I should clarify myself here. It's not just air temps that are triggering this because I've had it happen on many occasions when the air temp outside wasn't hot, but was actually was cool. If you're running it hard long enough, keeping the revs up and the oil temp gets up past 220 more closer to 240-250, you will feel a power loss as the ECU cuts back the HP, especially in the lower RPM's, it's a dog. A regional rep at Nissan discussed this with me. The power comes back way up past 5K but it still isn't all there. This isn't just specific to the 370z either. I have friends with late model cars that are also very temperature sensitive and even the magazines have commented at times on modern cars pulling power back as they get hot. They ECU is attempting to protect the engine when the internal temps are getting high, since it knows there is more stress on everything. Manufacturers want to prevent failure and of course not have to spend $$ to fix things. Though if Nissan had been smart they would have just put coolers in all the 370z's to help with all the heat this motor creates. But not that many owners will ever get the temps up that high so they figured it's not worth the money.

And of course this isn't the only reason the power drops. I know the basics about how hot air effects combustion and that cooler are creates a denser burn putting more oxygen into the cylinder when it explodes. So yes, there will be a loss of power when the air gets hotter and hotter which happens even if the external air is cool since it has to travel through the intakes, manifold etc. And since the engine is getting hot inside the air will get hotter as it passes through and arrives in the cylinder to be burned. So of course all engines, even carbureted, which I've had many, will have some power loss when everything starts getting hot. And in carbureted motors you'll get detonation if it gets too hot and can blow stuff up easier because you don't have an ECU to say hold up buddy you're about to do some damage. But all this just happens to be compounded with modern days cars whose temps rise fast when they are smaller engines revving higher to create power more efficiently, especially if they are forced induction. So the Z is suffering from both normal power heat loss and the ECU cutting back power. I'm not sure if my original statement was taken out of context without this information meaning the car can't perform at 100% all the time without a cooler. I mean it won't perform at 100% when the temps are up around 240-250 because of multiple reasons, one being the ECU and the other the laws of physics.

So basically, to maintain the most possible HP from the Z an oil cooler will delay the above two processes when the heat is starting to build up giving you a bit more power, until you finally heat soak the entire system. That is what I meant by running at 100% performance for the given conditions that will present themselves. :excited:

Design question here,..but I dont see why they just dont make the AN fitting or pressed part longer in length so as to add more strength or areas of contact (crimp) so that there is less chance of bursting?

Anyways,..I got lines with fittings made by Mike,..they look really good too. But since I just did my first oil change at 1500 miles, Im going to do regular 3000mile oil changes till there is more certainty with this problem...

people, post oil temps with the outdoor ambient temps.....

Plenty of observations in my DIY (link in my sig.)

Thanks for the info but wanted to see what sort of temps people are getting without and with the the oil cooler and track temps of the oil temp. What was the out door temp at the time of the measurement was taken :).

There's plenty of that information, both in my thread and numerous others, if you take the time to search (and read).. Figure roughly a 20-25 degree reduction in most conditions with a standard sized cooler

without the oil cooler I'm seeing anywhere between 220-240+ even though its no hotter than 81 degrees outside. Furthermore I've burned about 1.5 quarts of Nissan Ester oil in the past 3000 miles. A few days ago I had her up to a short burst of 140+mph and I almost hit limp mode, just a small tick short. I agree you can feel the power loss as oil temps increase.

I ordered GTM's 25 row oil cooler yesterday, Sam called me earlier today and told me they were out of brackets so once that arrives in a few days they'll send it out so I'm guessing 2 weeks before it arrives. I'll be running the oil cooler with Motul 300V Power Racing. The internet moguls seem to be split on this oil, some say is runs cleaner, their exhaust tips showed no soot and 3000 miles later the oil was still clean. Others say that it shouldn't be used in anything not a race car. Motul says it's great for high reving engines and it's ester based so I think it'll go well.

I'm going to try to get to the dyno as soon as I get my LTH's and I drive around a bit to let the ecu reset. I think Tony shipped out #12 this week and I'm #14, once those babies are on we'll see how she does. Right now she's all stock minus test pipes and body work.

finally got my redline in so the cooler will be going back on friday and then off to the dyno saturday! i'll post up a new thread somewhere with my results.

I spoke to a dude from Z1 motorsports via email and he said they are no longer offering Aeroquip socketless hoses because they had someone with a hose blown off and it caused an engine failure. Now I don't know the details such as how he had them attached, whether it be zip ties or worm clamps. But who makes a good oil cooler kit whose hoses won't blow off or cause a leak? It seems like there are quite a few failures on this forum.

What company can you trust? I don't want an engine failure and I'm sure nobody else does as well.

i purchased the gtm competion one. I know some people had issues with gtm's hoses blowing out but if i remeber correctly gtm pulled them off the market and got better hoses. So for as trust wise, I have full trust in SAM at GTM. He is a great guy and doesn't try to sell you stuff you don't need, and also tells you what he honestly thinks. I know the one guy that had the gtm oil cooler in his car that ruptured the hose, GTM paid for the Tow, gave him the money back for the Oil, and I think offered him new hoses. IMO thats a stand up company that cares about customer satisfaction.
Frank

Yeah, I read all about how Sam backed his product. But that guy was lucky he had no engine damage because of the lost oil. My real worry is if an engine failure did occur, who would pay to get it fixed? I doubt GTM or the company who made the oil cooler kit would. I'm afraid that you would be out of luck and have to pay for it yourself.

It makes me a little skeptical, that's all. Not with GTM, but oil cooler kits overall. I need one to drive my Nismo aggressively but want one that won't fall apart either.

well if thats the case, don't buy one, make your own. Go read Modshack's DIY threads and he will give you play by play on how to do it. Any questions you have about doing I am sure he will be more then glade to answer, he seems to be a huge fan of people doing there own maintenance. Also I have yet to see a Serious post of someone needing help and he turned them away.

So these are the only options you have, buy one, make one, or don't get one lol. I think the best part about making one is you know what you have into it. what i mean is you know the quality of the product, and if it breaks you only have your self to blame. Good luck with what ever decision you make. If you buy one just stick to a rep-able company who has good products and customer service.
Frank

I have not read through the entire thread, but why not the Nismo oil cooler??

I could be wrong happens more often then I like but on another forum I think one of those had hose failures also. I guess the point is when you mass produce something, sometimes you don't get the perfectly round apple but instead you get the oval one, or the one with the worm in the middle. Parts fail, even new ones, any time you buy aftermarket parts you sometimes take the risk of something going bad. All you can do is do some research on companies and people who have the mod and try to lower the odd of it happening to you.
Frank

Maybe this will help sum it up. GTM's oil cooler setup had faulty lines, of course they stepped up and addressed the issue. I just installed their oil cooler last week, sorry I haven't had a chance to update my thread with pictures hopefully this weekend. The new lines are made by the same manufacturer as the core, namely Setrab. All I can say is that when I unpacked everything the lines are the first thing I went after and they are DIESEL! They will not explode, the workmanship and quality of the piece is 10/10. This leads me to believe that any subsequent explosion in an application such as mine would be by faulty install.

Get a cooler, the Z needs it, after getting the big GTM cooler I haven't seen 220 :). You're lines won't explode and it goes a long way toward maintaining engine life.