Help with battery problem

DR_ · 12-03-2012, 03:29 PM

There are several videos on youtube that show you how to test for parasitic loss.
Automotive Repair: Locating Battery Drain Using Voltage Drop - YouTube

D370z · 12-03-2012, 03:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SouthArk370Z

Don't just start swapping parts yet. If the battery will take a charge, there is no reason to return/replace it.

If you are sure that the alternator is in spec and that the battery is taking a charge, then you need to track down the "ghost" load.

When the car is off, do you see any lights or hear any noises? Ie, is something on that shouldn't be on?

Get an ammeter and insert it in place of fuses until you find an abnormal current draw when the car is off.

Can you feel (an IR temperature monitor will work better/faster, if you have one) any warm spots in the wiring, relays, and control modules? This will be a PITA to check as you will have to remove misc covers and panels to get to everything. For the IPDM-E/R and other parts under the hood, wait until after the engine compartment cools to ambient temperature before probing.

Thanks for reply!
when the car is off there is no noises no lights on, nothing i even locked the car stayed in couple minutes maybe it does something while its locked, nothing happened.

where do i get a ammeter?
Which fuses do i check for any unusual power draw?
thanks for help!

D370z · 12-03-2012, 03:38 PM

Thanks for reply!
when the car is off there is no noises no lights on, nothing i even locked the car stayed in couple minutes maybe it does something while its locked, nothing happened.

where do i get a ammeter?
Which fuses do i check for any unusual power draw?
thanks for help!

SouthArk370Z · 12-03-2012, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by D370z

.. where do i get a ammeter?
Which fuses do i check for any unusual power draw?..

See link in prev post by DR__
heehee. It didn't occur to me that fuses would have enough resistance to easily measure the voltage drop. You can check for parasitic losses with a voltmeter. It has the added benefit of not having to pull fuses and killing power to things like the ECM that require some power at all times.

If your next question is "Where do I get a voltmeter?", or you don't understand the video, get thee to a professional (eg, dealer).

If you made it this far, look in the Owner's Manual or the FSMs for fuse specs and physical locations. I'd start with the fuse block in the footwell, just because it's easy to get to. Then the block connected to the battery terminal. Then the IPDM. Then any other fuses/fusible links I found in the manuals.

DEpointfive0 · 12-03-2012, 04:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by D370z

I bought the car used yes, where would the gps tracker be located if a loan company had it?

It'll be connected to the main wiring harness and most likely connected to the start switch as well.

In my Maxima I had the shop that installed my foglights look into it, and they guy showed me that it was connected to the main wiring harness of the car, it was connected to the window switches and door locks as well as the start button.
He said that it was installed in such a way that they would lock you in, roll the windows off and shut the car down. Uninstalled it in maybe an hour from start to finish?

redline727 · 12-03-2012, 06:56 PM

I don't know the details of the Nissan "comfort access keys" but by any chance do you park in a garage and leave the key in the car? I ask this bc the car has to know when the key is in range so you can lock/unlock/start the car. If you leave the key in the car or in range it can cause the car to constantly recognize the key and be a draw on the battery.

Now I can't say for sure this is true for Nissan but I have seen this at work with BMW comfort access systems and when the key is left in the car it never goes into sleep mode. But batteries on BMW's are wired into many systems and even have to be programmed in newer BMW's so what I'm talking about may not mean anything on our cars but its worth a look. Always start with the easiest most inexpensive things first before you start spending any serious money.

D370z · 12-05-2012, 03:01 PM

Problem solved with the battery!

What happened: I checked fuses and came across the alternator fuse and it was missing.

What caused the problem was the the alternator didnt give power according the its computer because it wasn't connected, it gave overpower to the battery on its own.

Installed new fuse new battery since the other one was overpowered and died after two three hours.

Car runs fine no battery issues again.

Thanks for any ideas you guy gave me.

sonic370 · 12-05-2012, 09:08 PM

kinda makes you wonder where in the heck did the first fuse end up at???
since it wasn't there. anyway glad you got it figured out................

12-03-2012, 03:29 PM	#16 (permalink)
DR_ Track Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Dallas Posts: 981 Drives: Touring/Sport M6 PG Rep Power: 16	There are several videos on youtube that show you how to test for parasitic loss. Automotive Repair: Locating Battery Drain Using Voltage Drop - YouTube SouthArk370Z likes this.

12-03-2012, 06:56 PM	#21 (permalink)
redline727 Base Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: RVA Posts: 203 Drives: '13 MUSTANG GT 6MT Rep Power: 13	I don't know the details of the Nissan "comfort access keys" but by any chance do you park in a garage and leave the key in the car? I ask this bc the car has to know when the key is in range so you can lock/unlock/start the car. If you leave the key in the car or in range it can cause the car to constantly recognize the key and be a draw on the battery. Now I can't say for sure this is true for Nissan but I have seen this at work with BMW comfort access systems and when the key is left in the car it never goes into sleep mode. But batteries on BMW's are wired into many systems and even have to be programmed in newer BMW's so what I'm talking about may not mean anything on our cars but its worth a look. Always start with the easiest most inexpensive things first before you start spending any serious money. __________________ 2013 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 6MT ROUSH intake \| ROUSH axle back \| ROUSH shift knob \| ROUSH coil covers 2009 NISSAN 370Z SOLD

12-05-2012, 09:08 PM	#23 (permalink)
sonic370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2010 Location: Orange Texas Posts: 1,574 Drives: 09 370Z Sports PGK Rep Power: 18	kinda makes you wonder where in the heck did the first fuse end up at??? since it wasn't there. anyway glad you got it figured out................ SouthArk370Z likes this.

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12-03-2012, 03:38 PM	#18 (permalink)
D370z Base Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Portland Posts: 49 Drives: 2009 black 370z Rep Power: 12	Thanks for reply! when the car is off there is no noises no lights on, nothing i even locked the car stayed in couple minutes maybe it does something while its locked, nothing happened. where do i get a ammeter? Which fuses do i check for any unusual power draw? thanks for help!

12-05-2012, 03:01 PM	#22 (permalink)
D370z Base Member Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: Portland Posts: 49 Drives: 2009 black 370z Rep Power: 12	Problem solved with the battery! What happened: I checked fuses and came across the alternator fuse and it was missing. What caused the problem was the the alternator didnt give power according the its computer because it wasn't connected, it gave overpower to the battery on its own. Installed new fuse new battery since the other one was overpowered and died after two three hours. Car runs fine no battery issues again. Thanks for any ideas you guy gave me.