370Z Factory LSD: This thing is worse than I remembered
 

Admittedly, it's been a while since I've driven a car hard, that didn't have a mechanical aftermarket locking style LSD such as Carbonetic, OS Giken, Cusco, and others.

I took my first obligatory mountain cruise with my 370Z today, and immediately discovered just how horrible this LSD is for any type of performance use. Keep in mind, I wasn't pushing the car that hard, since this is a public road but it's performance left a lot to be desired. It felt one small step better than an open diff. On tight corners, on power exit the inside wheel just spun freely and would catch and grab in a horrible way.

Next on my shopping list is an LSD, because this car will not be fun on a road course. Our Time Attack 370Z has a Cabonetic 1.5 way and is brilliant. I might try the OSG on my car and see how it compares to the Carbonetic.

I am intersted to here everyone else opinion on the factory LSD.

who has already made lsds for our cars? I have the AT and Im noy sure if any are available.

For a street car, I have no issues with the LSD. You are spoiled with the GT-R :stirthepot:

I think it's OK.

well..even a cayman has an open diff...

If you weren't pushing it hard, why did you need the LSD? :)

Did you change your rear strut/sway?

I REALLY want the OSG LSD and have an open diff and I miss the VLSD from the factory it's so bad haha. Hopefully the OSG will satisfy my needs since it's my next mod then sways.

Yeah I heard the in lift is pretty bad! lol good luck with the clutch type.

How is the NISMO lsd kit different from the stock LSD? I've been eyeing that.

^pretty sure the Nismo 370Z has the same LSD as the sport package 'regular' 370Z. It just has a different diff cover.

The OEM LSD diff in the Nismo model 370Z is the same as the regular models.

For aftermarket, the best choices to consider are Carbonetic, and OS Giken, IMHO. There are others, but these two have the best performance and are least intrusive from a sound/grabbiness standpoint.

I am looking forward to trying out the OSG, since it doesn't require the very frequent fluid chances as needed by the Carbonetic diff. Might also be interesting to try the Carbonetic Metal diff, vs. the carbon diff that is popular.

Even on mountain twisties at 6/10th pace the difference is very noticable. If you rarely take the car to the twisties, then I am sure the OEM diff is fine for street use.

True. That's the same line of thought that I have with OSG being my choice due to the lower maintenance and OSG NEVER having to service one of their models along with no break in required..just seems better choice. The low intrusiveness also is a plus but everyone that has the Carbonetic raves over it and loves it(minus the frequent oil change). I too would be curious about the metal diff..

But is the one in the Nismo model the same as the Nismo kit you can buy - the one with the adjustable settings?

I always take the car to the twisties. That's why I bought it. Seriously, I'm not having any issues at all, I'm not some n00b, I'm race-trained in Formula Fords.

I have no doubt the LSDs mentioned above are much better than the viscous oem unit. But I think the oem LSD is quite adequate for street use. No mountain twisties around these parts, but lots of twisties, elevation changes and very challenging old New England roads. In fact, the most impressive thing about this car is it's predictability when exiting a corner at speed. Besides I like a little wheelspin, it's challenging and fun. :tup:

Without a percentage number e.g 40% lock capacity the compare discussion is use less.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limited_slip_differential

The technology of differentials and LSDs

Making things worser than they are should not sell other things better :p

P.S: a VLSD has normaly a curve delta wheelspin to torque % transferred to the otherside

Sources will help to compare

^agree

CARBON CLUTCH - CARBONETIC - ACROSS Official Website

no curves

CARBON CLUTCH - CARBONETIC - ACROSS Official Website

no curves

and both look like they have only motor a cycle clutch inside --- cheap and heavy
after market desinged cnc stuff... maybe not bad.. who knows
and i think the carbon clutch is only for longer duration than normal motor cycle clutch types

if you make a lot of motor cylcle power weehlies from the light line the normal clutch burns out and loose the grip...thats all
by the way all europen cars are sold with VLSD and the big brakes (PACK or not)

So are the OS Giken more stock feeling the Quiafe? Also does anyone know what LSDs are out there for us 7AT guys? I have no lsd now so from what I can have found out that if I want to add a LSD and change gear ratios I would need to buy a 350Z pumkin too. If I just go LSD do I still need to buy the 350Z pumkin?

What mtn route did you go Sharif?

No the Nismo aftermarket diff is a nasty race-like clutch style LSD. Pretty harsh and noisy so I don't recommend it for most people.

The OEM diff in my Nismo 370Z is the same as the other VLSD's on the 370Z. Nothing special to it.

Like I said in my journal ages ago, the stock lsd sucks, its just awful and completely unpredictable. One of my next mods is going to be that carbonetics 1.5 since some of you folks are having good luck with it.

I inquired about a new diff the last time my mechanic worked on the car. He said "no problem" but noted that a diff change is a real PITA. Said it's one of his least favorite things to do. Apparently it takes a lot of trial-and-error with shims to get things aligned properly.

Yeah, it does add a little excitement. :)

I would not be surprised if you dropped a full second with the LSD installed.

Hmm, that's not what I want to here. Guess I'll be taking it to my mechanic for that one rather than attempting it myself.

The unpredictable grab and release behavior in the stock viscous unit is what I can't stand. I have one long sharp corner that I take on the way to work and if you push it a little it will grab and release 3 or 4 times. Not exactly confidence inspiring.

The current aftermarket diffs are machined so precisely, that in only 1 case have we had to order different shims, especially given that everyone's OEM ring/pinion will be in low mileage/good condition. As long as he is experienced in working with rear ends, this isn't really that difficult of an install.

come on pick up the factory manual, a tube of marking paint, match stamp the caps so you don't put the wrong one on the wrong side and do work. On a new car most fit right away or are just a little off. you just assemble, torque, check with marking paint and if it doesn't run right in the middle of the pinion take the rear end in to a shop and have them shim it if you are lazy. My vote is quaife unlimted lifetime warranty and it doesn't require clutch changes.

Thanks! Ok I'm feeling a little more confident after finding this DIY for a 350Z Carbonetic which I imagine is identical.
http://www.350zmotoring.com/forums/d...tall-pics.html

The part that isn't clear to me is how you use the marking paint to ensure center alignment. Can you explain that part in a little more detail?

The problem with Quaife, etc. is that (I think) you have to cut up the stub shafts...that's a big selling point, to me, for the Nismo unit. It comes with new shafts.

Or go with the Carbonetic or OS Giken that uses the stock shafts.

Good to know - thanks.

Stock DIff Issues
 

Yep... too bad Nissan only offers a base ,sport package instead of having the customer spec the Z! Likely Zs would come without radios, limited diffs, better/wider tires/wheels, springs/shocks/sways, BBK,etc.

I just purchased an LSD for my Base model Z. Does anyone know where I can get output shafts so I can install the LSD? Is there anything else I will need?

There is one LSD in particular that is designed for the Base that includes everything. You will have to talk to your vendor to see if they can source the shafts for you.

Which LSD did you get? If you'd like to email me the specifics I would be happy to help you out. sharif@forgedperformance.com

i ordered my quaife from z1 motorsports for my sport model and they are sending along the stub shaft for it all in one box

I have about 2500 miles on my OS Giken and I'm loving it. In ax the car hooks up like you can't believe. Pretty much goes unnoticed on the street with exception of real slow parking lot speeds doing sharp turns. It occasionally clicks when doing slow tight turns.

It depends a lot on how you drive the car. I drive mine extremely hard on twisties in the mountains, but I am not driving like on a race track where it's full brakes into the corner and full power out, for me the challenge and fun is carrying corner speed, not full g's into or out of the corner. In between the corners (if there is any) I am enjoying the view. At the limit of cornering force, you'd be hitting the traction control with more than neutral throttle anyway (and I would never do TC off on tricky unpredictable mountain roads, often damp and with moss). So I would not ever likely spin up in inside wheel. Also doesn't our car brake the inside wheel if it spins anyway? Have fun you maniacs.

:iagree:100%