Cruising at 180 to 190, and spirited driving pushing it up to 220 or so, would be ideal I would think. What do you think daily cruising temps of 220/225 (for those of us with no cooler), and occasional spirited driving increases to 250/260, will do to the longevity of the engine? There is a line of thought here that these temps will shorten the engine life. Is there any definitive reasoning that this is the case? I guess the best way to be safe is to add the cooler.

John

I wanted to let you guys know about a new gallery I just finished up on our website. Its the install pics of our Nissan Motorsports Oil Cooler Kit that we put on our 370Z shop car. I hope these pics help those of you who are installing an oil cooler (be it a Stillen, Nissan Motorsports, etc ) or those of you who are on the fence about purchasing one.

Z1motorsports :: Nissan Motorsports 370Z Oil Cooler Installation Pics

Ernie...I ve gotten some info together. I ll be shooting you a PM this evening.

I'm trying to compare other core size's. I keep multiplying the numbers and i can't come with your numbers!

What am i doing wrong?

n/m

Sorry about the confusion. I was only multiplying the Width of the core by the height to give a representation of the surface area. I listed the Length, Width and Depth of the coolers.

Stillen = 13" x 5 3/4" = 74.75 sq in surface area (somehow my math was a little off even)

Nissan Motorsports = 13" 10 1/4" = 133.25 sq in in surface area.

I hope this alleviates some of the confusion....

Afsbimmer,
I m glad to hear that there are more local Atlanta guys popping up on these forums with their 370z's. As far as the warranty on the cooler, it is to my understanding that it is guarenteed against product defects. To what point that the warranty is carried beyond that I am unsure, I will check with my Nissan Motorsports today for a clearification. As far as the OE Nissan Warranty, since it is a product offered by Nissan it should not affect your car's warranty in any way.

As far as the installation, we have done quite a few of these Motorsports Coolers already. I m not sure how familiar you are with our shop, but I invite you to come out and check us out. Here is the link to our shop:

Z1Motorsports.com - Nissan 300zx, 350Z, 370Z, Infiniti G35, and G37 Parts and Performance Experts.

For an exact rate on the install, give John a call in the service department. You can reach him at 770 838 7777 ext 311.

For that matter, we are having our annual Z/G and now GT-R car show at our shop coming up in September. It will be a 3 day event consisting of a road course event, 1/4 mile drag race day and a full day consisting of a car show/dyno competition. You should try to come out and check out our shop and all the other cars that attending..it should give you alot of inspiration and ideas for your own car!

The website for the event is:

Z Nationals Event Website

Give me a call at the shop if you ve got any questions!

Since there has been a comparison, this should also be included:

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...il-cooler.html

Wait I'm getting confused here...
Why would you pay 800 bucks for an oil cooler when you can build one for yourself for under 350.
Crazy people!

About time, we were starting to think you skipped town on the Z34's...lol

I will jump over to the new thread and read up. Thx Josh!

I think the answer falls into the category of convience. Unless you have a decent amount of technical knowledge and mechanical ability. Building a kit my prove to be difficult for some. It is obviously doable, but it depends on you level of skill.

^ Well stated.....I fall into that category, hence the off the shelf product and have a garage install it.

why can't you buy the cooler and parts yourself and put it together at a cheaper price...the oil cooler itself from Setrab is only $328 bracket is 40...so the fittings and hoses and oil filter adapter are over 330?
Setrab Oil Coolers

rogue you can i mean look at modshacks DIY oil cooler thread.. with a case of redline oil and a 36 core oil cooler i ended up paying like 420 dollars total for everything.

i want to...just dont know too much about oil coolers and AN fittings..someone at a body shop told me that you have to drill a drain plug in it to get the oil out...just don't know enough about it to commit...i wish some one would post a DIY of how to set up an oil cooler....

rogue check this thread out... http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ttsa-pics.html

it tells you everything you need to know its not to bad all u have to really fabricate is the bracket. and cut the hoses and then its basically just an oil change

Problem Im having with the Nissan oil cooler is the sandwich adapter isn't thermostatically controlled and Z1 nor I have been able to find an adapter to make it so. Im able to put an lines together. Thats easy so adapting lines to transition isn't a problem if anyone has an input :( ???? I doubt stillen would sell me just thier adapter.

The Mocal unit is available from Bat. Inc. for $95.[/QUOTE]

BAT is a great company. I used to use them for mods when I raced a Ford Fiesta back in the day....don't laugh, I used to smoke the GTI's

There are also thermostats that don't reside in the sandwich plate. You can mount one inline, see here:

http://www.batinc.net/thermos.htmp

Pricing here:

http://97.74.103.94/files/thermos$.p...t1=Get+Pricing

http://www.batinc.net/images/Ot1.GIF http://www.batinc.net/images/thermo3.gif

Thank you!!!!:D

Actually an outboard thermostat is fine, but considering their cost, including more AN fittings and lines, it's probably cheaper to just replace your non-thermostatic plate with a thermo one. Less complexity and potential failure points as well. My Mocal plate was $88

Good evening, I am ready to buy the NISMO, but I am rather unsured about the over heating issue being discussed in many forums. Since I am not a mechanic, thus unable to perform the proper oil cooler installation myself. Do you know of someone who is credible to be able to perform the installation correctly in Northern VA area (prefer not to drive down to GA, although it would be a fun ride for sure).

I don't know I kind of like the DIY kit post That way I can choose what I like and how big or small the lines and heat exchanger are plus the sandwhich plate in the DIY seems to be better.

Does anyone know of a company in Austin that would install the Nissan Motorsports unit for me. I am not a DYI person unfortunately and it appears my dealer has never done one and I would hate to be the first for them if I can help it. Any help would be appreciated

Dustin can you say that it's better for the lines to come out of the top of the cooler plate or the bottom? Both have their advantages so I'm just wondering what's best...

Lines on top

Pros - Cooler is pre-filled, possibly easier to mount
Cons - Harder to completely drain for an oil change?

Lines on Bottom

Pros - Easier to drain for changes
Con - Hard to keep full after installation before engine start

Other then that, your install page was very informative! This will prolly be one of my first few mods. :tup:

Personally I feel that Top Mounted Lines are the best. But this is my personal opinion, and I am sure some will argue differently.

My concern with having the cooler lines on the bottom is as follows:

- Possibility of air being trapped in the cooler

- Issue with fluid draining out of the cooler, ultimately causing a brief moment where the Engine will have no oil flowing from the Oil Filter to the engine itself. (The reason I say this is due to the fact that 100% of the engine's oil will be pumped thru the cooler with either the Nissan Motorsports, Z1, GTM or Stillen Oil Cooler Kits.)

- By locating the lines on the bottom, you run a higher risk of damage to the lines and fittings in the event of you striking debris in the road. There was a post by a member a few months back showing his install with a Setrab Cooler and Bracket. The issue with his setup was that the Cooler Lines were pressing on the Lower Shroud. If he was accidentally struck a shredded tire in the expressway or a small animal at night, it would destroy those lines and draining all the oil in the process.

I do agree that by having the lines on top, you will ineveitably have some oil that will not be changed during a normal service. Depending on the size of the Oil Cooler, this may be up to a Quart.

You must understand though, when you change the oil on ANY vehicle, you will not be able to change 100% of the oil. Oil will be left in passages, galleys, etc. Since the oil feeding the cooler comes directly from the Oil Filter, you should not have any issues with particles passing or settling in it (Given that you are using a quality filter and change your oil regularly).

I hope that this answers you question. Let me know when you get ready to order this thing Chris. I would also recommend an upgraded Tranny Cooler as well since you are getting a Auto car.

Amount of oil remaining in the core and lines:

http://images53.fotki.com/v439/photo...MG_2379-vi.jpg

Wow, I knew it would be quite a bit. I know generally, with a 34 Row Setrad Cooler, when you do the initial install and an oil change. You will be adding ~ 6 qts of oil. After that it is usually ~ 5 qts, which is what the 370Z requires in stock form.

It would be interesting to find a possible drain solution to an oil cooler core. That way you could drop the lower shroud and drain the oil cooler core as well.

LOL...And that's with a 19 row cooler! The solution is fittings on the bottom. All that can be drained by detaching the AN lines at the thermostatic plate...:tup:

From the shop manual:

Drain and refill:
With oil filter change 4.9 (5-1/8, 4-1/4)
Without oil filter change 4.6 (4-7/8, 4)
Dry engine (Overhaul) 5.7 (6, 5)

There is still 0.8 L of oil left in the engine with a filter change? Where is it?

Quick (perhaps stupid) question: the considerably large oil cooler being placed right in front of the radiator, would the radiator cooling performance be affected? Or is the radiator like something that's been over-designed and there's no need to worry?

Coolant temps are not a problem in these cars and the decrease in airflow over the radiator caused by something like an oil cooler will not drastically affect the radiator function. The other thing you should remember is that the hotter the oil, the hotter the coolant. Oil is the hottest fluid running through the system so if you cool that down, you are going to see cooler water temps as well.

I see.. that makes sense. Okay, thanks! I prob will get one right after the winter's over.

Nothing to worry about concerning the radiator. Enough air flows through the oil cooler to where it won't hinder anything. And like christian said, cooler oil temps = cooler coolant temps as well. :)

Stock 300ZX Twin Turbo Oil Cooler
 

Maybe a silly question, but would the stock Z32 TT Oil Cooler work well enough in a Z34?

If you built a custom bracket. It might work. But the stock 300zx oil cooler is designed for ~3/8" (- 6 AN ) line. Plus the stock Calsonic oil cooler small in comparison with a 19 row Setrab. We use a Earl's core for the Z1 Oil Cooler upgrade for the TT 300zx, and have just recently went a step farther to add the more efficient Setrab 19 and 25 row oil coolers.

Most used, Z32 TT oil coolers will have some damage and road debris embedded within them. I really would not recommend installing a used oil cooler core on a brand new engine. Just my .02.

300ZXTT Oil Cooler
 

Thanks for the reply, Dustin.

One of the 1st things I noticed when looking at the Z34 was the oil temp gauge, like my old 280ZXT- if that gauge didn't exist I doubt anyone would care about adding an oil cooler! lol

The Z32TT doesn't have an oil temp gauge, so I can't say if it is sufficient, just thought it would be for an NA like the Z34 since it cools a twin turbo'd car.

Oh well, good to hear your opinion. Thanks again.

Just food for thought on the Z32 Oil Cooler. I have a NA Z32 Slicktop that I run as my DD/Track Car (which is an oxymoron I know). I installed our new Z1 Full Flow Oil Cooler on it with a 25 row Setrab Core which is significantly larger than the OE TT unit.

Doing two of the 20 minute run groups sessions at the Z Nationals track event at Little Talladega Motorsports Park this past weekend, I saw oil temps of about 200 ~ 205. Keep in mind that this is on a NA. I was unable to find anyone at the event with an oil temp gauge on a TT Z32.

Z32 NA Oil Temps w/ Oil Cooler
 

That's good info. 200-205 on an NA on a track is damn goodl

My 280ZX Turbo used to get up to 230 when fully beat on.

Knowing the guys at Z1, I bet one of you will put a gauge on a Z32TT just to find out! Since the TT's turbos are also water cooled, it might be close to your temps.

What was the air temp. at the track that day? Just wondering. I have noticed these temps in 80-85 degrees. When it is around 100 degrees I see 220-225 on my DE events. I have a Nismo 34 row cooler.

The air temp that day was easily in the mid to upper 80s here with little cloud cover to speak of.

Keep in mind though, these temps are on an older 300zx Non Turbo. The oil temps on a newer 370z are going to be higher. The 34 row oil cooler seems to be doing its job if you are only seeing 200-225 @ 100 degree air temp. How long are the run sessions for? An ideal oil temp is really between ~ 185 on the low side and ~200 to 210 on the high side.

In the case of the 370z. Just being able to prevent the engine from going into "Limp mode" and away from the 280 degree mark is ideal. I have heard cases where people all over the country get their Z's to react that temp just in a spirited mountain drive.

Do I need a thermostat?
 

Do I need a thermostat?

I've had my new Nissan Motorsports unit all of one week today and I have noticed a dramatic decrease in oil temps but I also have a new short block so I am under break-in with a 4,000 rpm limitation. I saw temps of 245*F during break-in, on my original engine. Now low 200's.
I've read the entire thread and do not think I need a thermostat for my oil cooler, but I will ask. I live in the California bay area that has only snowed half a dozen times in 30+ years, and it does not last on the ground an hour. Temps range generally from high 40's to mid 80's. Do I need a thermostat? Thank you.