Thanks for the pics. This is a safety issue and should be a recall IMO.

Getting a clunk at 17k miles. Ill include this on my checklist for tomorrow.

My car is all torn apart right now so Im going to check this out as well. Rep for you thanks!

wow, interesting... my car actually seemed to (randomly) stop making the clunk sound that I commented about back in post# 1... but I'm definitely going to check on that axle nut/cotter pin situation. Thanks 'unclemeaty' for the info! :tiphat:

Ive been hearing the clunk for the last couple of months but my car is too low for the dealer : (

Just saw this in the manual:

"The computer has a built-in diagnostic feature
that tests the system each time you start the
engine and move the vehicle forward or in
reverse at a slow speed. When the self-test
occurs, you may hear a “clunk” noise and/or feel
a pulsation in the brake pedal. This is normal and
is not an indication of a malfunction."

I get that occasionally, usually in the morning as I back out the garage.

i believe this sound which the manual mentions is probably what a lot of people have experienced with the seem-to-be "rear axle clunk"

After reading all this. I still don't know what to make of it. I test drove 2 2011 370z's both with Sports, S-Mode off or on, VDC off or on, didn't make much of a difference. This is my first RWD car and hearing this noise from both cars, my initial reaction was "well the power is transferred to the back, so it would seem natural in a way, as long as it's not too loud, it should be ok."

Right now I own in of the the Z I test drove. Yes the noise is there, is it unbearable? No. I will hold my judgement after I put more mileage on it. I might even go test drive a G37 and hear it myself.

This reminds me of the 2005-2006 Acura RSX Type-S second gear grind and the steering "clicking." Owners on that forum had a petition going and all, trying to get Honda/Acura an answer or fix. Well, after 90,000 miles I put mine, the second gear is it is what it is. My RSX still drives great, and the steering clicking had gone since 30,000 miles.

I am not saying the RSX issues are comparable to those to the 370z's, nor am I saying they will go away or become worse. Like couple other guys on here said, every car has quirks, just like my brother's EVO X, my parents' Volvo and my old Civic SI. Unless you beat on it or drive very hard all the time, I don't think you should worry too much. Of course, there will be a few bad apples out there but we all hope we don't have that bad one.

All I gotta say is, 370z is a good car for the money, drive it, be happy, smile and enjoy! If it bothers you so much, take it to the stealership. If it breaks, fix it.

i've recently started to hear a frequent clunk from the rear end also.
i can hear it when releasing the clutch at idle and higher revs. forward, reverse and while changing gears or letting off the gas pedal.

4 whole turns is ridiculous. i'm going to pop the wheels off tomorrow and have a look myself.
To eliminate the issue of the nut having up to 4 full turns of movement til
it hits the cotter pin, i will find a suitable washer(s) and put it between the nut and the cotter pin.

i wonder why most people are reporting noise from the left side?
The reason i wonder is quite simple:
1. go grab a bottle with a cap
2. hold the cap firmly
3. rotate the bottle clockwise
4. observe the cap as you rotate the bottle.

what you just simulated is the axle rotating clockwise. the cap is the axle nut, which came loose as you rotated the bottle.
the only side that rotates clockwise during forward motion is the right hand side....

unless folks are reversing more enthusiastically than i am?

just take it to the dealer. I have 32k on my car and they fixed it for free, i actually just went like 2 days ago. :tiphat:

depending what i find, i'll let the dealer fix the bigger problems that require parts. i dont mind getting my hands dirty and getting familiar for when the warranty runs out.

if the diff bushes are leaking.. that's a dealer job for sure but its great knowing whiteline make replacements

ok, so the regreasing fixed my clunking.

unfortunately for me it wasnt a 35min per side job. getting the axle nut off and applying the grease as per the 350z UK forum was the easiest part.

the part that took the longest was when i had to re-secure the "adjusting cap" on the RHS axle (the thing that looks like a large beer cap) using the cotter pin. couldnt get a direct blow with a hammer and the pin is too stiff to use pointy pliers.

Some tips for any future DIY de-clunkerers:
- Pop out the hub cap and put the tyre back on with a couple of lug nuts. This makes it easier to spin the axle while you apply grease. Much easier than wrestling the brake rotor while trying not to make a mess with the grease.
- Screw the axle nut back on so that it's on the first thread then push the axle out using a socket extension or any suitable bar, then jam a 0.5.-0.7" thick object into the gap between the nut and the hole where the hub cap goes. Thickness of object depends on what is required to hold the axle in the pushed out position.
- I made my own grease piping bag (think of what the wife uses to decorate cakes) by cutting the corner off a parcel satchel. Chosen for its durability and resistance to tearing. I cut about 2-3mm off the corner of the corner section i cut off the satchel. Pack the bad boy up with grease and it does a superb job at getting the right amount of grease in the right place. You can use a syringe but it'll be a pain loading it with grease. The part you are trying to grease is the ring directly around the axle splines. I applied a 3-5mm bead around this area. There was hardly any grease present - bare metal was visible. So i didnt bother cleaning it up prior.
- Rotate the adjusting cap to find a fresh set of prongs (factory would've made one set wide and hence loose on re-use.
- I removed the axle nut with the tyres on (after removing centre hub cap). I feel safer having both wheels on the ground when applying that much torque to loosen it. I highly recommend this for the folks that do not have the adjusting cap. ie. those with the nuts done up to 185Nm.

Also, according to the FSM some '09 and all '10 models do not have the adjusting cap. I assume they would have a conventional large axle nut with the cut out end. These models require the nut to done up to 185Nm (136ft lb).
Models with the adjusting cap like my '11, requires only 105Nm (77ft lb). Lug nuts are done up tighter!

I'm sorry but I could not read any further. You have to be f*cking kidding me to expect this from a new car! We put a man on the Moon already – in 1969. Not acceptable in any way shape or form. I’ll sell you my supercharged 96 Miata that sticks it w/ original clutch for say 25K? What a deal. She can blow your mind at 140 somthing on the interstate top down. Little Miata goes mmmmmmm, zoom, zoom.

The axle noise is more of click thank a clunk...Had it myself and ended up needing an axle because my right threaded were mushed up and the axle nut was cross threaded on from the factory...JHC. Anyway, an actual clunk may also be the rear diff mount if axle greasing does not fix your issue.