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-   -   sport mode. (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/38083-sport-mode.html)

jayl 06-15-2011 01:06 PM

sport mode.
 
HI,

I am sorry if this is not the right place for this question... i remember reading about the s-mode button to turn it off needs to be pressed for 2 seconds or so... is this the case ? also to turn on sport mode would it be the same?

I have a base model and am trying to use the s-mode switch with my voice activation button from the NAV (kenwood 9960)

I was told they are both momentary switch so hoping it should work..

Thanks,

batman_4 06-15-2011 01:14 PM

judging from the pic on your avatar you don't seem to have the 'Sport' rims.....from what i recall you need to have the 'Sport Package' to get "S-Mode".

aside from that if you do have that package then to take off s-mode will take about 1-2secs of holding the button down and same for turning it back on.

WhiskeyHotel 06-15-2011 01:16 PM

No, a simple push and release turns it on.

jayl 06-15-2011 01:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by batman_4 (Post 1170884)
judging from the pic on your avatar you don't seem to have the 'Sport' rims.....from what i recall you need to have the 'Sport Package' to get "S-Mode".

aside from that if you do have that package then to take off s-mode will take about 1-2secs of holding the button down and same for turning it back on.

I do not have sport mode... I am only wanting to use the sport mode switch in place of the dummy that is in the base models... to activate voice command on my NAV.

I have purchased the s-mode switch now need to be sure when i try to connect it again to the wires from the voice activation that when i test i am doing the test right..

jayl 06-15-2011 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhiskeyHotel (Post 1170889)
No, a simple push and release turns it on.

thanks... I had tried to connect the voice activation wires to pin's 2 and 3 on the s-mode switch (as per wiring diagrams) but didnt get the smode to kick the voice activation on... so I was wondering if needed to hold down the s-mode for a split second longer ...

DIGItonium 06-15-2011 02:52 PM

You're just using the bare switch, correct? Do you have a multimeter? Set it to continuity test or ohm meter with buzzer. Probe a couple of pins and press the switch. If you hear it beep when the switch is pushed down, then those are the pins to use.

Test the voice activation by momentarily connecting the two wires together. If it works, then wire up the switch.

The other pin on the switch is the back light.

jayl 06-15-2011 03:32 PM

yes just trying to use the bare switch just to integrate the nav more in the car!

ok i can do the multimeter test however...

i did try the voice activation by momentarily connecting the 2 wires together.. but no luck that didnt seem to work... I wasnt sure if it would or not...

WhiskeyHotel 06-15-2011 05:02 PM

Hmmm. If shorting the two leads together didn't work, more research on the Kenwood side is in order. What exactly is the head unit expecting to see on those two leads? Maybe not just a short....?

jayl 06-15-2011 07:04 PM

Unfortunately I have no idea of that.... there was a small circuit board inside the Kenwood voice activation switch on to which the wires were soldered .......

WhiskeyHotel 06-15-2011 09:13 PM

So you just de-soldered the wires and routed them to the s-mode switch? You probably need to keep the circuit board in your new circuit. That may be an issue because the original switch is likely to be mounted to the board itself.

DIGItonium 06-15-2011 11:47 PM

Can you post pictures of the circuit board and the contacts of the original switch on the board. Perhaps you can wire the S-Mode switch in place of the original switch and solder the wires back to its original place.

jayl 06-16-2011 09:39 AM

sure, I will post pic's when I get home tonight... should have carried the switch with me :ughdance:

jayl 06-16-2011 09:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by WhiskeyHotel (Post 1171983)
So you just de-soldered the wires and routed them to the s-mode switch? You probably need to keep the circuit board in your new circuit. That may be an issue because the original switch is likely to be mounted to the board itself.

well kinda de-solvered.. I cut the wire 10 inches from where it was soldered on the circuit board...

jayl 06-16-2011 09:40 AM

thanks guys... seems like there is hope now for making this work

jayl 06-16-2011 07:16 PM

1 Attachment(s)
here it is....

DIGItonium 06-17-2011 07:09 AM

Looks like a PCB with tactile switch, but just 2 wires coming out? You may want to test the wires again or even solder it back on. Also ring out the two pins to double check the correct switch pins.

jayl 06-17-2011 10:11 AM

Thanks; What is the difference between a tactile sw vs a momentary sw?

What do you mean by ?
Quote:

You may want to test the wires again or even solder it back on.
Are you talking about shorting the wires ? or soldering them back to the NAV's switch?

ALso what do you mean by the below?
Quote:

Also ring out the two pins to double check the correct switch pins.
Thanks,

jayl 06-17-2011 10:17 AM

http://www.the370z.com/attachments/e...616_195228.jpg

Also in the switch i m not sure if you got to enlarge the image to see it.. but

there is a small tactile(?) button that is soldered to the board.. and then 2 wires that are soldered on the board that connect to the wire from the back of the NAV..

DIGItonium 06-17-2011 12:22 PM

Hard to type on phone haha.

The navigation switch cable goes to the PCB, and it is 2 wire, right? Momentarily "short " these wires to see if head unit responds.

The s-mode switch should have more than 2 pins. You need to figure out which 2 pins is the actual switch. The other pin lights up the backlight LED.

jayl 06-17-2011 01:06 PM

ok will try this when i can open the car again.. prolly tomorrow or sunday

Thanks,

DIGItonium 06-18-2011 10:39 AM

Oh BTW, forgot to elaborate. The tactile switch is the one described on the PCB, and the momentary is like the S-Mode switch. It pretty much does the same thing, but in a different form.

Hope you get it squared.

jayl 06-18-2011 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DIGItonium (Post 1176622)
Oh BTW, forgot to elaborate. The tactile switch is the one described on the PCB, and the momentary is like the S-Mode switch. It pretty much does the same thing, but in a different form.

Hope you get it squared.

I am going downstairs now... to try this again...

- first will try to short the wires to see if the NAV responds?
if this works I will try to connect the s-mode switch to those wires... from the back of the NAV... to pins 2/3...

What do you suggest if the NAV does not respond when I short the wires?

Thanks,
jay

jayl 06-18-2011 02:47 PM

ok, this might be BAD :(

when I tried to short the wires... nothing happens .... but it gets worse...

I spliced the wires that I had cut going from the back of the NAV to the PTT switch.. (the pcb from the picture attached earlier..)

and tried to use that switch and still nothing... not sure what I killed in this process

please help.

WhiskeyHotel 06-18-2011 04:06 PM

Is there a setting in the head unit to enable voice command? Does the cable plug in?

jayl 06-18-2011 04:16 PM

There is no setting that I am aware of... plug and play..... the pin is a 3.5 mm jack that plugs into the back of the HU....

DIGItonium 06-18-2011 05:32 PM

It's just a sensing wire. I don't think you broke anything, unless you actually fed power to the 3.5mm jack. In other words, one wire has an internal pull up when "floating," and the other wire is ground.

Did it work before?

Get a multi-meter and measure voltage. Plug the black probe to chassis ground. Probe each wire. You should get some sort of voltage on one wire, and 0V on the other wire (assuming it's ground). If you get nothing on both wire, then it might be the 3.5mm cable (looks like headphone cable). Do a continuity check from the 3.5mm plug to the ends of the wire to make sure the cable is good.

jayl 06-18-2011 05:36 PM

yup it used to work before...

so one of the wires on the PTT is ground?

DIGItonium 06-19-2011 12:56 AM

Its just an assumption since I have not worked on it. Check the 3.5mm is still good by doing a continuity check. Then plug it back in and measure voltage at the wire end. Gotta make sure the navigation switch is working before continuing the mod.

jayl 06-20-2011 12:44 AM

I did a continuity test between the 3.5 MM pin and the wires on the other end of it...

but no luck...

so I have one end is the pin and the other end are 2 wires.. I tried a few combinations to do the continuity test but it failed...

Any suggestions on how I should a continuity test with 3 ends (2 wires on one end + the end where the 3.5 mm pin is..)

Can i get a mono 3.5 MM pin from radio shack and do some test with it.. then connect it to the S-more switch and then connect it to the back of the kenwood ?

something like : 2.5mm Mono Male to 3.5mm Stereo Female Adapter - Cables To Go

Thanks,
Jay

jayl 06-20-2011 10:50 AM

figured it out with the help of a co-worker!! the wires have a coating on them so the current was not flowing!!

now my question is..

I have 2 other wires/ pins that are from the back of the s-mode button, 1 is for ground and the other is for illumination...

do I need to connect the ground? I do plan to tap the illumination into the hazard light sw...or would there be another place where I can top the illumination from?

Also is the ground required for this switch? would it be better to have? since the kenwood switch did not have it?

Also is there a non -trail -n error approach to figure out which one is ground and which is illumination?

Thanks,
Jay

WhiskeyHotel 06-20-2011 11:40 AM

The ground is required for the light in the switch to work. You can use a voltmeter to find the hot lead.

jayl 06-20-2011 11:45 AM

ok thanks, do you think its best to tap into the hazzard light sw? for the ground / illumination? or can i tap in elsewhere?

DIGItonium 06-20-2011 02:20 PM

For ground, you can tap anywhere that is convenient. The wire bundle definitely has a ground and illumination wire if you want to make it clean.

jayl 06-20-2011 02:28 PM

thanks, is there an easy way to remove the shift boot w/out damaging it? will be much easier to work with the wires with the shiftboot off or flipped upside down...

WhiskeyHotel 06-20-2011 03:13 PM

Try this:
DIY Shift boot install

jayl 06-20-2011 03:17 PM

thanks, i should i have search for it! was hoping it would be easier.. I think I will try to work with how much clearance I get w/out removing the shift boot.

jayl 06-21-2011 07:56 PM

is the sport mode switch always illuminated?

Also if I use the illumination from the hazard light sw and the ground from it... should this work? or do I need to ground it to a different ground?

Thanks,

WhiskeyHotel 06-21-2011 08:21 PM

No- only when the lights are switched on. You should be fine with hot and ground from the hazard switch.

jayl 06-22-2011 09:57 AM

thanks everyone got it to work.. I will post pics in the audio section and rep's for ppl that helped me with this.

jayl 06-22-2011 10:39 AM

here is the link to the pictures and finished product :)

http://www.the370z.com/audio-video/3...de-switch.html

Thanks again for all the help.


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