If money was no object, I'd buy a GTR and call it a day.

You did start any trouble there are just a lot of us on this forum that are very opinionated and have no issues sharing their opinions. Most of us don't get too offended over a debate.

RCZ- I never said there was anything about f.i. I don't like, as a matter of fact I have a 1994 rhd hard top TT Supra that pushes close to 600 and I love it. However I still feel there is something to be said for being able to get good numbers and good times from an n/a engine.

If we could get to 400 n/a rwhp and a good driver with a good setup and I think we could be seeing mid 11 second passes all motor. In my circle and my eyes being able to say you have an all motor 11 second import is something to be pretty damn proud of.

I know that I'm bringing this thread from the dead but I had a couple questions. I would like to do an N/A build down the road (probably 3-4 years so I can keep my warranty). That being said what is currently the biggest hold back on creating power w/o any power adders. I'm assuming it is the VVEL since nobody has yet to crack it (although I've seen rumors that GTM either has or is very close). This brings me to my other question. Once the VVEL is cracked you could basically just reprogram the system to simulate larger intake cams right by adjusting the lift and duration correct? I know that forced induction would be a cheaper but I really like the idea of building a N/A engine. Again I apologize for bringing this back from the dead, I just wanted to expand on the conversation instead of starting a new thread.
--edit--
I'm not really looking for huge numbers just a more powerful free revving N/A motor than what it has stock.

Ok fellas this is what i think if you're looking to pull 11's on the strip w/ N/A engine why don't you just put you're Z on some serious diet. lol instead of punting $ in to it Why dont you just take it out :inoutroflpuke:

I honestly could care less about pulling 11s. I do plan on putting it on a diet but I don't understand why there seems to be so much hostility towards people that want to build a N/A motor. So what if it doesn't make 500hp. Not everyone cares about ultimate horsepower (odd as it may sound). I just want to build up an N/A motor. If it only gets 350whp so be it, if it gets 400whp awesome. I like turbos and superchargers just as much as the next person but I want to do something different this time and a N/A motor is my plan.

Folks

The NISMO 380RS runs a 400hp (at the flywheel) engine in a 350Z chassis in the Japanese Sports Car series. The engine is NA VQ38VHR engine - factory built and available to special order 3 years ago.

RJN Motorsports in the UK used to run the 350Z GT4 race progamme in the UK and Europe and these cars were in effect, NISMO 380RS's. They have now upgraded to the 370Z chassis for the 2011 GT4 programme and these cars are fitted with the same engine (VQ38VHR).

These cars are full-spec race cars and sell for around 120K Euro's.

You can take a VQ37 up to 3.8 and even 4.2 litres and with a stroker kit and higher compresion, with the relevant tune in the NISSAN ECU, I have no doubt you can get to 400hp, or even a little more.

I have been playing in the motorsport pond for 40 years, and a conservative estimate to build such and engine is $40K+, so I am echoing the earlier comments on the depth of your wallet.

Google "NISMO 380RS" and also "RJN Motorsports UK" if you have any interest in further research. For a street car, S/C or Turbo is going to be one-quarter of the cost of an NA horsepower increase.

My Z34 makes 215Kw (~290Hp) at the wheels and other thatn some tweaks on the suspension front, I am done. There is no point (IMHO) in trying for increased NA Horsepower on costs grounds - I have a "proper" race car to spend that sort of money on.

RB

LS10 swap. ;)

So 380RS running 400hp at the flywheel would be like 340hp at the wheels (if there is 15% drivetrain loss).

Then 400whp would be about 470hp at the flywheel, more like a supercharged 370z.

This is an old thread...

Anyway, based on dynojet data, typical range for minor bolt ons (exhaust, TP's, intake) plus tune, good weather/generous correction factor is around 300 - 315; every conceivable bolt on (including headers, very free flowing exhaust, pulleys), a tune, and good weather/generous correction factor 320 - 340 (highest recorded).

Effect of swapping exhaust cams remains largely unknown/untested, so that is with motor untouched.