Heat soak, what to expect
Registered yesterday, http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...70742023_n.jpg
I noticed low end torque was really crappy. Was this the timing getting dialed back. Oil got to 1 line over 220. |
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FYI, The term Heat Soak, though applicable in theory, is usually used with cars with forced air and intercoolers.
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Happens to my Z/28. I have added a Big block Aluminum radiator, and a Aluminum Hi output water pump to counter the heat. Just as engines run GREAT in the cool morning air, heat takes power away.. |
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I guess my Engine block and heads don't heatsoak...Hmmmm:confused: |
Was your A/C on? I noticed a big difference when it is....
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kinda like houston in the middle of the summer. heat index 130F. lol |
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Good thing I live south of Houston......oh, wait..............:(
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Sorry for using the word heat soak, I come from many turbo toys before the z, even my watercraft. Is 1 notch over 220 on the oil something to worry about
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no. i would start letting off past 240.
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are oil temps staying just a bit cooler with a/c on? or is it just my imagination...
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hummm... usually when a car over heats you'd turn the heater onto full blast.
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ha, shows what i know? maybe i was just driving a bit easier at the time. i see your point. no way im blasting the heat though, oh man!
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ive heard about the a/c thing, but not sure how effective that really is.
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Attachment 49414Its a frosty 97 here
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You're just jealous cuz I can afford a rocket-propelled Z and you can't:gtfo2:. :icon18: |
Living in this hell hole called tx. And having had traditional CAI's on most of my cars. And 4 cars owned in Tx. The best prevention for hotter air from entering the intakes in the summer are the intake hoses. Your car takes a lot longer to bog down than with classic intakes. Power is a little less but more linear when paired with high quality filters like K&N.
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Get an UPREV tune with Fan Control mod and oil cooler. Will help alot.
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My old Altima registered 130 back in 2010 when I went to Death Valley in July (BAD IDEA) Well, we were more stopping by it since it was on our way to Vegas, but man was it scorching. On the plus side, I don't remember seeing any cops out there so if you hit it up in the cooler months could be a good time.
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Oh well I guess I will just wait, and so much for 1 click above 220.... http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-...48950843_n.jpg |
how about an oil cooler? that's not really a performance mod, more of a safety/mechanical maintenance accessory
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i suppose a oil cooler is a performance mod cause you can run your engine a lot harder in the same conditions.
ive not seen my oil temp go up that high. 225F is about where i max out even with spirited driving. but my area only goes up to about 95F max.. |
is it possible to run an inside cab switch to be able to turn the fans on and off and still let the car turn on the fans with a switch hooked up ? i know a guy that did this to an eclipse and it worked great.thoughts ?
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210 is the highest it ever got (stock oil cooler on 2012). thats in 98 degree temps and normal / spirited driving. guess it works, but when its that high it is slightly noticable. the low end power loss i mean. it usually runs at a steady 190
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oil cooler is definitely in my z's future.87 here today.got on it form second.took it to 130 which was rather quick getting there.oil temp went from 210 to about 230-235.i didnt notice any power loss though so idk bout that.oil cooler is a must on this car unless you are going to drive it like grandpa lol.
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take the long rear weather stripping off. snap-off the plastic bracket in the middle that covers the windshield wiper. screw in a oil pan cooler underneath the plastic shroud. Doing this I'm now commonly at 210 cruising on the highway instead of 220 and it also take longer for the engine oil to reach 210F. I'm betting that removing the engine cover will help with cooling. A couple free tweaks that do provide better cooling for free - the oil pan cooler is a trailer side vent that costs 10 bucks. credit given to Modshack and his DIY. Also a Uprev tune will help out a bit but I also find it takes slightly longer for the car to warm up now - could be the test pipes not holding heat like the stock cats though. Of course an oil cooler is the better albeit pricier solution.
*there is still some weather stripping in front of the battery and brake fluid covers to insulate NVH for the hood and since the flow is exiting at the rear of the engine bay it shouldn't have negative affects on aero.* |
^i learned this stuff with my other car.the day i brought it home is was hot out.i immediately removed the engine cover(insulates heat which equals no good in the summer) ,rubber underneath the hood(air definitely gets there now) and the rear rubber,did tb bypasses and i have removed the splash shield that would normally cover the oil pan.i tried running without the middle section you described and removing it slowed down the heat escape from the bottom splash shield it seemed.
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