just take it to the dealer. I have 32k on my car and they fixed it for free, i actually just went like 2 days ago. :tiphat:

depending what i find, i'll let the dealer fix the bigger problems that require parts. i dont mind getting my hands dirty and getting familiar for when the warranty runs out.

if the diff bushes are leaking.. that's a dealer job for sure but its great knowing whiteline make replacements

ok, so the regreasing fixed my clunking.

unfortunately for me it wasnt a 35min per side job. getting the axle nut off and applying the grease as per the 350z UK forum was the easiest part.

the part that took the longest was when i had to re-secure the "adjusting cap" on the RHS axle (the thing that looks like a large beer cap) using the cotter pin. couldnt get a direct blow with a hammer and the pin is too stiff to use pointy pliers.

Some tips for any future DIY de-clunkerers:
- Pop out the hub cap and put the tyre back on with a couple of lug nuts. This makes it easier to spin the axle while you apply grease. Much easier than wrestling the brake rotor while trying not to make a mess with the grease.
- Screw the axle nut back on so that it's on the first thread then push the axle out using a socket extension or any suitable bar, then jam a 0.5.-0.7" thick object into the gap between the nut and the hole where the hub cap goes. Thickness of object depends on what is required to hold the axle in the pushed out position.
- I made my own grease piping bag (think of what the wife uses to decorate cakes) by cutting the corner off a parcel satchel. Chosen for its durability and resistance to tearing. I cut about 2-3mm off the corner of the corner section i cut off the satchel. Pack the bad boy up with grease and it does a superb job at getting the right amount of grease in the right place. You can use a syringe but it'll be a pain loading it with grease. The part you are trying to grease is the ring directly around the axle splines. I applied a 3-5mm bead around this area. There was hardly any grease present - bare metal was visible. So i didnt bother cleaning it up prior.
- Rotate the adjusting cap to find a fresh set of prongs (factory would've made one set wide and hence loose on re-use.
- I removed the axle nut with the tyres on (after removing centre hub cap). I feel safer having both wheels on the ground when applying that much torque to loosen it. I highly recommend this for the folks that do not have the adjusting cap. ie. those with the nuts done up to 185Nm.

Also, according to the FSM some '09 and all '10 models do not have the adjusting cap. I assume they would have a conventional large axle nut with the cut out end. These models require the nut to done up to 185Nm (136ft lb).
Models with the adjusting cap like my '11, requires only 105Nm (77ft lb). Lug nuts are done up tighter!

I'm sorry but I could not read any further. You have to be f*cking kidding me to expect this from a new car! We put a man on the Moon already – in 1969. Not acceptable in any way shape or form. I’ll sell you my supercharged 96 Miata that sticks it w/ original clutch for say 25K? What a deal. She can blow your mind at 140 somthing on the interstate top down. Little Miata goes mmmmmmm, zoom, zoom.

The axle noise is more of click thank a clunk...Had it myself and ended up needing an axle because my right threaded were mushed up and the axle nut was cross threaded on from the factory...JHC. Anyway, an actual clunk may also be the rear diff mount if axle greasing does not fix your issue.

Hmm, sorry to hear some of you guys are still experiencing this issue (or similar to what I had). The clunk/click sound that my car was making back in 2010 mysteriously went away on it's own. I didn't touch anything, didn't grease anything, nothing. So I'm not entirely sure what happened. Was very strange for it being such a pronounced sound to just go away on its own like that. Hopefully everything is still ok and my rear end doesn't randomly break or fall apart. Lol

No this click comes from the spline at the axle hub, it's a shrug from the dealer so far, seems they have no idea on a fix,,
we need to stand together on this!!!

hey guys,
this i think mainly applies to 6MT models but did anyone notice their Z being sluggish off the line when they were experiencing the clicking noises?

I say mainly 6MT models because you'd feel the same sluggish/sloppy shift sensation each time you change gear because you're unloading then loading up the axles again.

By sluggish i mean it feels like the handbrake is up when you take off and the car bogs before breaking free and blasting off

Check your rear diff mount... Can't explain how crappy it made the car feel off The line and gear changes until iI installed the whitelines... and grease those splines!

apart from the typical diff mount fluid oil spattered everywhere, what else should i look for?
I don't see any leaking mounts. Does jacking up the car from the diff destroy the mounts?

My regrease attempt using wheel bearing grease didnt last long. Now both sides have a very distinct and loud metallic click each time i accelerate and let go of the pedal.

Does anyone have an explanation for why grease is required in this area?
It's NOT the splines. The grease (M77) is applied to the mating face between the axle and the backside of the hub.
When i regreased it (not using M77), as i rotated the hub, the axle of course rotates with it and so too does the mating face on the hub.
I cant see any friction.... the only thing i can think of is the grease acts as a cushion. After all, M77 is an extreme pressure grease and the high moly content works even after the carrier oil has gone

Greasing the splines is one thing. Have you tighten the axle bolts? That was the issue with mine. It was loose!

you mean the 32mm nut?
i torqued it up per the fsm for my year (2011) which happens to be less than lug nut torque!

some models just have the castle nut with the cotter pin thru it. mine is the one with the beer cap looking thing that goes over a normal nut.

Whoa, I haven't noticed anything clunking in my rear end but I only have 15K on mine. Maybe if I get bored I'll take a look :). Now I'm wondering if I should check mine on general principle.

if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

i started with one side clicking... regreased both sides for good measure and now both are clicking. ffs!

you'll know you've got it when feathering the clutch in 1st or reverse results in a metallic click. it's not hard to hear with stereo off or low and windows down.

This clunk comes from the rotor area not from the shaft area. it's annoying
$40,000 and it sounds like a a mustang.

yep, which also happens to be the region where the actual source of noise is from - the mating face between the base of the splined axle end and the hub.

embarassing indeed

I had this issue with my 2009 370z Base Model.
Rear left axle had the clunk noise.
I took it twice to the dealer and the noise came back.
The dealer service guys were very difficult so, i called Nissan Consumer Affairs.
immediatelly, the dealer became verynhelpful and polite.
they tried one more time to disassemble and lubricate the rear axles and suspension.
the noise went away for 6 weeks and came back.
once again i took it back to them. they then tried to push it to the extended warranty company.
i told them that they would have their claim refused since this was included in the powertrain warranty.
finally they honored the factory warranty and changed my left rear axle.
its been only 2 days, so im keeping my fingers crossed that the issue is gone.
2 thumbs up tu Nissan Consumer Affairs that follow up my case all they way until the end :)

i hope i dont have to replace the axles..
i did snag the boots a few times when i removed them to clean & regrease.

i used Honda's M77 assembly paste on the mating face of the axle ends and i also put 2 rings on the splines so hopefully that will keep it all sweet.

Did you mean the 6 on each side, holding the axle to the diff stubs? I torqued them back up after i removed the axles completely to regrease.

The bloody click has returned, only on the right hand side one it seems.
My theory now is that the nut threads have stretched. I ordered all items marked as single use only on the FSM and i'll be replacing them soon.
- Axle nuts
- Washers under each nut
- 12 x bolts
- Adjusting caps (the beer cap looking thing) - although not listed as single use
- Cotter pins

No chances taken this time. I want the click gone for good. It's killing my enjoyment of this car.

I have the same problem. It sound like tin cans are shaking when shifting from 1st to 2nd... It's unacceptable for this to happen on a 2014 with only 700 miles on it... The dealership said this should not be happening and they're fixing the problem right now!!!

I've been getting the SAME exact sound lately on mine. And I couldn't figure out what it was. I drive a manual so I thought it was only when I engaged the clutch...but it's not. It seems to happen almost always if the car hasn't been warmed up..and I drive off immediately.. It'll continue until it's "warm". I would definitely like some clarification if anyone has come up with a cause.

The sound I'm hearing isn't the clunk or sound that the OP talked about. Mine happens while the car is already in motion and especially on turns. It just sounds like.. a little bit of a rattle like my exhaust is vibrating against the car. But I checked that. I have no idea what it is. But I've looked under the car..nothing is stuck, binding, loose, etc.

Sway bar links or their bushing?

this sounds like a different noise.
what RPM are you shifting at? did you record any video?
could this be the shifter rattle?

be sure to update us on the outcome.

I got the car back and they said everything is in good working order. They clunk I heard when shifting from 1st to 2nd at low RPM is because of the close gear ratio. Me and the manger drove two other Zs and they were doing the same thing. So I guess its normal :shakes head:

Had that, fixed that, now my clutch is clicking not the axle, what now?

Is the pedal assembly clicking or is the sound coming from under the car?

It's the left rear axle that clunks on my 370 as the wheel starts to roll mostly going backwards,, My 32 year old daily driver 280ZXT has less wierd noises that a 60,000 mile 3 year old 370.. I should swap motors and sell it LOL.

A co worker of mine who worked at Nissan as a maintainer for about 6 years did a ride along with me and couldn't figure out what mine was. I'm going to take it in to the dealership and have them look at it, as the noise is becoming ridiculous while driving on a "cold" engine. Hopefully it's covered in the warranty.

1000km later with the RHS nut done up to 115Nm and still no click/clunk :)

If anyone has the adjusting cap and spring washer, it's pretty safe to torque it up in steps til the noise disappears.

Same axle is used in the plain nut + cotter pin models which take 185Nm according to the FSM. So the threads on the axles shouldn't get ruined with more torque. Maybe the nut.
You won't crush any bearings either, so no fear.
Just don't use a rattle gun.

Umm yep under the car, the click comes right after the car is in motion and i depress the clutch completely. That let go of the clutch is when the click sound comes, only when the car is cold after that its gone till next cold start every start.

Mine wasn't related to the clutch at all.
If I took off very slow and completely release the clutch, no issue.
Once I pushed the gas enough to push power on the axle, the left rear axle would click. Same sound for stronger downshifts.
It happened whether the car was warm or cold.
Luckily after several visits to Nissan dealership and one open case with Nissan customer support, they finally changed my left rear axle. Only the left unfortunately. Hopefully the right axle will hold since my warranty will expire in February 2014.
I love the car but the service and the warranty ethics are very weak to say the least.


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mine has clicked for 30k miles. i just pretend its some uber cool expensive two piece brake rotors.

Nissan pretty much figured out what mine was. I was slightly overdue for an oil change and when I took it in to get that done they thought it might be because I was 2 qts low on oil. Anyway, once they changed the oil it was good. Which explained why it would make the sound when it's cold and as the oil warmed up...it would go away.

Check your oil man, it's probably valve chatter.

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I have the exact same 'click' noise when I am driving from start. I am noticing lately that the clicking noise will happen as well as i down change gears at low speeds - i can hear it.....

I have 2009 6MT

Any news from Nissan anybody?Anything official?Technical information number?Have the same problem with 37.000. Bought used a month ago..:rolleyes:

been researching solutions to this irritating problem, short of doing up the nut waaaaay past the torque spec.

will report back in a few more 1000km as it's too early to celebrate with my current idea.

just had a new "Drive Shaft (carbon composite)" ordered before my 60k warranty is up. I took in today 57k miles to my Nissan tech and he found the clicking noise at low speeds and when shifting into park, drive and reverse. Told me he's ordered the Drive Shaft ($800+) free of charge no questions asked. :-) Guess im glad to have had a great relationship with not only my tech, but my service writer too! I always leave a $20 spot for them both to get lunch anytime I'm in the service bay.. anyhow Soon as its complete i'll update to confirm if it solves the clicking/clunking noise in the rear.

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I put last weekend some grease as suggested from the 350z owners but it did not do the trick. Do you guys have any other ideas?

did you use the correct type and amount?

i got rid of my annoying clicking with a Kawasaki axle nut. search for it on here ;) all the details are there

I used this one

1 Tube original Schmierfett Molybdänfett für Gleichlaufgenke Antriebswellen 90ml | eBay

but i said the problem is there when i brake in very low speed and not when i change direction forward or backword.