PM'd

Thanks for the advice, it's good to know that it will be an easy fix should it begin to fail and need to be replaced. I'll hold off on the master for now since my warranty just expired this year in April. I should've thought more about that before I jumped on the deal for the car. Oh well, can't do anything about it so no use whining about it. The car is in superb condition so outside of knowing how it was driven by the previous owner (It's an '09 with 26k on the clock when I bought it, so that's a good sign) it seems like a solid car that was very well taken care of. Extremely clean. One last question:

Should I have my mechanic take a look at the clutch disc and all that stuff to look for any excessive wear and tear so that I can at least know it's worn and have a forewarning that something might need replaced soon? Or will that result in an extra labor charge?

I don't see why not. They have to drop the entire transmission to get to the slave in the bell housing. After that, to get to the clutch you just have to undo the bolts on the pressure plate. Shouldn't be more than an extra 30 minutes of labor.

Sometimes i have an issue where like you said, it won't go into 1st or reverse. The shifter won't go in its like its blocked. What i do if it won't go into 1st, is i shift into reverse and roll a few inches, then try 1st again and it works. Same with reverse if it won't let you shift go into reverse, roll forward a bit and then try reverse again. This has always worked for me, but my car rarely does this and I'm not sure if its even the same issue

Makes sense. I'll tell him to take a look while it's out. Thanks :D

Quote:

Originally Posted by fuct (Post 1942042) this is why i asked if you read it zat. i saw the part about re installing the CSC but he had the issue even after the first new CSC was replaced.

Same symptoms but different issues. I still stand by my diagnosis.

If the OP wants to be sure that it's not the CSC, it has to be a FULL system check, including the transmission shift alignment plate, master cylinder, measure pedal stroke (is the master cylinder even tightened properly to the firewall?) clutch pedal limit switches and pedal stroke, is everything straight and lined up? You can go further and check the orifice block in the clutch line, measure the volume of fluid the master cylinder per pedal stroke and bleed the CSC again and again. ..... and bleed it again!

One tip that Joe gave me was to pump the pedal several times before releasing the pressure to move the air bubbles to the top of the bleed line. Then do it again and again and again.

Then after all that you have to ask is it the pressure plate that’s broken?
Is the clutch frayed and catching? What if the pressure plate isn't tightened up enough and therefore not releasing the clutch fully?

I really have a hard time doing internet diagnosis as one never gets the full battery of symptoms or all the issues. I prefer to use all my senses in diagnostic analysis (touch, sound, sight) to determine the problem and try and find the issue.

My recommendation is now to find a excellent clutch shop that knows our clutch systems (it is very common now to find the CSC's on most vehicles now) and do a proper diagnostic check to determine the cause.