Clearing oil cooler @ change time w/ compressed air?

[MattP725]

My idea is to setup a fitting that will hook to my air compressor so that I can attach it to one of the 10 -an lines on the sandwhich plate and blow the excess oil out of the cooler.

Does anyone know of any way to fit a compressor hose adapter to a 10an line?

I feel like this would be one of the easiest ways to change the cooler oil without removing the bumper/cooler itself.

[SPOHN]

I don't feel like this is a good idea at all. Just removing the clip and cooler then drain it right. This is just not a shortcut to take. When modding a car it takes time to maintain it also. That's one of the joys.

[MattP725]

Why would you consider this a detrimental shortcut? Vacuuming or blowing out lines is a common strategy in the auto industry. Our pumps produce more
Psi than my air compressor does on standard setting. It should hold without issue and since it is oilless it won't contaminate anything either.

[Dark Sarcasm]

take out the drain plug and start the engine. It'll blow all the oil out of the system in a matter of minutes.

[SPOHN]

Originally Posted by MattP725

Why would you consider this a detrimental shortcut? Vacuuming or blowing out lines is a common strategy in the auto industry. Our pumps produce more
Psi than my air compressor does on standard setting. It should hold without issue and since it is oilless it won't contaminate anything either.

Not saying detrimental. I just don't like the idea of it. Then you have another fitting that could cause other issues (leaking or such). All in all it's not that hard to remove the cooler drain it out, inspect it, and clean the fins. This my opinion and it doesn't mean much either.

[Trips]

Hey, It's your engine and if you're to lazy to do a simple oil change?
Then go ahead and blow out your oil. Lol

[Guard Dad]

I don't see it as lazy at all. He's just trying to do a complete oil change efficiently, no harm in seeing if a better option for emptying the oil cooler if available.

[XwChriswX]

There's nothing wrong with having oil left over in your cooler anyways when you do an oil change? It will eventually get completely mixed in and diluted with the new oil... And correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't it said somewhere that there is some benefit to leaving a bit of old oil in anyways to help condition the new oil??

Not to mention your lines are still full and the cooler is full so on the following start you don't have to worry about any loss in pressure due to air in the system or a dry crank.

If you really want to go through the hassle of doing all that extra work, by all means knock yourself out. But If you're going through all that trouble anyways, what's wrong with undoing 2 lines, 4 screws and dumping the cooler the good old fashioned way and refilling it??

[MattP725]

Half are saying it is too much work and the other half are saying too little.

I have a series 9 Setrab and it isn't removable without pulling the bumper... is it doable, of course... would I rather avoid it, yes.

I really am not keen on leaving the old oil in there regardless of how diluted it will be... just not my thing.

There is a difference between being lazy and being efficient... you can change your oil more effectively by dropping the oil pan every 3k miles to make sure you get all the sediment and old sludge off the bottom but no one does that because it is seen as unnecessary additional time and labor. I just don't get how someone would assume that it is "lazy" to want to drain an oil cooler without pulling the bumper... to me the lazy ones are the ones that say "it will just eventually mix its way out of the system".

[cossie1600]

wow super anal

[MattP725]

Originally Posted by cossie1600

wow super anal

How so?

[roy'sz]

Originally Posted by MattP725

My idea is to setup a fitting that will hook to my air compressor so that I can attach it to one of the 10 -an lines on the sandwhich plate and blow the excess oil out of the cooler.

Does anyone know of any way to fit a compressor hose adapter to a 10an line?

I feel like this would be one of the easiest ways to change the cooler oil without removing the bumper/cooler itself.

I thought of that before but stuck with the idea of leaving the almost quart in the cooler. too bad they don't have a petcock design drain plug so that i could drain of exactly one quart and then add one after starting and warming up to get a more dilute.

Also I have a ridgid 250psi (90psi constant off of pump) 2 tank 5 gallon compressor and realized that wouldn't be a good idea due to moisture build up. but it was a interesting and well though idea just not worth the risk.

[MattP725]

I think my next best bet is a fluid transfer pump to see if that will work.

I agree on the drain idea... seems silly that they woudn't at least offer an option on any model. At least then you would only need to pull off the splash guard to access it.

[cossie1600]

I am not sure if the benefit of doing all the work is worth it. If it makes you feel better, I guess. You keep pulling the fittings off the oil cooler lines, you are just asking for leaks.

Manufactures don't offer it because it is a waste of time and it just becomes another source of possible leaks.

[MattP725]

Originally Posted by cossie1600

I am not sure if the benefit of doing all the work is worth it. If it makes you feel better, I guess. You keep pulling the fittings off the oil cooler lines, you are just asking for leaks.

Manufactures don't offer it because it is a waste of time and it just becomes another source of possible leaks.

We are on a different page here... the line is not getting removed from the fitting, I agree that is a waste and a dangerous way to stretch the end... I am talking about unscrewing the 10an fitting from the mocal plate and either using a pump or compressor to suck/blow remaining oil out of the cooler.

It would be a quick unscrew from the mocal to the compressor/vaccuum. Wouldn't take more than 15-20 seconds max.