Thanks for the clarification on the 300zx. I didn’t realize that.

My run times sessions are 25 minutes. In the spring when the outside temps are less than 90 degrees it indeed runs in the 185-195 degree range. On those summer days when the temps are over 100 degrees and the track is well over 150 degrees, 225 was the max I have seen.

The cooler is a must as you know if you track the 09-10 Nismo.

There are indeed some situations where people may find that they will not need a thermostat. But keep in mind, a thermostat serves TWO purposes:

1) To help regulate the temp and help maintain a proper operating temp (which is what this thread has been about primarily).

2) To help RAISE the temp of your oil quickly and safely (in a controlled manner). You could run without one, but on some cooler mornings you will have to take it easy on driving longer to ensure your oil temps come up to the proper temperature range. The thermostat restricts flow to the oil cooler when shut, bypassing ~80% of the oil back into the engine. This helps keep the warmth of the oil inside of the engine until a desired temp range is achieved.

My 25R runs 90 degree more than ambient temp. Even though my thermostat is 180F, but I can easily get down to the 150-160 range on a cold morning in the 50s

^^ 1+ Dustin, well written!

Thank you. Sorry for the slow response. +1

So help me out. If I plan to do light track duty and mostly aggressive street driving, will a 19 row oil cooler work? Or should I go for a 24 row?

I think a 19row will more than enough for light track

I order a 19row

Given where you live I'd go for the 24 row.

good catch...didnt see that

and i had not thought about that. Good deal. THX!

Definately go for the 25 row cooler; there would be nothing worse than discovering you could use the larger Setrab core AFTER you already installed the 19 row version.

agreed...

25 is just right for a street/track combo. On the street, I've never seen over 220F with my 25 row Setrab. On the track, max temp was 240F on a hot day and it drops rapidly when you stop pushing the car.

and that is about where I would want them...

One of the most amazing things about running that sized cooler is definately how quickly the temperatures drop once you relax for a few minutes at speed. I have seen it go from 200 to under 180 degrees in less than 5 minutes, but I have yet to see anything over 200 degrees, and that was only sitting in traffic. Once the car is moving, the thing stays very cool.

+1 for 25 Row especially if you are on a budget.

If you were doing planning on doing alot of agressive driving and extensive road racing. I might suggest the 34 Row. But a 25 should work just fine given your intended use.

I can only imagine how well the 34 row must cool, I can't even get my temps to go above 200 degrees pushing the car as hard I could in 80 degree ambient temperature with my 25r cooler.

It's all relative. I have the 72 row series 1 setrab which is the same surface area as the 34 row Setrab. Driving flat out on the track on a hot day I can still get the temp up to 260 and even beyond, but as soon as I back off a little it does drop. On the street it won't go above 200.

Can someone maybe do a DIY oil change including an oil cooler? I would like to completely remove all the oil and replace it with the new stuff every time I change it. What would you guys recommend? I have the Nissan Oil Cooler, well getting it install this week. So just trying to get a heads up. Also If I remove all of the oil will I have to add the 6 quarts or stick to the 5 quarts as normal?

Also should I worry about Nissan installing my Nissan Oil Cooler? This is my situation, Nissan bought mine, will install it and will not affect my warranty. I guess I’m a little paranoid.

If Nissan is installing it and guaranteeing your warranty, you're fine.

As for an oil change, it will make no difference in terms of car care and engine longevity if you empty the cooler as well or not. If you choose to empty the cooler, you just unscrew one of the cooler hoses at the sandwich adapter by the oil filter during your oil change. If you do that, you'll add the extra quart when you replace the oil. If you don't unscrew a hose (empty the cooler), you'll just add the 5 quarts. Make sure you measure using the dipstick as '5' and '6' are ballparks.

Wow, Hey man, thanks for the info. That really helps. Now I can start taking my car to the track at Button Willow. This past week when I went to Sema, on the way there my car went on safe mode, that heat killed me. I’m glad my cooler is going to be installed this week.

Took a look at GTM's HD oil cooler and. It appears rather small...doesn't specify how many rows it is...has the dimensions listed but can't figure out how many rows their oil cooler is....Anyone with some insight please chime in

That is the 19 row Setrab core.

So the 19 row Stillen is out of the picture for agressive street and light track and the 25 row would be better suited for that type of driving. The 34 row would be for all out track driving or if you can budget the higher cost it would also be suited for agressive street and track.

Was it ever concluded as to which oil cooler? Stillen, Nissan or GTM?

Stillen, GTM and Nissan are all using Setrab cores, the main difference is the lines, fittings and adapter plate. You definitely want the best quality lines and fittings you can find, too many failures from badly assembled lines.

^Very true, one reason why I decided on the Stillen cooler is that I could not find any reports of lines or fittings failing which swayed me.

If you are looking for another suitable option for an oil cooler for your 370z aside from the 3 kits listed. Take a few minutes to look over our kit.

We have worked extensively with our manufacturers and customers to create...what I believe...is the most comprehensive oil cooler kits for the 370z.

Z1 Motorsports 370z Oil Cooler Kit

We have attempted to address ALL of the issues we have found with our competitors oil cooler kits and to create a installation manual that is easy to understand and follow thru the entire installation process.

Dustin,

Do you supply -10AN lines or -8? Your web page indicates both sizes, -8AN fittings with -10AN lines.

YEEEEEEEEEEEAAAAHHH....that's definitly my mistake.

The lines and fittings are all -10 AN on the 370z oil cooler kits.

We use a -8 AN on our 300zx kits and I guess I mixed something up in my head when I was creating the pages for both kits.

Sorry about the confusion!

I really like the oil kits that Z1 has to offer...I'll be pulling the trigger on this real soon...The fact that you retain the OEM factory oil filter and the bigger -10 lines are a plus.

Ok guys just got my Nissan oil cooler installed by Raceway Nissan. Well I drove my car from the dealership to Beaumont and drove back to Moreno Valley through San Timoteo Canyon. I drove pretty hard, and the gauge did not move from 180 degrees. When I got back to the MV, I did a lot of stop and go because of the stop lights, it sat at 160 degrees. Is that a normal range? Now every time I push the throttle there is a whistling sound, sounds like air, is that normal as well?

One more thing, in the back of the installation guide it says
Note: This oil cooler is not thermostatically controlled and should be removed or bypass in cold temperatures.
Is this good or bad?

160 really is too cold. You can either try fabricating a shield in front of the cooler which has worked for some, but realistically getting a thermostatic sandwich plate and swapping it out will be the best method.

It bypasses the cooler until the temperature of the oil comes up. Too large of a cooler can overcool the oil as well, and the Nissan cooler is large. Oil that isnt up to temperature is also bad, and should be remedied.

Wow, that’s not too shabby, hey where can I buy this thermostatic sandwich plate?
I will swap it on my next oil change. Thanks for the feedback Josh.

Not to dispute what you posted Josh, but here is what Dustin@Z1 had to say about it when I asked him about the 160-ish temperatures I was seeing:

WOw, thats some good inofrmation. Thanks. Reading these post does help not only me but anyone with these issues. Thansk for the support.

Thanks for posting.

Great info.

We're still pushing moderate temperatures out here in Southern California, and I don't discredit what Z1 is saying in regards to oil temps, but it's such cheap insurance to swap to a thermostatic plate. Moreno Valley can have some cold times, especially in the upcoming months.

The thermo plates begin opening at 160 degrees and are fully open at 180.. it just helps to bypass enough to get the engine temps up and into the optimum range.

All of the cold temp issues are more of a precautionary tale to those who want to completely abuse the vehicle with hard driving when the engine isn't up to temp, and oil needs to be performing at it's best, which it doesn't do at those low temperatures.

Will you have a problem, potentially not.. but as it dips into as freezing of temperatures as we get out here in SoCal, I'd be much happier with a thermostatic plate which will cost you a small fraction of the price youv'e paid for the oil cooler.. but perhaps I'm overly cautious, but definitely would want to make concessions for the cold, especially for those who live in "real" weather areas.. :D

Agree with this and with what Dustin stated. Dustin told me of the way it reads oil too when i asked him. Of course though, I would, as did he and the guys at z1 also, recommend a thermostatic plate to everyone. period.

Well, even with your cooler and the thermostatic plate, it still sits around 160 cruising at night time temperatures. I find that the only time my oil temps ever go above 180 is either sitting in traffic or really pushing the car hard.