Pinto for 100,000 miles and when I pulled it apart at 120K to do a general rebuild the engine was clean as a whistle and burned very little oil. I just pulled it apart due to boredom and curiosity.
My point is change the oil regularly and you'll have no problems no matter what oil you use as long as it's decent.

It is fun to debate oil though...

Great oil! Will be giving this a try as well. I have heard and read good things about it.

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:wtf2:

I have a 2013 370z nismo and the first oil change I used royal purple 5W-30 .. First thing I noticed at cold starts the engine sounded smoother, 2nd thing is I noticed in warmer temps it look longer than usual for the engine temp to rise which is always a good thing and I did notice a slight improvement on acceleration..If you push your car hard always expect to burn a little oil it's perfectly normal, harder you push the more frequently I would check your oil level.Over all I would recommend royal purple for performance and peace of mind.

ibtl

Motul 300V is an Esther core. I use their 5W30, thinking of going 5W40 in the summer this year for track days.

:iagree::roflpuke2:

I like shell rotella t6 full synthetic 5w40. Run it in all my cars and priced right.