This exactly is what I did and I powered down all ECM components by removing and toucing battery positive and negative cable. All my reads look good as of roght now we will see after I drive 50miles or so

This exactly is what I did and I powered down all ECM components by removing and toucing battery positive and negative cable. All my readings look good as of right now we will see after I drive 50miles or so. Hopefully the problem moves to bank 2 and I can just clean the sensor

Not a good idea. It can cause surges/spikes in the system that can kill components. It's cumulative damage, so you can probably get away with doing it that way for a while, but it will eventually bite you.

Instead of shorting the terminals, use a fairly large resistor - 1-10 megohms and ~1 Watt (I'm not sure how much energy the system retains, so 0.25-0.5 W may be big enough). This will allow the system to discharge over a few seconds and avoid the spikes. You can avoid sparks around the battery by placing the resistor between any "always hot" point and ground.

Edit: Or, as others have mentioned, step on the brake. Much easier than using a resistor and accomplishes the same thing. ;)

What's wrong with disconnecting the battery and holding the brake pedal for a bit?

Nothing. This is what most people do to discharge the battery.

Ok well good and bad news. Code stayed off long enough for me to get it through inspection but came back today. My short term fuel trim for bank 2 is at 22percent my short term fuel trim for bank 1 is 3percent....MAF is reading 3.6g/s. Any ideas?

I still think those mismatched sensors might be doing it. Expensive endeavor to replace though.

So you think go with a factory a/f sensor? I can return the Denso one w.o any problems.

It would definitely be the route I would go. You can sometimes find oem ones cheap on ebay, look around first before ordering one at full price.

Do you know what brand O2 is stock?

I just searched for an oem precat passenger or driver side of my model year. I was lucky as hell to find one on Ebay for like $50... Don't expect to find it that cheap though.

Old thread showing a few places where to buy.

http://www.the370z.com/intake-exhaus...n-sensors.html

Ok, well that thread actually states that the stock sensor is a Denso. Which is what I put in. So I'm back to square one. Is there an AirFuel mixture relearn?

Can't find a consistent part number to verify or manufacturer of the part. But this is from 3 companies selling new or used sensors and three drastically different price points :/ Not sure what to recommend or if your Denso is fine at this point.

OEM 2011+ VQ37VHR Front Oxygen (O2) Sensor

11 Nissan 370Z Exhaust Manifold Oxygen Sensor R18883

AIR FUEL RATIO SENSOR - 370Z (Z34) 2009+ :: Nissan Parts, NISMO and Nissan Accessories - Courtesyparts.com

Any updates? I want to go this set up but don’t want to deal with a cell. I have heard so many people with just Stillen G3’s and CBE and getting a cell. Per their website it also states on the G2 description No Check Engine Light (CEL) Problems. But on the G3 description states nothing about a cell which intern means they are aware it can cause a cell. Anyways bro you have already determined it’s not the 02 sensors. Did you end up cleaning the Maf sensors?