decreased power loss of power

earthbound · 08-24-2019, 02:16 PM

Hello , in regards to this issue,
I'm experiencing an issue like this,
When I accelerate over 3500, rpm power cuts out, totally to the engine, unail the rvs are below 3000 rpm s,then it will run again.freaked me out to !! In traffic.
I reset or have the car in sport mode it performs fine.
At times it will come out of sport mode without activating the switch ! WTF !!
I was wondering what sensory changed
Kaine z34
Or does any one have any insight
Lanster

earthbound · 08-25-2019, 11:25 AM

Hello,
I'm experiencing power loss, when accelerating, over 3500 rpm ,
Has anyone had this problem , ambient air temp is not an issue,this is also happening when the car is not in sport mode, when in sport mode it's fine, performs properly

SouthArk370Z · 08-25-2019, 06:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by earthbound

... happening when the car is not in sport mode, when in sport mode it's fine, performs properly

That's weird. I hope someone will jump in and help you out.

In the meantime, you might try cleaning the MAFs if you haven't done so recently. Very easy job - requires a screwdriver, some MAF cleaner, and about 15 minutes. Several threads on this site with instructions. Probably not your problem but, if it's been 9-10 years since they were clean, it needs to be done.

JARblue · 08-25-2019, 06:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by earthbound

this is also happening when the car is not in sport mode, when in sport mode it's fine, performs properly

What is "sport" mode? You mean when SRM is on? Or what? The Z doesn't have a separate sport mode - it's always in sports mode

VaGntlmn · 08-25-2019, 06:42 PM

Probably not related, but I'll throw it into the hat.

Many years ago, I replace the stock air intakes with K&N Typhoons.
I screwed up the install.
I chipped off a very small piece of rubber on one of the vacuum hoses, which traveled up and lodged in the throttle body(?). Took it 2 weeks to materialize, but I was driving down the road when everything died.
Would barely hold idle, but wouldn't do much more than that.
That's my only suggestion.
Good luck.

JARblue · 08-25-2019, 06:49 PM

Yikes! That's a bit of a worst case scenario there

Definitely possible although there are a lot of other options that are probably more likely to have occurred.

Cleaning the MAFs is a good opportunity to go ahead and clean the TBs also (I do both about every 20-25K miles - overkill but too cheap and easy not to do). Taking them off for cleaning (super easy) and a quick inspection would definitely rule out something getting stuck in the butterfly valve.

$ully · 10-28-2019, 07:10 PM

Greets Simota1

I'm glad the issue seems to have resolved itself for you. I've experienced the same thing with my Z roadster. Scared the poop outta me the first time. lol It was a low fuel hard acceleration on an highway exit type thing. I was right at the apex in 3rd running close to 4500 rpm and when I stomped on it to shoot though the apex .... nuthing, nada, zilch. I hit the clutch and the engine died. So I released the clutch again and the engine fired but still no throttle response. By then I was on level roadway and it stumbled and finally caught. The low fuel light wasn't on before I hit the exit but it came on while I was pulling G's on the ramp then went out again on the level roadway. I've also had my Z go into "limp mode" when it is first fired up usually on a cool morning. I live out in a rural area, so once I leave the small village proper the max speed changes from 40k to 90k and my next stop sign is 8 k away. The first time it happened I brought it up to 90k and thought maybe it needed to warmup. Nope, it seemed like it would only accept input from the peddle for the first few millimeters. Anything after that it would not respond. Once I reached the stop sign I shut the car off, then back on. It ran normally after that. It has only done this twice and the highway exit thing once.

I have an OBD2 transmitter and have a few apps on my phone that allow me to check a host of things and to modify some of the settings.

I like one called "car scanner". There are several choices carbit, torque, in car doc, car repair, and most likely dozens of others. Most have a free demo that allows you to see most things and some even allow you to do modifications.

08-25-2019, 06:42 PM	#95 (permalink)
VaGntlmn Enthusiast Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: Centreville, Va Age: 63 Posts: 377 Drives: '10 Tour/Sport, 6MT Rep Power: 14	Probably not related, but I'll throw it into the hat. Many years ago, I replace the stock air intakes with K&N Typhoons. I screwed up the install. I chipped off a very small piece of rubber on one of the vacuum hoses, which traveled up and lodged in the throttle body(?). Took it 2 weeks to materialize, but I was driving down the road when everything died. Would barely hold idle, but wouldn't do much more than that. That's my only suggestion. Good luck. __________________ Bill 2010 370z; Tour/Sport; 6mt; BlackCherry/Grey; 318 rwhp; 265 lbs rwtq. To view a list of my mods, click here; To view a photo journal of the mods, click here.

08-25-2019, 06:49 PM	#96 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 43 Posts: 36,449 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684440	Yikes! That's a bit of a worst case scenario there Definitely possible although there are a lot of other options that are probably more likely to have occurred. Cleaning the MAFs is a good opportunity to go ahead and clean the TBs also (I do both about every 20-25K miles - overkill but too cheap and easy not to do). Taking them off for cleaning (super easy) and a quick inspection would definitely rule out something getting stuck in the butterfly valve. SouthArk370Z likes this. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \| Last edited by JARblue; 08-25-2019 at 06:51 PM.

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08-24-2019, 02:16 PM	#91 (permalink)
earthbound Base Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: rocky man house alberta Posts: 6 Drives: 2010 370 nissan Rep Power: 10	Hello , in regards to this issue, I'm experiencing an issue like this, When I accelerate over 3500, rpm power cuts out, totally to the engine, unail the rvs are below 3000 rpm s,then it will run again.freaked me out to !! In traffic. I reset or have the car in sport mode it performs fine. At times it will come out of sport mode without activating the switch ! WTF !! I was wondering what sensory changed Kaine z34 Or does any one have any insight Lanster

08-25-2019, 11:25 AM	#92 (permalink)
earthbound Base Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: rocky man house alberta Posts: 6 Drives: 2010 370 nissan Rep Power: 10	Hello, I'm experiencing power loss, when accelerating, over 3500 rpm , Has anyone had this problem , ambient air temp is not an issue,this is also happening when the car is not in sport mode, when in sport mode it's fine, performs properly

10-28-2019, 07:10 PM	#97 (permalink)
$ully Base Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Inwood, Ontario, Canada Age: 61 Posts: 16 Drives: 13 370Z Roadster 6mt Rep Power: 3367	Greets Simota1 I'm glad the issue seems to have resolved itself for you. I've experienced the same thing with my Z roadster. Scared the poop outta me the first time. lol It was a low fuel hard acceleration on an highway exit type thing. I was right at the apex in 3rd running close to 4500 rpm and when I stomped on it to shoot though the apex .... nuthing, nada, zilch. I hit the clutch and the engine died. So I released the clutch again and the engine fired but still no throttle response. By then I was on level roadway and it stumbled and finally caught. The low fuel light wasn't on before I hit the exit but it came on while I was pulling G's on the ramp then went out again on the level roadway. I've also had my Z go into "limp mode" when it is first fired up usually on a cool morning. I live out in a rural area, so once I leave the small village proper the max speed changes from 40k to 90k and my next stop sign is 8 k away. The first time it happened I brought it up to 90k and thought maybe it needed to warmup. Nope, it seemed like it would only accept input from the peddle for the first few millimeters. Anything after that it would not respond. Once I reached the stop sign I shut the car off, then back on. It ran normally after that. It has only done this twice and the highway exit thing once. I have an OBD2 transmitter and have a few apps on my phone that allow me to check a host of things and to modify some of the settings. I like one called "car scanner". There are several choices carbit, torque, in car doc, car repair, and most likely dozens of others. Most have a free demo that allows you to see most things and some even allow you to do modifications.