During summer I can see us doing the "Ice mod" where one wraps the sensor in ice. LOL

I'm going for dry ice!

The sensor (not the brake light fuse) is under the center console. Just pull the cup holder and look in front/under the e-brake. It's a little hard to get to like this but I did it. If not you have to remove the center console to get full access to the ebrake area. No drawbacks if u know how to drive without CDC and tcs. Let's u drift the car also.

This actually makes me think that the problem is with a faulty sensor... If it truly was an ECU issue, we should see the problem massively wide-spread, unless certain people are just really sensitive to it. If there was a batch of faulty sensors (oil temp, yaw sensor, brake, etc...), then it would only be prevalent on a handful of vehicles. The faulty sensor could only be acting up when it gets hot. I'm still having the problem, as it hasn't cooled down significantly yet. This morning it was running great (it was cool out). I just got back from lunch, and car was at normal temp, and oil pushing 220, and it was doing it. Next oil change, I'm going to do the engine oil temperature check.

Does this cause any dash lights to come on? Since tcs/vdc is disabled?

Thanks!

Go bring it on a dyno and see if you have any break in power. Butt dyno is a lot different than what the car is doing. My 350 felt a lot faster than my 370, but it doesn't once I put my telemetry in the car.

Today was warm enough for the problem to come back. I find myself stabbing the throttle in traffic from 1st-3rd. It makes an S2000 feel like a torque monster down low. A visit to the dealership is scheduled for Tuesday after work, and I will be driving with a tech. They will keep the car overnight and do another test the next morning for comparison purpose, but I was also asked to drive another Z as well.

For anyone who encounter this issue, please park the car in neutral and observe the response time, rev level, and how long it holds before it drops back to idle:
1) Quickly stab the pedal to the floor and release it.
2) Fully press the pedal to the floor in a more casual fashion.
3) Turn off the car and let it "cool off" for about a minute.
4) Turn it back on and repeat steps 1 and 2.

I did this today and got some interesting results. I got done recording video with oil temps close to 220F. Tomorrow morning I will do normal vids after the car warms up and upload it on YouTube.

Yeah, the vdc and tcs lights will be on showing u that they actually off like when u push the vdc button. No other lights though. Nothing different then just pushing the button except u don't have to push the button anymore and no tcs interference

Video Demonstration
 

The first half of the video demonstrates quick and casual depress of the pedal to the floor. When I say "quick" or "slow," that is when I start pressing down on the pedal. You will hear 2 clicks from the pedal, one hitting the floor, and one when it is fully released.

The next half demonstrates a quick stab of the pedal to the floor in 1st and 2nd gear under normal conditions and after the extended period of driving (i.e., driving home from work).

Impressions
S-Mode or VDC does not appear to have any effect in holding revs. Regardless of the mode, the revs slowly climb, hang, and slowly return to idle when the engine is "hot." Also, the response is slower than usual as the engine does not easily rev past 2k RPM. Under "normal" conditions, the engine revs quicker easily beyond 3k RPM, the rise and fall is quicker, and it does not hang. After a cool down, it appears "normal" response returns, but it is no where near as good.

In normal conditions, I can literally peel out and go side ways for a moment from a roll in 1st. After an extended period of driving, I can barely get the car to budge in 1st. It feels like accelerating in 2nd from a standstill.

Now in 2nd gear, you can really see how slow the revs build up when the engine is "hot."

Unfortunately, I could not demonstrate the throttle delay. It was hard to hold the camera. If I demonstrate it with the tech, I will literally floor it while making a turn to prove the car will not burn rubber or go side ways.

Im going out tonight to do some photography. with this video in mind, i'll try and replicate what you did and see what the result is. Ill post my opinion when I get back.

Update:

Just got home from the shoot and didn't experience anything like you said or like what was in the video. Even at 220 oil temp, no lag, no hesitation, nothing, just pure unadulterated POWA!

I had an enlightening thought as well during the ride. I used to have the FI exhaust, and when I installed it, I distinctly remember losing a ton of back pressure and low end "uumph". I sold that exhaust and just put the stock back on and the car feels so much better in the low/mid rpms, "uumph"-wise. Your problem may be back pressure related. It'd be a pain in the ***, but if you put the stock exhaust back on, you'd feel the difference.

All of that lost low and midrange torque can be recovered and more with a tune (which Digi might have), back pressure wouldn't explain the notable difference in engine response whilst revving the engine without any load.

I have never had that kind of power or response decrease when warm, however I could feel the car get slightly weaker and less punchy as the oil temperatures went up. Now that I have my oil cooler, the car feels so much more punchy and powerful all the time thanks to temps between 180-190 at all times.

Well hopefully his dealer can get to the bottom of it.

Wow Digi, that last clip was horrible on the RPM climb. My car sometimes feels laggy, but I don't think its ever been that bad.

Hope you get to the bottom of this

I'll get video later today. Mine is basically identical!