The Z1 plate is rated at 169, so having it dip below 180 degrees on the hwy doesn't cause me to question its functionality, what is causing me to question it is the long oil warm up times.

I think you're basically at the point where you need to fashion some type of cover for colder months, or take the cooler off.

I'll see how it goes, the Z will be stored during the winter months. Will continuously driving the car taking 18 miles to reach 180 degree oil temp be bad for the engine?

As per others, put something in front of the cooler to block flow (doesn't have to be permanent for this test; a piece of cardboard will work) and see what happens. If temp rises faster, you may have a thermostat problem.

I doubt you'll have a problem with the oil being too cold, although your fuel economy may take a bit of a hit since you're in the cold start part of the map more.

The thermo sandwich plate is the piece the oil filter screws onto, correct? So if my kit came with a thermo sandwich plate, its basically a requirement for it to be installed, correct?

Not all plates are thermostatic. You will definitely have an adapter plate but it may or may not have a thermostat. There may be some markings on the plate (eg, model number) that would tell you if it has a thermo or not.

A Q&D test would be to feel the lines going to the cooler as the engine warms up. If the hoses warm up at a more-or-less constant rate, you have no thermo. If they stay fairly cool and then warm up suddenly when the oil temp gets close to the thermo setting, you have a thermo. Not fool-proof but worth a try.

In fashioning a DIY 'blocking plate' for my oil cooler (19 row by the way) due to the loooong warm up times during winter times, I did the following. Wanting a lightweight but durable blocking plate, I went to Home Depot and bought an aluminum 'For Sale' sign , Flat Black (matte) spray paint can and a roll of industrial strength double stick tape (Gummy kind with a red peel-off covering). I measured the outside width of the cooler and the height to which the top 3 - 4 rows of the cooler would still be exposed, then cut the sign accordingly. I spray painted it per the directions on the can (about 3 layers) and secured it to the cooler with the double stick tape. Being that the tape is grey in cooler and would show from the front of the car, I further taped it up with some black electrical tape I happened to have handy. The result? faster warm up times (about 6-7 miles / 5 minutes) in 40ish degree weather up to 180°F. I don't drive her the short distance to work if temps are below 40°F. Here's a pic of what the DIY blocking plate looks like - it's on the Driver's side and it is hard to see... (exactly what I wanted):Attachment 75961

Do you have a thermostatic sandwich plate also?

2nd! In case you missed it in my previous post, here's my cheap but clean solution for block-off plate where I can resize as needed.

Nope... I did not know of its existence when I ordered my Oil Cooler Kit... :shakes head:

Does anyone know if there are any cosmetic differences between the Z1 regular sandwich plate and a thermostatic one? I'll be bringing my car to the shop that installed my oil cooler on Saturday due to a oil leak somewhere around the filter area. If there's any cosmetic differences, I'll be able to take a look at the plate while their inspecting the leak and verify if it's thermostatic or not.

Yes the 2JZ pump has a much better reputation but the design on it is clearly more durable. It uses a spline to drive the center gear meaning the center gear has a more uniform thickness instead of the 2 large flats that leave thin spots in the gears in the corners, the spline is also going to absorb the crank vibrations smoother than the Flats which tend to knock around more violently at high speed. The gear set also uses the older tooth style for pump itself which moves less oil, but does give you a more durable outer gear that is more resistant to minor vibration. the vq pump does flow more oil, and probably draws less power but is not as stable at high rpms, if you look toyota uses a vq style gearset and flat drive on the slower v6 and v8 engines.

Yes, the non-thermostatic Mocal Plate does not have a large, machined threaded hex cap on one end. Whereas a Thermostatic does. It is easy to spot. It is the only machined, shiny piece on the sandwich plate near the fittings.

If there is a leak, double check that they tightened the following:

1. 25mm Sandwich Plate Bolt
2. adapter fittings on sandwich plate
3. Hose fittings attaching to adapter fittings

Might want to also make sure that the installed did not pinch the O-ring on the sandwich plate.

Whtfairladyz aka Dustin@Z1

Just like the one in this picture?
http://www.the370z.com/attachments/e...7-17.56.47.jpg