Most Bang for the Buck - Horsepower
 

I am new so this maybe the wrong forum but was hoping to get my 370z from 330hp to 400hp without going nuts and spending 10,000 on turbo or supercharger.

Can you guys help?

Injen cold air intakes - 20hp is what they dynoed.
Exhaust - Maybe 5hp.

Anything else except NOS?

Intake, headers, test pipes, exhaust, and then a tune. That won't get you to 400 though.

Seems like whatever the first mod is, whether it is exhaust, HFC's, or an intake, the net is usually 20hp, with the following mods only adding a little each time. Personal preference really which to start with.

Even with all the boltons! your going to fall short?

When we back converted Semtex's HP gains to crank horsepower numbers he was just shy of 400bhp. That was with intakes, HFC, headers, exhaust and pulley. Granted the calculations aren't an exact science, just ballpark. You need approximately 55whp gain to achieve a 70bhp gain.

We need cams!

the stillen intake alone is nearly 20hp at the wheels and then pulleys and exhaust might get you somewhere in the 380-390HP.

Nope. dont agree with this.

The cheapest way to get to the 400whp mark is a supercharger. This game is not a cheap one, you must pay to play. Infact it will cost more to go N/A and reach 400whp than it would to charge the car. No cheap way for 400whp goal. Now 330whp might cost at least 4k, like I said you have to pay to play, its not like owning a old honda.

Sorry I am putting this in whp instead of hp becuase this is they most known way to predict figures.

Basically OP wants to add 70 RWHP. Full bolt-ons and a tune will probably get you around 50RWHP, maybe 60.


most bang for the buck mod will be HFC.

lol, u need exhaust. stock exhaust is a joke. 370z exhaust is even smaller than 350z's. The stock y-pipe is at most 1.5 inchs wide.

wll he said from 330 to 400 so thats not at the wheels so with full bolt ons its possible but not at the wheels. And first mod like said before usually nets the most, which ever one you do.

ok, im gonna put this to bed right now. Best bang for the buck goes to test pipes, for less than $300, you can gain 15-20whp, plenty dyno proven results on the site, same with HFC's but they cost $100-$200 more, so get them or HFC's and good luck with the demon bolt as myself and mr. Zsteve can attest, its a doosie.

:iagree: :bowrofl:

here, $200 for 20whp, you can thank me later.

CNT RACING 09-10 Nissan 370z Resonated Test pipe

true dat

:iagree:

The demon bolt was a pain but it is do able. I used pb to get it off.

I believe the op meant 400 crank horsepower not 400 whp. Long tube intakes may get you equal peak horsepower as a stillen/f.i./berk exhaust but wont' have anywhere near the gains in the midrange since the stock intakes aren't restrictive until 6500 rpm to redline. It seems like an exhaust will get you 20 whp, intakes may add a little bit at the top end after that, and hfcs will add another 5-10 peak whp with more in the midrange. Pulleys seem to have decent gains but I doubt you're over 380 at the crank even with all those. Unless cobb or uprev come out with a tune that's significantly better than the cobb map for the g37 (showing 3% gain) or you get into building the motor, you aren't getting there.

As everyone has said, you need to add about ~60rwhp to be making ~400 crank, most people with bolt ons and tune are just shy of that, maybe 380-390 crank. Thats doable for about 3-4k depending on what you purchase. I would agree with test pipes as being the best initial mod if you want the most power, for $200 (CNT/ERZ) you can't beat that.

1100 for FI CBE, 250 for ERZ HFC, 70 for K&N drop ins and 495 for Cobb AP with AAM tune. I am probably close to that mark for about 1500 dollars. If the vvel can be cracked and shows good gains then its easlity possible.

best bang for the buck is by far a superchager kit.

best bang for the buck is buy another 370z, U got an additional +332hp and +270 torque. Total 664hp. lol haha, it is too funny, i have to say this!

And it's a sedan and seats 4 adults comfortably...

dont forget the v12.

8 wheeler as well. almost a truck. granted 8 brake pads and rotors! think of the stopping power!

lol, haha. this is hilarious!

A really steep hill! It's free and will at least make your car feel faster! ;)

nitrous?

^I have to agree even though the OP wanted to stay away from FI applications. The only supporting mod you might need is a nice CBE. Any SC kit will include intake replacements too. And if you're mechanically savvy enough you can do the install yourself and save $1k...less than 6k and you'll be well above your 400 bhp goal. Run only 7lbs of boost and the whole setup should be pretty damn reliable too.

4000 rabid squirrels. that'll get you the power that's needed.

With a STILLEN Intake, STILLEN Exhaust, and STILLEN HFC you will gain 28 whp....cost $2600, bringing whp to 305, 360 at the flywheel.

I got the hfc's installed with air tools no pb blaster. One of the bolts I pulled by hand.

Does the HFC or Test Pipe fit on the Nismo? Still learning about all these performance parts.

Thx

Does anyone know the maximum horsepower and torque specs for the 7AT?

I'm sure there would be no problem with bolt ons, but what would a supercharger or twin turbos do to the automatic transmission?

:iagree:

YouTube - STILLEN 370Z / G37 3.7L Supercharger - 515HP!

:happydance::happydance::happydance:

Shouldnt it be the same, its the same car just Automatic?

Sell your car and pay $41K for a base model LS3 Corvette, instant 430HP :)

GS LS3 LT3 in about a month or two here.

As long as you have a breaker bar, it is not too hard. For the bolts underneath the car, use one wrench and then daisy chain another wrench for more leverage:

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/3...chtrick1zj.jpg

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