FYI: Tune is stock as I plan to go FI early next year.

It gets worse the longer I drive it, and it is easy to reproduce the problem in warm weather. My oil temps typically over around 220F and probably no more than 240F at the extreme. I'm not 100% sure about oil temp because I've had this issue occur even at 180F. VDC doesn't even matter either.

It really takes the fun out of driving because this car is capable of breaking my Hankook 285 tires loose on a rolling start. The stall under 2k and slow revving is pretty scary in situations where I make a turn in traffic as it feels like VDC is cutting power without indicators lit. I'll try to test with the sensor module disconnected and get back with you guys with my findings.

See, the part about bogging pulling out into traffic Ive never experienced. Ive always thought of this car as the best feeling car doing that action I can remember, no bias though....!

Here's my car:



My car is still 100% stock (except for stereo, and it was off)

so are these pedal depressions all the way to the floor and up? When I did this last night it wasnt like that.

Yes, they are all the way down and up. My "quick" pushes are consistent, but the "slow" probably are less so. Even so, I think there is an obvious difference.

I did some more tinkering (not on vid), and proved that VDC and "S" mode have zero effect. I believe DIGI stated this earlier.

^ Haha yup... isn't that weird? The question about the Z holding revs was asked before especially by 7AT owners. We all thought it was an S-Mode feature to hold revs, but at stand still? It makes sense to maintain RPM between shifts, but it's weird to see the difference in rise and fall time with hot or cold engine using oil temp as a reference. Plus, you can see how lazy the engine feels to rev past 3k.

Thanks for the sanity check, IcedZ!

Lazy is a word I use to describe it sometimes. Also "mushy" or something. Hard to describe. I think I'm going to schedule an appointment with my dealership for early November. I don't think I can get in before =\ I think you have the right idea - have a drive with a tech. Also I might drive another one on the lot. Let me know what else I can do to help =)

Ok, reason I asked was because even if you do a quick pedal depression to the floor in mostly any other car, throttle cable included, you are gonna have that same type of reaction. The amount the throttle is open is only a small part of the equation. Time is also a big factor. A slower smoother push leaves the throttle open longer allowing more time for a higher rev. The fact still remains that is it conclusive that electronic throttles are slower than cables, combine that with what I mentioned before about the time a throttle is opened, and your gonna have scenarios like this.

Im still curious to see what the dealer says, but as of right now im still not convinced this is a problem. All Im doing is presenting reasonable ideas as to why what you are experiencing could just be normal and the idea of it being a "problem" could just be blown out of proportion. We'll have to see what the diagnostic equipment says, if the dealer even bothers with it.

This is a very big problem. Almost got T-boned the other day because of this. Sometimes I hit the gas and the car accelerates and sometimes I hit the gas and the car bogs down. I always drive with VDC off so I don't think it is a traction control issue.

How can you say it's not a problem when you aren't seeing the same thing on your car?! And yet again, it is NOT an electronic throttle vs cable throttle issue.

And I respectfully disagree that electronic throttle *IS* slower than its cable counterpart, however it CAN be. In any case, this does not belong in this thread.

Same. I went through a 2-way stop, where oncoming traffic does not stop, expected to have PLENTY of time, instead went almost nowhere. THEN when power did kick in, I was in a bit of sand, so tires just went spinning and the car going nowhere. Scared the **** out of me (and probably the guy oncoming too)!

1. Killer Bee never chimed back in about what his tuner did to fix the problem, any update?
2. Can anyone who is experiencing the bog/accel problem attempt what kevin8086 did and see if it made a difference.

Personally I think its sad that a brand new car has this kinda of problem, I just find it troubling that if heat is causing the car to bog after pressing the gas pedal down, Nissan wouldn't include an oil cooler or other types of cooling agents to attempt to cool down the engine bay, and prevent this from happening. Well I guess that's what the 11 model will be for -.-

I unplugged the Bosch Yaw sensor tonight. I'll find out results tomorrow.

And agreed =\

I never said the issue was solely based on the cable issue, I said that is a small part of the equation. How am I supposed to know that your problem pulling out in traffic isn't a driver problem more than a car issue? You guys just seem to be jumping to conclusions as to a problem existing. Im not saying there isnt a problem, Im just saying there may be explanations. And no one has advocated going to a dealer like I have for several pages. Only a person who has dealt with many other Z's is going to be able to diagnose if there is a problem, not us sitting behind our computers guessing.