^^ i do not think its the fuel, i run 93 octane V-power on mine and it is still high as hell. apparently its not the oil either, you use royal purple i use mobile 1.

We have 93 here, I'm not sure that it was the gas. I think there was some unburnt gas left in the system and it choked up a bit when I started it back up. It used to happen a little on my STI as well. It clears right up though. It might also just be crappy winter gas.

I went to the dealer yesterday and talked to a master tech that did the course on the GT-R and everything. He said I should only use their "ester oil" when I do any oil changes...I don't know if that is because they want to make a buck or because our cars really do need it.

I am going on the track on saturday... I'll let you all know what happens to the temperature...

Our cars definitely require ester in the motor oil but you shouldn't need to put Nissan Ester Oil specifically, just get a good oil with a lot of esters in it.

Like?

I think this car need after market oil cooler .
but hope this is normal

I thumbed through the Pegasus catalogue yesterday to see what the parts would cost to build an oil cooler. It looks like $550 - $600 to do it right. That would included a Mocal or Setrab oil cooler (AN -10 or -12 fittings, lines, fittings, oil filter plate adapter and an in-line thermostat. This price would be for premium lines and fittings. It looks like a short cooler may fit in the fender based on some press photos.

I've done this on a 993, RSA America and 944 turbo with very good results. The trick is to fab the anchors and route the lines. Take a block of Styrofoam and cut it to the size of the cooler you want to use. Then find a place to mount it that allows routing the lines. You can access the left fender on the Z through a small piece on the engine side of the radiator which would make routing the lines very easy. The right fender appears to have some type of reservoir in it.

You could do it for about half the price if you went with budget lines/fittings and left out the thermostat.

I may get energetic this week and take a few measurements.

Alan, let me know. I have like 4 different oil cooler prospects right now. I'm waiting to see what comes out first and $.

RCZ

I'll let you know what I find. It's going to be pretty cold in Cincinnati to be out in the garage for the next couple of days.

Another item to look at is the diff. From what I gather it may need a cooler as well. A good pump is already available. It doesn't look like it would be to hard to mount a cooler for the diff. It might be an issue with the oil being to cold in some circumstances. However, you could always run a temp gauge and an on/off switch into the cabin.

subscribed....will chime in after i drive my car more.

this really has my attention as it gets hot in texas as well in the coming months AND i get my car tomorrow and have a 240mi trip this friday

Alan i hape i see your results as soon as possible .

Yeah i played with the car a little on saturday, and in a matter of minutes i was up at 230-240 F.


So I went to the dealer to talk to them, and they said that a car normally runs at 200-210, when pushed this increases to 230-250. HE said it was perfectly normal for this, and showed me on a GTr they had on the shop. That thing would sit at 220 without really going over 5k rpm.


So I started looking around at other vehicles to see what is up. My shifter kart measured 260F, my Honda 600rr was at 210, and when riding at speed, cooled to 186. My neighbors mustang hovers at 285F, but that thing has something wrong with it.

on another note. if you look at the gauge itself. it goes from 100-300. with 200 right in the middle.

Now as an Engineer if I was to design tat gauge I would have the measurement be in the middle. That way when the car is running that needle is in the center, and at a quick glance you can now see if your running hot, or cool, without really having to look.


At least that how I do thing when I had race cars, set up all the gauges so the needles while operating pointed straight up. So when one was not pointing up you could tell really quick.


so thats all I have been able to figure out so far. I brought my Thermal DatAq with me to work, ill try and measure a 350 here, if the guy lets me do it.

on the track, the needle should be between 220-260, which is actually a "range" in the gauge.

My BMW 335i ran at about 240 all of the time. If pushed it would go up in a hurry. BMW felt this was the right temp.

On the other had I would have parked any air cooled Porsche I have owned in the past if the oil temp went above 230. Designs and oil have changed over time but I still had a hard time with 240F - 260F for my oil temp.

Not to barge in but is the general consensus between you guys to change the stock oil at 1k miles, then again at 3k? I'm about to pick up my 370 tomorrow and am planning a 700+ mile roadtrip early April (hope to have about 700-1k miles on it by then)... I'd like to know if it's best to change the stock oil before i do the trip.

My oil temp is right around 195 F. (30 degrees out)