Nissan 370Z Forum - Clutch problems

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- - Clutch problems (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/49758-clutch-problems.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe@ZSpeed (Post 1549552)

No stock nissan car that I know of come with a Nismo needle pilot. I have had many issues before with the needle pilots and always advise against them. No matter how careful you are with them they are just way to easy to damage during install.

Interesting, making note of this and thanks for the info!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe@ZSpeed (Post 1549501)

I don't think it will hurt the clutch or anything else besides the input shaft were the pilot bearing is riding on it and gouging it up if that is the issue.

I would like some pictures of the disk when it is pulled and before you put it back together, Just to make sure it is not damaged from the previous dragging when the air was in the system.

I will do that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by O&G (Post 1549514)

I'm asking Johnny about it now, I'll call Gabe too and see what he has to say about it. Nismos and Sport share this pilot bushing?

Let me know man.. I don't really wanna drive like this... I don't wanna be a PITA customer (I could tell Gabe was annoyed every time I came back the same day bc pedal was not feeling right) and that is why I've been trying to figure this on my own with the help you guys and Joe...but hey if it was an install issue then I hope Johnny will honor it..

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron (Post 1549574)

I don't wanna be a PITA customer (I could tell Gabe was annoyed every time I came back the same day bc pedal was not feeling right) and that is why I've been trying to figure this on my own with the help you guys and Joe...but hey if it was an install issue then I hope Johnny will honor it..

Of course he will, once a JTran customer you become family, Gabe just started working there and he mite have been giving you a hard time because he knows your friends w/ me, lol. Sounds like it could be the pilot bushing but I don't think your hurting anything by continuing to put miles on it, exspecially since your getting a new tranny and if it is pilot bushing it's going to get replaced regardless. The clutch spines were cleaned according to Gabe but as far as pilot bushing damage, I have no idea. I'd like to drive it myself and feel the issue as I'm sure Johnny will too.

Thanks Justin, appreciate it..Just let me know when to drop by.. I work Sat and get out at 7pm so I think that would be too late. I am off Sun, Mon, Tues.

I'll be there for your clutch install as well.

I'll be in touch, maybe Sat evening or Tuesday, you can always go by the shop Monday, but I'll be in San Antonio that day. Either way we will get it resolved.

So driving back home from work I decided to try something else. While the car was rolling I placed it in neutral and released the clutch. I then tried to engage a gear and it went in smoothly without forcing it! I let the car stop and go for the same gear again and it doesn't go in. So this issue only happens when the car is still. If the drivetrain is rotating then gears engage just fine. Does that tell you guys anything?

Sounds like the disk is getting stuck on the splines or the pilot is grabbing the input shaft.

alright so it just confirms what you concluded before.

Johnny says it just needs adjusting. Everything was cleaned properly before install. Talked to him yesterday about it. Bring it by the shop when you have time. When do you plan on doin your TT install?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using Tapatalk

I'll stop by tomorrow then. I was planning on the second week of march but if things come together I'll have it a week early. Still waiting on the exhaust.

Guys I did a bit more fine tuning today with the adjustment procedure, Made a video for you also

This should resolve any adjustment issues you are having.

Picture below is of the Cruise switch adjustment at the top of the pedal bracket assy, On some cars this may be too far out not allowing the pedal to make a full return to the top and will not allow a full master cylinder stroke if out too far.

Adjust as shown first, This is pretty much mandatory.

http://photos.zspeedperformance.com/...rdsize=788x768

After the cruise switch is adjusted, now adjust the master cylinder rod at the pedal as this video shows, Basically you want to back off the adjustment only until the clutch pedal closes the cruise shut off switch and you have slight play in the clevis/pedal attachment point.

Video

Awesome. Going to forward this to johnny! Thanks Joe

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Ron,

The burnt spot on the flywheel is from slippage under load, Excessive slippage is the only way you can make hot spots like that. It really doesn't look too bad but is definitely not broken in all the way yet.

Be sure to clean the spot on the flywheel off below the "USA" before putting the new clutch in.

Joe I never felt the clutch slipping nor did I drag it while driving. I did not push it in anyway on the 1k+ miles I drove it to break it in. Not once did I launch or redlined the car. The whole point of installing it before the TT was for this not to happen... :( Of course I understand any customer would argue the same points but how I tell it is really what went down.

Once you get it back, how will you be able to tell what went wrong? Any specific test or procedure that can tell if the clutch had a problem?

I appreciate all the help you have provided all along and you getting out of your way to get this figured out. Hopefully we can put this to bed soon!

Just curious ron, when they pulled the pressure plate off were all the bolts torqued pretty evenly? Doubt it was checked if removed by impact, or even if that could cause this issue, but I was just curious.

The thing with kevlar is you can't feel it slip. When kevlar is new it does not hold it's rated TQ much like other clutches, It is just more particular about break in as it wears so long that it takes a lot of miles and use to get it to flatten out and seat in. As you can see it is only seated on the very outer part of the clutch disk. Once it levels off and begins to flatten out is when it will hold all of its rated TQ.

It will only slip a little and you just can't feel it unless you continue to do it then it will go away on you if you do it too much during break in.

I think the issue may be the spot on the flywheel where it looks to be raised up a bit from excessive heat.

The clutch will be checked over and put on a release/clamp load machine to see if everything is working properly. This checks pressure plate lift (release) and clamp load.
These are all checked before they go out as was this one to make sure they work before they go in the car, Something few companies do.

Most likely I will take care of you on this even if it is something you did unknowingly. I may just have you cover the ship on the new kit if we can't find a problem with the clutch itself other than the overheated part.

Joe sent me a full face ceramic to replace the street disk that came with the OFE Stage 4 kit. I absolutely love this disk! Engagements are super smooth, easy to modulate, no judder, etc. I can make smooth fast shifts with no jolt. This car is an absolute joy to drive again.

The advice about bleeding the clutch line from the master made a big difference. The tech even had to unhinge the clutch pedal to further squeeze any air bubbles trapped in the master cylinder. It took about 2 hours to figure it all out (no pressure for awhile). Engagement is perfect, tip in is perfect (barely 0.5" of play, and it has a slightly springy resistance versus no pressure floppy feel). This is what you want! I drove all week and pressure remain the same regardless of temperature or how long I've driven it.

It has been over half a year, and I forgot how much fun this car is to drive. I finally made the 1-2 shift at high revs without grinding.

Overall, no more sticky gears, lurch, clunk, notchiness, etc. Drawback... 3rd gear synchros are starting to fail. Hope to get a new transmission soon.

Thanks, Joe. I'll box up the old disk tonight.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boost_lee (Post 1638635)

We did not check when removing the bolts but I was there when it was being installed (for the most part) and did see them using a torque wrench to set those bolts to factory spec.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Joe@ZSpeed (Post 1638673)

Understood. Can't really ask for more. Other vendors, take note!

Quote:

Originally Posted by DIGItonium (Post 1638719)

So glad you got yours fixed Phuong. I know the feeling, I did not want to drive the car to work every morning because of this. I was not enjoying the Z at all. I can't wait to have mine back with new clutch and tranny!

Definitely don't give up hope. Turbos and smooth shifting with the Z is so much fun even for daily driving. It sounds so good venting bov at half throttle and barely making 1 psi lol. Hopefully Nissan warranties the transmission... I spent touch money dealing with these issues the past several months and the last thing I want to deal with is grinding gears.

Nothing wrong with Rons clutch at all, Not sure what the issue is/was but it is not in the clutch. In our 370Z working perfect