Agreed. I was reading a couple of other threads on this last night, and apparently turning VDC off doesn't turn off ALL things related to traction control. Some people mentioned pulling a fuse; however that fuse controls your break lights too.
I second that... where is the sensor so I can try to unplug it.

No, the fuse trick is to allow you to left foot brake/brake torque the car. The ABLS kicks on if you have excessive wheel spin from one side, you will see a light coming on the dash when it is on. The throttle tune is very soft on the Z, that's why you dont get the immediate push. You just have to get used to it.

*sigh*
It's not that. I've put 29,500 miles on it... I think I'm "used to it" by now.

I'm still not sure about that. With the cool weather we've been having lately I haven't had the usual throttle lagging issues. If it's really the nature of the throttle programming, then temperature wouldn't be an issue.

True, unless the sensor gives wrong values when it's hot - a faulty sensor for example.

During summer I can see us doing the "Ice mod" where one wraps the sensor in ice. LOL

I'm going for dry ice!

The sensor (not the brake light fuse) is under the center console. Just pull the cup holder and look in front/under the e-brake. It's a little hard to get to like this but I did it. If not you have to remove the center console to get full access to the ebrake area. No drawbacks if u know how to drive without CDC and tcs. Let's u drift the car also.

This actually makes me think that the problem is with a faulty sensor... If it truly was an ECU issue, we should see the problem massively wide-spread, unless certain people are just really sensitive to it. If there was a batch of faulty sensors (oil temp, yaw sensor, brake, etc...), then it would only be prevalent on a handful of vehicles. The faulty sensor could only be acting up when it gets hot. I'm still having the problem, as it hasn't cooled down significantly yet. This morning it was running great (it was cool out). I just got back from lunch, and car was at normal temp, and oil pushing 220, and it was doing it. Next oil change, I'm going to do the engine oil temperature check.

Does this cause any dash lights to come on? Since tcs/vdc is disabled?

Thanks!

Go bring it on a dyno and see if you have any break in power. Butt dyno is a lot different than what the car is doing. My 350 felt a lot faster than my 370, but it doesn't once I put my telemetry in the car.

Today was warm enough for the problem to come back. I find myself stabbing the throttle in traffic from 1st-3rd. It makes an S2000 feel like a torque monster down low. A visit to the dealership is scheduled for Tuesday after work, and I will be driving with a tech. They will keep the car overnight and do another test the next morning for comparison purpose, but I was also asked to drive another Z as well.

For anyone who encounter this issue, please park the car in neutral and observe the response time, rev level, and how long it holds before it drops back to idle:
1) Quickly stab the pedal to the floor and release it.
2) Fully press the pedal to the floor in a more casual fashion.
3) Turn off the car and let it "cool off" for about a minute.
4) Turn it back on and repeat steps 1 and 2.

I did this today and got some interesting results. I got done recording video with oil temps close to 220F. Tomorrow morning I will do normal vids after the car warms up and upload it on YouTube.

Yeah, the vdc and tcs lights will be on showing u that they actually off like when u push the vdc button. No other lights though. Nothing different then just pushing the button except u don't have to push the button anymore and no tcs interference

Video Demonstration
 

The first half of the video demonstrates quick and casual depress of the pedal to the floor. When I say "quick" or "slow," that is when I start pressing down on the pedal. You will hear 2 clicks from the pedal, one hitting the floor, and one when it is fully released.

The next half demonstrates a quick stab of the pedal to the floor in 1st and 2nd gear under normal conditions and after the extended period of driving (i.e., driving home from work).

Impressions
S-Mode or VDC does not appear to have any effect in holding revs. Regardless of the mode, the revs slowly climb, hang, and slowly return to idle when the engine is "hot." Also, the response is slower than usual as the engine does not easily rev past 2k RPM. Under "normal" conditions, the engine revs quicker easily beyond 3k RPM, the rise and fall is quicker, and it does not hang. After a cool down, it appears "normal" response returns, but it is no where near as good.

In normal conditions, I can literally peel out and go side ways for a moment from a roll in 1st. After an extended period of driving, I can barely get the car to budge in 1st. It feels like accelerating in 2nd from a standstill.

Now in 2nd gear, you can really see how slow the revs build up when the engine is "hot."

Unfortunately, I could not demonstrate the throttle delay. It was hard to hold the camera. If I demonstrate it with the tech, I will literally floor it while making a turn to prove the car will not burn rubber or go side ways.

Im going out tonight to do some photography. with this video in mind, i'll try and replicate what you did and see what the result is. Ill post my opinion when I get back.

Update:

Just got home from the shoot and didn't experience anything like you said or like what was in the video. Even at 220 oil temp, no lag, no hesitation, nothing, just pure unadulterated POWA!

I had an enlightening thought as well during the ride. I used to have the FI exhaust, and when I installed it, I distinctly remember losing a ton of back pressure and low end "uumph". I sold that exhaust and just put the stock back on and the car feels so much better in the low/mid rpms, "uumph"-wise. Your problem may be back pressure related. It'd be a pain in the ***, but if you put the stock exhaust back on, you'd feel the difference.

All of that lost low and midrange torque can be recovered and more with a tune (which Digi might have), back pressure wouldn't explain the notable difference in engine response whilst revving the engine without any load.

I have never had that kind of power or response decrease when warm, however I could feel the car get slightly weaker and less punchy as the oil temperatures went up. Now that I have my oil cooler, the car feels so much more punchy and powerful all the time thanks to temps between 180-190 at all times.

Well hopefully his dealer can get to the bottom of it.

Wow Digi, that last clip was horrible on the RPM climb. My car sometimes feels laggy, but I don't think its ever been that bad.

Hope you get to the bottom of this

I'll get video later today. Mine is basically identical!

FYI: Tune is stock as I plan to go FI early next year.

It gets worse the longer I drive it, and it is easy to reproduce the problem in warm weather. My oil temps typically over around 220F and probably no more than 240F at the extreme. I'm not 100% sure about oil temp because I've had this issue occur even at 180F. VDC doesn't even matter either.

It really takes the fun out of driving because this car is capable of breaking my Hankook 285 tires loose on a rolling start. The stall under 2k and slow revving is pretty scary in situations where I make a turn in traffic as it feels like VDC is cutting power without indicators lit. I'll try to test with the sensor module disconnected and get back with you guys with my findings.

See, the part about bogging pulling out into traffic Ive never experienced. Ive always thought of this car as the best feeling car doing that action I can remember, no bias though....!

Here's my car:



My car is still 100% stock (except for stereo, and it was off)

so are these pedal depressions all the way to the floor and up? When I did this last night it wasnt like that.

Yes, they are all the way down and up. My "quick" pushes are consistent, but the "slow" probably are less so. Even so, I think there is an obvious difference.

I did some more tinkering (not on vid), and proved that VDC and "S" mode have zero effect. I believe DIGI stated this earlier.

^ Haha yup... isn't that weird? The question about the Z holding revs was asked before especially by 7AT owners. We all thought it was an S-Mode feature to hold revs, but at stand still? It makes sense to maintain RPM between shifts, but it's weird to see the difference in rise and fall time with hot or cold engine using oil temp as a reference. Plus, you can see how lazy the engine feels to rev past 3k.

Thanks for the sanity check, IcedZ!

Lazy is a word I use to describe it sometimes. Also "mushy" or something. Hard to describe. I think I'm going to schedule an appointment with my dealership for early November. I don't think I can get in before =\ I think you have the right idea - have a drive with a tech. Also I might drive another one on the lot. Let me know what else I can do to help =)

Ok, reason I asked was because even if you do a quick pedal depression to the floor in mostly any other car, throttle cable included, you are gonna have that same type of reaction. The amount the throttle is open is only a small part of the equation. Time is also a big factor. A slower smoother push leaves the throttle open longer allowing more time for a higher rev. The fact still remains that is it conclusive that electronic throttles are slower than cables, combine that with what I mentioned before about the time a throttle is opened, and your gonna have scenarios like this.

Im still curious to see what the dealer says, but as of right now im still not convinced this is a problem. All Im doing is presenting reasonable ideas as to why what you are experiencing could just be normal and the idea of it being a "problem" could just be blown out of proportion. We'll have to see what the diagnostic equipment says, if the dealer even bothers with it.

This is a very big problem. Almost got T-boned the other day because of this. Sometimes I hit the gas and the car accelerates and sometimes I hit the gas and the car bogs down. I always drive with VDC off so I don't think it is a traction control issue.

How can you say it's not a problem when you aren't seeing the same thing on your car?! And yet again, it is NOT an electronic throttle vs cable throttle issue.

And I respectfully disagree that electronic throttle *IS* slower than its cable counterpart, however it CAN be. In any case, this does not belong in this thread.

Same. I went through a 2-way stop, where oncoming traffic does not stop, expected to have PLENTY of time, instead went almost nowhere. THEN when power did kick in, I was in a bit of sand, so tires just went spinning and the car going nowhere. Scared the **** out of me (and probably the guy oncoming too)!

1. Killer Bee never chimed back in about what his tuner did to fix the problem, any update?
2. Can anyone who is experiencing the bog/accel problem attempt what kevin8086 did and see if it made a difference.

Personally I think its sad that a brand new car has this kinda of problem, I just find it troubling that if heat is causing the car to bog after pressing the gas pedal down, Nissan wouldn't include an oil cooler or other types of cooling agents to attempt to cool down the engine bay, and prevent this from happening. Well I guess that's what the 11 model will be for -.-

I unplugged the Bosch Yaw sensor tonight. I'll find out results tomorrow.

And agreed =\

I never said the issue was solely based on the cable issue, I said that is a small part of the equation. How am I supposed to know that your problem pulling out in traffic isn't a driver problem more than a car issue? You guys just seem to be jumping to conclusions as to a problem existing. Im not saying there isnt a problem, Im just saying there may be explanations. And no one has advocated going to a dealer like I have for several pages. Only a person who has dealt with many other Z's is going to be able to diagnose if there is a problem, not us sitting behind our computers guessing.

I can't completely blame this problem on DBW because I never complained about lag issues with the 350Z. Plus, my dad's '05 Xterra and my '08 Accord doesn't lag either regardless of temperature.

To put it it this way, the Accord DBW does not lag driving back in forth in and out of town on a hot summer day. The 370Z starts having issues passing other vehicles while driving out of town. Passengers describe it as me letting off the throttle while passing.

You would think downshifting to 3rd and gradually pressing the throttle from 20%-70% would mean progressive power, but it's not the case with the 370Z. During normal operation, it will progressively open the throttle. When "hot" it feels like power progresses between 20-40%, dead 40%-50%, decreased and dead 50% and beyond (as if throttle is being let off). It's an exaggeration, but any of you get my drift?

This is my 3rd Z and I HAVE tried going to the dealer. They were unwilling / unable to help. I've even spoken to the shop manager. i'm going to call this morning and see if they will do a ride-along with me or something. I had an '07 X-terra, it was fine. My girlfriends accord is fine.

Hey man it sounds like ur fuel pump overheating and lagging not enough lube to move freely when its expanded by the temp or a design flaw to fix this u need a real tech. Am not one of them am just a guy who hears stories. Or get an aftermarket pump but think how much gas ur gonna save on a broken pump Lol :D

I unplugged the Bosch Yaw sensor last night, and my drive in this morning felt awesome! But, it was the coolest morning we've had all season, upper 40's. I'll find out after work today if it helps. Also, I took your advice digi, and scheduled an appointment for a ride-along with a tech. That's not until 11/1 though.

that describes it a bit better. sounds like you may have a dead spot in your gas pedal, i dont know. That definitely describes a problem, especially if passengers notice it. It also describes something Ive never felt in my car, regardless of the temp. all I can suggest at this point is to go to a dealer and ask to test drive another one, tell them what your experiencing, and take it from there. If the other Z doesnt do it, they can have something to compare your with.

My moms TSX is horrible with the lag, as are most DBW cars I get in my shop.