sport mode.
HI,
I am sorry if this is not the right place for this question... i remember reading about the s-mode button to turn it off needs to be pressed for 2 seconds or so... is this the case ? also to turn on sport mode would it be the same? I have a base model and am trying to use the s-mode switch with my voice activation button from the NAV (kenwood 9960) I was told they are both momentary switch so hoping it should work.. Thanks, |
judging from the pic on your avatar you don't seem to have the 'Sport' rims.....from what i recall you need to have the 'Sport Package' to get "S-Mode".
aside from that if you do have that package then to take off s-mode will take about 1-2secs of holding the button down and same for turning it back on. |
No, a simple push and release turns it on.
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I have purchased the s-mode switch now need to be sure when i try to connect it again to the wires from the voice activation that when i test i am doing the test right.. |
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You're just using the bare switch, correct? Do you have a multimeter? Set it to continuity test or ohm meter with buzzer. Probe a couple of pins and press the switch. If you hear it beep when the switch is pushed down, then those are the pins to use.
Test the voice activation by momentarily connecting the two wires together. If it works, then wire up the switch. The other pin on the switch is the back light. |
yes just trying to use the bare switch just to integrate the nav more in the car!
ok i can do the multimeter test however... i did try the voice activation by momentarily connecting the 2 wires together.. but no luck that didnt seem to work... I wasnt sure if it would or not... |
Hmmm. If shorting the two leads together didn't work, more research on the Kenwood side is in order. What exactly is the head unit expecting to see on those two leads? Maybe not just a short....?
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Unfortunately I have no idea of that.... there was a small circuit board inside the Kenwood voice activation switch on to which the wires were soldered .......
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So you just de-soldered the wires and routed them to the s-mode switch? You probably need to keep the circuit board in your new circuit. That may be an issue because the original switch is likely to be mounted to the board itself.
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Can you post pictures of the circuit board and the contacts of the original switch on the board. Perhaps you can wire the S-Mode switch in place of the original switch and solder the wires back to its original place.
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sure, I will post pic's when I get home tonight... should have carried the switch with me :ughdance:
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thanks guys... seems like there is hope now for making this work
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1 Attachment(s)
here it is....
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Looks like a PCB with tactile switch, but just 2 wires coming out? You may want to test the wires again or even solder it back on. Also ring out the two pins to double check the correct switch pins.
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Thanks; What is the difference between a tactile sw vs a momentary sw?
What do you mean by ? Quote:
ALso what do you mean by the below? Quote:
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http://www.the370z.com/attachments/e...616_195228.jpg
Also in the switch i m not sure if you got to enlarge the image to see it.. but there is a small tactile(?) button that is soldered to the board.. and then 2 wires that are soldered on the board that connect to the wire from the back of the NAV.. |
Hard to type on phone haha.
The navigation switch cable goes to the PCB, and it is 2 wire, right? Momentarily "short " these wires to see if head unit responds. The s-mode switch should have more than 2 pins. You need to figure out which 2 pins is the actual switch. The other pin lights up the backlight LED. |
ok will try this when i can open the car again.. prolly tomorrow or sunday
Thanks, |
Oh BTW, forgot to elaborate. The tactile switch is the one described on the PCB, and the momentary is like the S-Mode switch. It pretty much does the same thing, but in a different form.
Hope you get it squared. |
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- first will try to short the wires to see if the NAV responds? if this works I will try to connect the s-mode switch to those wires... from the back of the NAV... to pins 2/3... What do you suggest if the NAV does not respond when I short the wires? Thanks, jay |
ok, this might be BAD :(
when I tried to short the wires... nothing happens .... but it gets worse... I spliced the wires that I had cut going from the back of the NAV to the PTT switch.. (the pcb from the picture attached earlier..) and tried to use that switch and still nothing... not sure what I killed in this process please help. |
Is there a setting in the head unit to enable voice command? Does the cable plug in?
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There is no setting that I am aware of... plug and play..... the pin is a 3.5 mm jack that plugs into the back of the HU....
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It's just a sensing wire. I don't think you broke anything, unless you actually fed power to the 3.5mm jack. In other words, one wire has an internal pull up when "floating," and the other wire is ground.
Did it work before? Get a multi-meter and measure voltage. Plug the black probe to chassis ground. Probe each wire. You should get some sort of voltage on one wire, and 0V on the other wire (assuming it's ground). If you get nothing on both wire, then it might be the 3.5mm cable (looks like headphone cable). Do a continuity check from the 3.5mm plug to the ends of the wire to make sure the cable is good. |
yup it used to work before...
so one of the wires on the PTT is ground? |
Its just an assumption since I have not worked on it. Check the 3.5mm is still good by doing a continuity check. Then plug it back in and measure voltage at the wire end. Gotta make sure the navigation switch is working before continuing the mod.
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I did a continuity test between the 3.5 MM pin and the wires on the other end of it...
but no luck... so I have one end is the pin and the other end are 2 wires.. I tried a few combinations to do the continuity test but it failed... Any suggestions on how I should a continuity test with 3 ends (2 wires on one end + the end where the 3.5 mm pin is..) Can i get a mono 3.5 MM pin from radio shack and do some test with it.. then connect it to the S-more switch and then connect it to the back of the kenwood ? something like : 2.5mm Mono Male to 3.5mm Stereo Female Adapter - Cables To Go Thanks, Jay |
figured it out with the help of a co-worker!! the wires have a coating on them so the current was not flowing!!
now my question is.. I have 2 other wires/ pins that are from the back of the s-mode button, 1 is for ground and the other is for illumination... do I need to connect the ground? I do plan to tap the illumination into the hazard light sw...or would there be another place where I can top the illumination from? Also is the ground required for this switch? would it be better to have? since the kenwood switch did not have it? Also is there a non -trail -n error approach to figure out which one is ground and which is illumination? Thanks, Jay |
The ground is required for the light in the switch to work. You can use a voltmeter to find the hot lead.
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ok thanks, do you think its best to tap into the hazzard light sw? for the ground / illumination? or can i tap in elsewhere?
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For ground, you can tap anywhere that is convenient. The wire bundle definitely has a ground and illumination wire if you want to make it clean.
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thanks, is there an easy way to remove the shift boot w/out damaging it? will be much easier to work with the wires with the shiftboot off or flipped upside down...
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Try this:
DIY Shift boot install |
thanks, i should i have search for it! was hoping it would be easier.. I think I will try to work with how much clearance I get w/out removing the shift boot.
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is the sport mode switch always illuminated?
Also if I use the illumination from the hazard light sw and the ground from it... should this work? or do I need to ground it to a different ground? Thanks, |
No- only when the lights are switched on. You should be fine with hot and ground from the hazard switch.
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thanks everyone got it to work.. I will post pics in the audio section and rep's for ppl that helped me with this.
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here is the link to the pictures and finished product :)
http://www.the370z.com/audio-video/3...de-switch.html Thanks again for all the help. |
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