Thanks!

Really? Man I'm about to pick up an '05 TSX this weekend, if all goes well. It can't be any different than the '08 Accord, right? [shrugs]

I have an appointment to meet up with a tech tomorrow after work. Unfortunately, tomorrow is also the coolest day of the week because of a cold front bringing some precipitation tonight. Hopefully it'll be a dry one.

The fuel pump is an interesting thought... who knows. [sigh]

She has a '10 2.4 TSX. Its response SUCKS really bad. My fiancee has an 08 SI with DBW, response SUCKS. I had an 06 RSX-S, response was perfect, especially with the mods I had, but even stock, the response was very nice. The Z, IMO, is just as good as the RSX, many other cable cars. I test just about every DBW car I get in my shop and I can honestly say they suck, plain and simple.

And yeah, the 08 Accord is the same as the TSX.

I agree with everything you said. I've had my hands on all those cars mentioned above. Except my 370 has this same response as digi's.

Off topic, have you driven a 2011 mustang? I've heard the response is as quick as the RSX's (cable-I use to own one) and I'm lookin for a car that has that same "cable" feel/response like I'm use to from my 350z and RSX.

Unplugging Bosch Yaw sensor didn't resolve the issue either. I have a vid if desired, but it's the same as the others. =\

The resistance of the pedal is what I think makes a cable feel better. DBW is just to... flimsy feeling. The thing to remember about the Z is it doesn't use the throttle bodies, per se, like a normal DBW, the cams are doing all the work in the most basic of terms. This is why, I guess, the 370z is so much faster, response-wise, than our average DBW. Well my car anyway, haha!

:mad: damn bro that's weak, its really odd that some 370's have this problem and others don't, hope you have lucky with tech ride along. Thinking more people with this problem probably should contact NNA, as it seems like it might be a problem where a recall might need to be implemented.

this technology used in these motors is very new, and you know how that goes with new vehicles, just ask GM...

I skimmed through the pages.. Anyone try an upgraded battery like an Optima Yellow top?

I don't see how that would help... Starting is no problem, and I maintain a high voltage during operation.

I just figuered the better amperage would help send the signal volts faster.. But, I don't thing you can increase the speed of light so yeah lol.

No, the battery has nothing at all to do with this issue.

I drove with the tech today. Unfortunately, it was barely 70F today so it was a hit and miss. Oil temps were around 200F. However, I did reproduce the lag while making a left turn in 1st with VDC off. I literally had 80% throttle and didn't let up. The tech had a confused look as we were making the turn. I also managed to apply moderate throttle in 2nd, and he felt the "clunking" feeling.

He says it feels like the engine is running lean and holding back power as if there is not enough fuel delivered.

I'm scheduled for Thursday assuming it is close to 80F and dry.

Please keep us updated! I'm going to have to reschedule mine. Work isn't permitting. Sucks too cuz I'm almost at 30k miles!

Ooops... sorry I had to correct my post. He says it feels like the engine is running lean and holding back power. He asked about my aftermarket exhaust and losing back pressure, and I told him that there were owners with stock exhaust with the same issue. I also assured him that the cats are stock. It doesn't make sense because the car runs fine for the first several miles before acting up, so it can't be the exhaust.

As another member suggested, I'm wondering about fuel delivery.

So Thursday with maybe a scan gauge of some sort.

Makes more sense, I kinda figured that's what you meant.
Also, I'm going to try another experiment this weekend. I don't know that it's necessarily temperature related (but partially?), but just seems that way. Maybe it's mostly time related. Today I experienced the same issue at sub 200º oil temp. I was going to try to warm my car up only by idling and see if the "quick" / "slow" test will replicate by idling for 30 or so mins. That way oil temps will be minimal. I don't know much about this... but maybe it has to do with the fuel tables that the ECU creates. I believe those are filled, used, and updated dynamically. Maybe that doesn't make much sense either... dunno. Keep us updated though!

First, I apologize for my rambling...
As I was driving in this morning, I drove a little hard to get oil temps up to 200+ (not quite 220 like I wanted). Usually after this much time, and even at 200º, I would normally experience the problem at least a little bit. But I wasn't. My newest idea has to do with air density / MAF sensors. In the mornings (or at night), the air is cooler and more dense. In the middle of the day, the air is much less dense. So either the MAF sensors are giving erroneous data to the ECU, or the ECU algorithm is messed up (I find this unlikely, since the problem would be seen MUCH more often). This would directly affect fuel ratio being delivered to the system.
Just my 2 cents.

No problems. I think the best way to summarize this problem is engine losing power during normal to rapid acceleration.

Man I had to reschedule. I had the car warmed up pretty good and was able to recreate the conditions. Hopefully conditions are good next week to test drive with the tech.

it does seem like 220deg is the magic number at which my car starts to have this issue. Temp is definitely playing a role since I had more headaches with this problem during the summer months.

maybe there are varying levels of damage control, you know, rather than just what they tell us happens at 260?

Oil temp of 220F is easy to reference and reproduce the problem, but I have notice a little bit of roughness with acceleration around 200F. Hopefully I can schedule an appointment tomorrow afternoon. If you guys can, try to schedule an appointment with your techs for test so cases can be opened with Nissan. If they get enough complaints, then they can start looking into this issue.

My appt is on November 1, 1pm.

Awesome. Today is the warmest day of the week. I called in this morning didn't get much luck scheduling another appointment. :mad:

After reading this I paid attention to my throttle response.

I have no delay what so ever.

it's a NISMO, but don't know if that matters.

I also don't feel the clutch issue people are talking about.

What clutch issue?

Clutch issue? In this thread or another?

people feeling the clutch "kick" then pressed all the way in..

I called my service dept. and the tech says he does not need to drive my car at the moment. Nissan does not have a fix for this issue, but he is also trying to do some more research.

To reiterate, I would like to encourge everyone who has this delay/power issue to schedule a drive with a tech so the complaint can be logged. Hopefully Nissan will issue a fix.

Digi: Just get that Turbo you want and problem fixed ;)

That's true, boost building up around 2.5K and beyond pretty much offsets that issue. :driving: How's the oil cooler treating you?

All, I just got a call back from my service department. The lead tech called Nissan Tech-Line, and the reason for "power cutting" is due to oil temperature. Suggestion to remedy this issue? Nissan offers an accessory oil cooler. They also suggest using the magical ester oil to further remedy the issue. I'm not surprised by any of this information, but I am relieved that it is nothing serious like VVEL actuator failure, sensor failure, etc.

There you have it guys, one of our primary suspicions since the beginning was: OIL TEMPERATURE.

i still think they secretly put varying levels of "engine protection" in without telling us. Like small steps in power reduction as oil temps creep past 210-220. its a possibility?!

Yea, 220F is the norm that I see when daily driving in 75F+ ambient (after 30min of freeway and stop-go city traffic). You would think they would start cutting power beyond that. My butt feels a difference in 2nd and 3rd around 200F. But yea, that pretty much explains why I can't light up the tires rolling in 1st when the oil temps are close to 220F.

At 23.5 MPG, you can sorta see what my driving habits are. It's just casual everyday driving. Even in that scenario the ECM is cutting power which can take my by surprise while making a turn or merging and having minor trouble keeping up with traffic (i.e., not as fast as anticipated).

That is still weird though how I dont feel what you are describing, meaning if it is an engine protection sorta mode, I'd have the same experience. I dont doubt you by any stretch of the imagination and I have been very vigilant and aware when Im driving, consciously looking for the problem, but I havent seen it yet.

are you gonna try an oil cooler?

It definately takes a few WOT pulls for the car to really give full power as the ECU adjusts to different driving styles. As the temperature went up, I could feel power going down without a doubt not to mention slower throttle response but I never got hang ups while revving nor the type of power cut you have.

Getting an oil cooler made all the difference for me, keeping the oil temperature down around 180 makes the car feel like an animal with noticeably more aggressive power delivery and throttle response; have you considered getting one?

hypertech.....

I'm not sure I'm buying into that story from the tech whole heartedly. Yes the engine is going to cut back power indirectly by pulling timing as the intake temperatures rise, but not as severely as your car seemed to be experiencing. I mean I can beat on the car at auto-x or at a race track and have never really encountered the problems you are experiencing, and that was with the oil temp hovering between 240 and 260.

You're right. It is a very noticeable problem, and it is pretty bad during the summer. When I give it more gas, the exhaust gets loud, but the car doesn't budge (i.e., feels like accelerating in too high of a gear).

As weird as it sounds for ambient temps averaging upper 60s to lower 70s this time of year for daily driving, I may get one. Either way, I'll be getting one once I pull the trigger on the F.I. project early next year. I've been a bit hesitant to go F.I. because of these issues. Based on your experience, if the oil cooler keeps me under 200F in daily driving conditions and resolves these power cut issues I'll be happy!

That's the weird thing. Some people get it and some people don't. Have you seen my YouTube video demonstrating the cut in power? It doesn't take hard driving to notice power being cut. However, as others may have jokingly mentioned, simply drive above 3k RPM and it'll be fine.

Well this is not good. I have had the Stillen "race" oil cooler since it came out and I still get this gas delay problem because my oil temp still hits 220 in city driving...yea I drive aggressive. I am soooooo disappointed with Nissan. GTR had issues with tranny/launch control and now the 370Z has more issues than a 20 year old Geo Metro.

-gas pedal delay
-oil over heating
-Ice mode braking issues (this has not happened to me yet)
-ECU whine noise (this has not happened to me or my car is too loud to hear it)
-Rear hatch sticking issue
-windows rolling down on their own
-oil consumption

This is not cool at all.

Yup, same here. And it's usually under 3.5K, correct? Oh, and it's really bad if you're stopped on a serious incline and try to get going.

WOW, how did I get so lucky... I think I have (or had) ALL of these problems (except Ice mode braking? - What's Ice?)
I didn't look into it, but my driver window goes down a little bit randomly. For the longest time, I thought it was me bumping it or something!

Anyway DIGI, thanks for the info. I'll see if my dealer concurs. I'm not going to tell him any of this since I want them to come to their own conclusion.