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-   -   Gallery Gasket Time? (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/136963-gallery-gasket-time.html)

Rojoryu 11-19-2021 06:06 PM

Gallery Gasket Time?
 
1 Attachment(s)
Just installed a pressure gauge today so I could stay on top off this. Getting 11 PSI when warmed up, 45 psi at 2k rpms. I’m guessing this means the gaskets are on their way out? I also checked oil level to confirm it wasn’t low.

Rusty 11-19-2021 06:42 PM

I'm surprised your oil light isn't on.

Quicksilvers 11-20-2021 11:50 AM

Yes usually the oil light will come on. The motor oil level has nothing to do with the gallery gaskets leaking. When the gallery gaskets leak the oil pressure will drop. Getting an oil pressure gauge is always a good idea. I see you have an 11’ what is your current mileage? Since everything will be apart and you will already be in there do yourself a favor a install new timing chain,gaskets,guides, tensioner,water pump, and aftermarket oil pump gears. You don’t want to have to go in there a second time. I would go with the EPS rear timing cover gallery gasket kit or Genuine Nissan.

Rojoryu 11-20-2021 04:45 PM

1 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Quicksilvers (Post 4014074)
Yes usually the oil light will come on. The motor oil level has nothing to do with the gallery gaskets leaking. When the gallery gaskets leak the oil pressure will drop. Getting an oil pressure gauge is always a good idea. I see you have an 11’ what is your current mileage? Since everything will be apart and you will already be in there do yourself a favor a install new timing chain,gaskets,guides, tensioner,water pump, and aftermarket oil pump gears. You don’t want to have to go in there a second time. I would go with the EPS rear timing cover gallery gasket kit or Genuine Nissan.

Thanks. It has 80k miles. I referred to checking the oil level only to confirm that the oil level wasn’t the cause of low oil pressure, and in fact points to gallery gaskets. I was literally about to post asking if I should go ahead and do oil gears, so thank you! I already have a gasket kit from Z1. Here is what I got done today.

nis350 11-20-2021 09:20 PM

Just curious what other symptoms for the gallery gasket failure for those who don't have the oil pressure gauge?

Did Nissan use the same inferior gallery gasket on the 350z motor? I assume they(350z) all had failed by now.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rojoryu (Post 4014036)
Just installed a pressure gauge today so I could stay on top off this. Getting 11 PSI when warmed up, 45 psi at 2k rpms. I’m guessing this means the gaskets are on their way out? I also checked oil level to confirm it wasn’t low.


Rojoryu 11-21-2021 03:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by nis350 (Post 4014116)
Just curious what other symptoms for the gallery gasket failure for those who don't have the oil pressure gauge?

Did Nissan use the same inferior gallery gasket on the 350z motor? I assume they(350z) all had failed by now.

The same style gasket was used on the 350z, and on the 370z up until the 2012 model when they upgraded to a better gasket material/hardware. Even still, plenty of 350z's are still on the road with stock gaskets. Just luck of the draw I guess. I have read others having low pressure codes and the dash light, but apparently at that point it may be too late and the engine could be damaged. For me, I had no symptoms. From reading on these forums I figured it would be a good measure to add a pressure gauge since this will be primarily a track car.

nis350 11-21-2021 01:28 PM

I recalled looking to buy an 350z long ago and never heard about the gallery gasket issues. I think the same V6 is also used in other models like the g35, g37, Maxima and Altma etc.... Any idea about the percentage of failure rate?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rojoryu (Post 4014124)
The same style gasket was used on the 350z, and on the 370z up until the 2012 model when they upgraded to a better gasket material/hardware. Even still, plenty of 350z's are still on the road with stock gaskets. Just luck of the draw I guess. I have read others having low pressure codes and the dash light, but apparently at that point it may be too late and the engine could be damaged. For me, I had no symptoms. From reading on these forums I figured it would be a good measure to add a pressure gauge since this will be primarily a track car.


Rojoryu 11-21-2021 02:49 PM

1 Attachment(s)
We’ll there we have the culprit…

Rusty 11-21-2021 05:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rojoryu (Post 4014162)
We’ll there we have the culprit…

The screw that is shown in the red circle. The edge of that screw and the other screws that hold everything down. You will want to take a center punch to that edge and put a dimple on that edge and into the metal. If you want to feel really safe. Put another punch mark 180 degrees from it. This will keep the screws from backing out and loosening.

Rojoryu 11-22-2021 05:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 4014170)
The screw that is shown in the red circle. The edge of that screw and the other screws that hold everything down. You will want to take a center punch to that edge and put a dimple on that edge and into the metal. If you want to feel really safe. Put another punch mark 180 degrees from it. This will keep the screws from backing out and loosening.

Thanks for the suggestion, Rusty. I planned to used some blue loctite and torque down to 11ish lbs, I assume that's not an issue? Does the dimple work by deforming the head of the screw just enough to lock it in place?

I don't want to be that new guy who over posts but I plan to throw some pictures up today to confirm my chain is aligned with the markings correctly before I pull it off. I have been hand turning this thing forever and havent gotten close yet. I'm tempted to mark things where they are now and just remove it.

Rusty 11-22-2021 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rojoryu (Post 4014204)
Thanks for the suggestion, Rusty. I planned to used some blue loctite and torque down to 11ish lbs, I assume that's not an issue? Does the dimple work by deforming the head of the screw just enough to lock it in place?

I don't want to be that new guy who over posts but I plan to throw some pictures up today to confirm my chain is aligned with the markings correctly before I pull it off. I have been hand turning this thing forever and havent gotten close yet. I'm tempted to mark things where they are now and just remove it.

The dimple displaces metal to lock it. It's standard practice on some equipment.

Take pictures. They will help you. I take pictures all the time when working on something.

Rojoryu 11-22-2021 01:59 PM

8 Attachment(s)
Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 4014244)
The dimple displaces metal to lock it. It's standard practice on some equipment.

Take pictures. They will help you. I take pictures all the time when working on something.

I took pics of EVERYTHING. After pulling the primary chain off everything moved around a little but I haven't touched the secondaries so I'm not too concerned. I honestly don't feel too confident changing the secondaries out. I should have the boundary gears, new chain, water pump, thermostat, etc tomorrow or Wednesday so I will be able to button it up soon. Here are the pics I took before removing it.

Rojoryu 11-23-2021 04:16 PM

Well, I think I made a pretty stupid mistake. When I was turning the motor over by hand to time it, I didnt use the pulley or a spacer, I just put the bolt directly into the crankshaft. When I went to pull the bolt out after timing it I noticed it was a little tough coming out. And now it wants to bind up going back it after a few turns. I ordered a new bolt, but my fear is that I damaged the threads in the crankshaft. I assume I can chase the threads if that's the case but it's not something I have any experience with. Any suggestions?

redondoaveb 11-23-2021 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rojoryu (Post 4014363)
Well, I think I made a pretty stupid mistake. When I was turning the motor over by hand to time it, I didnt use the pulley or a spacer, I just put the bolt directly into the crankshaft. When I went to pull the bolt out after timing it I noticed it was a little tough coming out. And now it wants to bind up going back it after a few turns. I ordered a new bolt, but my fear is that I damaged the threads in the crankshaft. I assume I can chase the threads if that's the case but it's not something I have any experience with. Any suggestions?

I wonder if the bolt bottomed out in the crankshaft and smashed the first couple of threads on the bolt. Hopefully pulling the bolt out didn't damage the crankshaft threads but I wouldn't think so. Fingers crossed

Jhill 11-23-2021 04:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rojoryu (Post 4014363)
Well, I think I made a pretty stupid mistake. When I was turning the motor over by hand to time it, I didnt use the pulley or a spacer, I just put the bolt directly into the crankshaft. When I went to pull the bolt out after timing it I noticed it was a little tough coming out. And now it wants to bind up going back it after a few turns. I ordered a new bolt, but my fear is that I damaged the threads in the crankshaft. I assume I can chase the threads if that's the case but it's not something I have any experience with. Any suggestions?

Once you get the new bolt so you no longer need the old one you can clean the threads up on the old bolt and cut 2-4 slots lengthwise on the old bolt and use it as a thread chaser to clean up the crank.


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