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Engines don't blow from being rich. 14 is lean which will def blow a motor up. I have a Tt setup and I'd only do this mod if it sounded good. I could just turn the boost knob up for power so these cams if they do work well will mainly be for NA setups. Or built motors that want to retain the vvel and be more efficient with airflow.
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Unless you owned the TT370Z, it's difficult to completely understand the relationship the owner had with GTM, whether the owner was an idiot and went against advice, or it was retuned, and done incorrectly. Only a complete moron would push 14:1 AFR on any vehicle, let alone on a turbo car.
Please just stay on topic as a lot of us can care less about how you feel about GTM and more about your results :) |
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As previously stated, you WANT to run rich. As rich as possible within reasonable limits. Running stoichiometric in general is never wanted, that's just the chemistry talking, and doesn't actually apply all that well in a motor vehicle. I'm sure a race engine (where blowing up is typically expected) could run stoich, but only with some pretty good engine reinforcement.
That said, nothing is more reliable than an NA car at similar build levels. NA-T cars are never a better choice than staying NA. Less parts to break, no possibility of boost leak or surge, less chance of blown gaskets, etc. etc. |
your motor from the factory is the most reliable. opening up and installing these cams will bring the level of reliability down. if reliability is what you seek run things within limits and make sure the person doing the work is competent and make sure you yourself has a level of competency that you know what limits are. A turbo motor at a small amount of boost on a oem motor is more reliable then tearing the heads down and replacing the exaust cams or cams in general.
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Doing cams on a car with VVEL is a big thing. If anything your car will be less reliable than a low-boost build. |
It's very easy to say a boosted car running 500 horsepower is less reliable. A single turbo set up or a twin turbo set up at 3 or 4 pounds of boost will easily run close to if not 400whp very very safe. Boosted cars need extra up keep like regular boost testing and making sure your afr is in limits. I myself is pretty scary about opening the motor. That vid in the beginning definitely shys me away. It pretty much sounds stock.
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Of course its a PITA changing the cams but it is doable and more reliable than running FI. From what I read NavyBoy is taking it to a Nissan dealership, am sure they would've someone skillful enough to open it otherwise they would've turned it down. Good luck, looking forward to the results. |
I've been to a lot of dealerships where they won;t touch modified vehicles, let alone install parts that are endorsed by them. Just because it's being installed by a Nissan dealer doesn't mean it's all going to be peachy. I hope it does, but I wouldn't use that as a rule of measurement. With the exhaust cams, it is advised by JUN to upgrade your valvetrain as well. I see this as just a big of a risk as going FI.
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No valvetrain upgrade needed for this mod, AFAIK from JUN and Concept. |
5 Attachment(s)
Here are some pics of the cams :happydance:
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I know your excited!!!!
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