After charging the car battery with a 1A trickle over night for about 10 hours, the battery measured 13.3v with my Fluke meter. Car running, it was at first measuring 14.5 but after about an hour of stop & go traffic the voltage dropped to 14.2. This is with AC on, but I left my stereo off for the maiden voyage.

I cannot be 100% convinced, BUT... The TPMS light STAYED OFF this morning after last night's charge. I'm maybe 50% convinced its the battery at this point, and will report as-it-goes.


*If it comes down to needing a new battery, what would be better than either an Optima Yelow or Red top?

I thought Yellow tops were the better battery but I could be wrong.

The difference between the two is the Red top provides a better cranking charge and longer storage. The Yellow top provides a higher level of power constantly, hence why it's better for mobile audio/video.

It's not that one's 'better' than the other, it's just one is specified for one application, and the other for a different one.

If you're somewhere in a colder climate and store your Z for the winter, and don't care about stereo's, the Red top would be better for you.

If you're anywhere else, and or have a large aftermarket stereo installed, the Yellow top will be for you.

The tpms system registers tire pressures after driving consistantly over 25mph for x amount of time. Look it up in your owners manual under the tpms section. Also I have heard that if your windows are tinted it interfears with your tpms system (personally think its a bogus statement, all of my cars were tinted and no tpms issues). My dads 350 just blew 3 sensors and they are the originals. 06 350z with 178000ish miles just a fyi. If it is extremely cold where your car sits it may have had bad batteries in your tpms sensor? mhop

No, my windows are not tinted.... but, isnt the concern over tinting because of tint adding aluminum?? If so, perhaps my sound deadening material may be doing the same effect. From the trunk, hatch, under seats, to door panels all have it installed. Its Dynamat eXtreme made of Butyl rubber with an aluminum backing. FWIW it cuts the road noise, increases stereo efficiency, and is worth the pain of installed just for the improved quality/comfort of ride.

Since topping off my battery 2 nights ago I have not seen the TPMS light come on. My bat gauge has also stayed at or above 14v. I am also only cautiously using my car stereo as not to put excessive drain on the battery.

I'm gonna give it more time until I am 100% convinced I need a new car battery, but for now I'm about 60% convinced.



Has anyone actually changed their car battery yet in their 370z? These cars being still so new, I imagine not too many.

Does anyone know if the TPMS sensors in the 370z are the "direct" or "indirect" type?

I can't see the main car battery causing this issue... But I'm not a certified Nissan mechanic either.

Edit - must be the "direct" type. Just found the indirect type is not valid in the US.

i was watching my battery on the ride home last night and it stayed right around 13 - 12.8v, as always my TPMS light came on after about 12-15 minutes of driving. Maybe i will try the trickle charge as well and see if it has any effect.

You should check your alternator if your battery is getting that low when driving. You should be seeing 14v + while the engine is running. If you have a multimeter check the voltage right at the alternator... Also double check the connections on your battery terminals, make sure everything is clean and tight.

Unclemeaty, How many watts is your stereo and do you have a capacitor kit? The sound deadening might have something to do with it....I had taken the tire sensors off in my 08 mustang and mounted them on the spare tire in the trunk. The light flashed the same as yours did. When I put the tire in the back seat it didn't flash. I think its because of the distance to the tpms box, in your case with the added interfearance of the sound deadening material it could slimly possibly be the case. But if you have a warranty on your battery than I would go get it replaced or serviced.

I was looking at getting a Yellow top at some point, but based on their cost and mine still being relatively new, I hadn't bothered with it yet. I've never seen my voltmeter drop below 14v unless it's a very heavy bass song. I have a 1200 watt amp and a 1.2 farad cap, however I'll be swapping the amp to a newer model and removing the cap from the system as soon as I get new cable to rewire the subs. Should make the system even cleaner.

But as for TPMS, I was looking on eBay and found a set of 4 Z TPMS for $217. Anyone seen a better price so far? I'm getting new wheels put on soon and want 4 OEM sensors so they'll be covered under warranty if for some reason it still won't work so they can't say it's from me using aftermarket sensors. :icon17:

Hey chris you should upgrade to a 2 farad cap for that much wattage being used. The reason your volt meter is dropping that much on a heavy base is because its depleting your capacitor plus drawing off the battery, bigger cap= more storage and less draw off the battery= smoother play...imho upgrade cap and amp. Also that is a good price on the sensors being that they are 115 a pop at the dealership. I would watch them like a hawk when they change them and then keep the old ones just incase.

I'm upgrading the amp, but probably going to remove the cap from the system since newer amps (my old one is from 04) are much more efficient with creating power = less draw. Or at least that's what they claim... :icon17: We'll see.

Well here's a link to the eBay sale for anyone else that's interested...

2007-2011 NISSAN INFINITY TPMS Tire Pressure Sensor 4pc | eBay

I understand the claim for creating power but when you have a surge in any electrical circuit it will be noticeable ( like with heavy bass music), the cap acts as a filter. Good luck with your experiment, I bet top dollar you throw the cap back on.

I need to get a new(er) cap anyways. The one I have is 1.2 farad. Looking to go from a 1200 watt amp to a 1000 watt, so thinking I might still be good. The cap itself has been holding strong (also from 04). But might update everything based on almost 10 years of electronic progress...

Heres the Amp: Kicker IX1000.1 (10IX1000.1) Mono Class D Car Amplifier

Does anyone have experience with the cap brands out there... Not too much to choose from off hand without knowing where to turn...

Just to let you know the kicker 1000 is actually a 1998 watt amp. they are certified higher than the model number on the amp. I had the 1000 and the 250 or 500 for the doors. I had a power technique 2 farad cap with a 200 amp kicker fuse.