That's what I love about kicker. :rofl2: Always making more than they claim unlike most... :tup: But that's why I wanna drop from the 1200 watt to the 1000 watt, since the subs are only rated for 600 watts rms.

do you have the cvr 10's or 12's?

2004 S10L7's dual 4 ohm. I ordered 2 ohm's but they sent me 4. This is why I've gotta rewire them, so they'll be 2 ohm. :(

Oh ok gotcha. I had the 2 ohm voice coilover ( not soo sure on the name) cvr10's. I had 2 off of the 1000 amp. The feed to the speakers was bridges to raide the ohm to 2. Just take it to best buy and tell them here "Fix it" lol.

:rofl2: My one and only best buy experience was taking a head unit to have put in to replace the stock one. Let's just say the install ended up with me installing the damn thing myself using their tools since I knew more than their 'classroom certified' installer. :rofl2:

Never again. I was feeling lazy, now I know why I only trust my Abby to my own hands. :bowrofl:

I would get the jl hd1200/1 if i were you. You can get 4 ohms. 600 per speaker is a total of 1200 rms between 2 subs, good as gold. Problem is the amp is 1k lol. Good luck cwis.

I'm keeping everything Kicker as I've been impressed with their quality and sound. And as you said before, a Kicker amp doesn't put out only 1000 watts. :tup:

Eventually I'll upgrade the speakers to newer year models too. But just making the weakest link the strongest link one at a time.

No, I do not run a cap. Your car battery is much stronger than any farad cap out there. I repair car-audio electronics and know for sure that caps have little to no affect. The are not a battery, therefore they do not provide reserve power. Their power is capacitative, however this burst/reserve is not meant to offset a chraging system or battery which cannot provide for the system adequately. Yes they act as a filter to ground, and sure they can help with some surge; but thats it. No ordinary person listens to music in burps of 1 second, which is about all that it takes to drain any cap with todays amps. A good battery or two, alternator, and "The Big 3" is better than any cap. Caps when used as desiibed in this thread are not a solution to a problem, and they are not a bandaid either - they are worse. They will not raise your charge or alternator voltage - which is the sole job of your alternator's rectifiers. In fact they will actually put more strain on your charging system. I dont care if its 1, 5, or 20 Farad; its not nearly as much as cold cranking Lead Acid reserve - even for my battery which has apparently seen better years. I'm sorry but Caps are such marketting voodoo. Now I'm sure I'll get some flamage but this is my honest opinion.

My stereo is 1400w clean, old school Soundstream Class A 10.0 and Soundstream MC140. They draw up to about 120A under their current woofer loads being 2x 8" subs running at 1/2 ohm, and a pair of door speakers. These amps are meant for purest detailed SQ but are also strong for some high listening S'Q'L. My MC140 gets hot enough to make your reflexes pull off of it - its working very hard to make great quality sound.

Back on subject: Its been two days since the trickle charge and still no TPMS light. I'm now 75% convinced I need a new car battery to completely satisfy the TPMS light issue.

I've been researching batterys, since I hear a lot of bad reviews on the Optimas from the past two years. Seems the best battery on my list now are ones made by Odyssey. A lot of off-road truckers, marine users, and it would appear any non-Optima junkied car audio enthusiasts like em. Odyssey makes Sears/DieHard Platinum series for $199. They have a 4 year replacement and a 10 year prorate. They are considered deep-cycle and made with Virgin-Lead plates. I can get one local, and in fact I even have a Sears coupon to make the price better.

Has anyone heard of Odyssey / DieHard-Platinum batteries?

Update,

So, my tpms light came up today, but my voltage did drop to 14.0. I'd say theres a chance the trickle top-off may have helped over the past few days, with the chance of it not resolving the problem for longer term.

Anyone know about Odyssey / DieHard-Platinum batteries?

Good batteries. :tup: Guys I 4wheel with. The 3rd Gen. Power Wagon group, all use these batteries with the winches. 15,000 lbs winches abuse batteies like you wouldn't believe. And these hold up better then anything we have tried.

So I ordered 4 new TPMS sensors from amazon that are the same part number as the OEM ones. But for only $120. So we'll see how it goes once these get mounted on my new wheels and get them on the car. Should hopefully get this done next week.

Hey cwis how about the hookup with the link? Need too hook my dad up with some for his z.

:icon17:

TPMS Sensors, bleh. Hey Chris, why even bother? Waste of $120.

In fact, last time I did my routing tire check, the rear tires on the Z were a full 8 lbs below spec...and the fking sensors didn't even indicate. :shakes head:

Here you go: Amazon.com: Orange Electronic SCA01B Infiniti/Nissan Replacement Tire Pressure Sensor: Automotive

:tiphat:

I have mine at 40psi... they shouldn't be registering low... But I've tried all different pressures and had them synced multiple times... unless all my tires have equal pressure leaks, then something bigger is wrong than just tire pressure drops... :ugh2: