I use to do it all the time when I was a Tech. No biggy. My neck or knees are not good like they were. Freaking sucks. I can't do what I want to.

Sucks getting old :tiphat:

Neat. Those would appear to be the cruise control and clutch pedal switches that I had tested. Never thought about the adjustment for them. The tests I did should have ruled them out as the problem. I've got nothing to lose playing with them some more though. I'll report back with any findings.

You need to fully depress the clutch pedal to make sure it is closing the push pin all the way. If it is a little bit off, It will not make the contact close. Only then will the clutch inhibitor relay work properly if our car even has one. The older Nissans have for years. Fixed a many...

I haven't had time to toy with them yet. The pedal is definitely actuating the switch fully though. Through the tuning software, you can watch the ECU "seeing" that the switch is being triggered open and closed.

The one for the cruise control on my Z needs adjusted. My cruise is hit or miss. Depends on how I bring the clutch pedal back.

I will definitely play with both of the switches.

Thanks a bunch of the feedback guys. Keep it coming please!

Maybe a visual aide can bring this problem back from the dead.

Still the same issues as before. To recap, I've replaced and/or tested the following: new battery, clutch interlock switch, neutral safety switch, wheel lock (non-existent), new starter control relay, starter tested SAT at auto store, and a new start button. I have tried my usual, and back up, key FOB, both in and out of the key slot and with a new battery. All fuses and relays have been good. I replaced the IPDM E/R fuse box with a secondhand replacement with no change, though I cannot guarantee it was in working order before being installed. I've tested bits of wiring looms and ground points as indicated in the diagrams. Everything I have tested has been good with the exception of the 12V leaving the IPDM E/R fuse box to the starter "S" terminal. Obviously if I had that, I wouldn't be here now. I've traced the 12V all the way to the starter control relay in the IPDM E/R fuse box. It would seem the relay is not receiving the control signal to close the relay. Unfortunately, Nissan doesn't want anyone to know what goes on in their magic boxes, so I'm at a loss where I can trace the control signal to. I've broken open the secondhand fuse box for science and it's more of a computer than a fuse box. So theoretically, the control signal could be getting lost absolutely anywhere in the car and with my current equipment, I have no way of tracing it any farther.

I've toyed with the idea of just jumping the starter control relay or even the starter/solenoid itself, but I have a feeling it's going to end up destroying even more if the car starts when the car is under the impression it is not "supposed" to be starting.

Any techie gurus out there know enough about the wiring to help trace where the starter control relay is losing is control control signal, stopping the relay from closing? I'm pretty over replacing every bit of this car one piece at a time at this point. Anyone want a free paperweight in the shape of a car?

I went back to the beginning and re-read everything and I have a few thoughts:

• If you are in the car and don't depress the clutch, press the Start button once.
• Do you hear the steering wheel unlock?
• Does the start button illuminate "Acc" ?

If the steering wheel doesn't unlock, the engine will not start or turnover.


• When troubleshooting unusual problems (like this one!) you can't assume anything. I think you should check for 12v at the "S Connector" wire at the starter and at the IPDM/ER, when someone pushes the start button.

If you want to get the engine to crank over to verify the starter, you could:
• Remove the fuel pump fuse (in IPDM/ER)
• At the starter, disconnect the small wire on the S terminal
• Use a long wire (ideally with a 5-10 amp fuse inline with it) to run from the battery positive terminal and touch the S terminal on the starter.
• Engine should crank only for as long as you are touching the S terminal with 12v.

Thanks for the response.

To address your first thought, no. There is no steering wheel lock at all. Nissan stopped installing them in 2011. I have confirmed that there is no module at all under the steering wheel, the fuse is non-existent in the IPDM E/R fuse box, and the wheel does not lock at all.

For your next thought, the start button works as normal. Both the old and new one. If the clutch pedal is NOT depressed, and the start button pressed once, it turns "acc" on". Press a second time and it shifts to "on". A third press turns the car off. Everything in that respect appears perfectly operational. When the clutch pedal IS depressed, it hops across "acc" for less than a second and stops on "on". This is usually where the starter would be engaged and the engine turns over. But as far as the start button goes, everything tests normal.

I have assumed nothing. You may have misread previous posts. I have tested for the 12V going to the starter "S" terminal at multiple locations. It is GOOD going INTO the starter control relay. I have tested pin 80 LEAVING the IPDM E/R (because I can't test the relay directly while it is installed). No 12V.

I appreciate your input for jumping the starter. But as stated, the starter has been tested and is fully operational. It is just receiving the signal to allow it to turn over. I also stated in my last post I COULD jump the starter, but due to all the electrical fuckery going on in this car, I wouldn't be surprised if more stuff breaks tryign out that test.

Sorry for misunderstanding about the starter wire.
It sounds like the fuses, power and wiring are ok...

Does the BCM code B26E8 still come back after clearing it?
The FSM is states (2016 370z BCS-98) that a B26E8 code will "Inhibit engine cranking"

No problem. There's so much going on in this mess of a starting system. I am constantly second guessing and rechecking everything over and over.

The code does return. FSM says that it is the clutch interlock switch. Unfortunately, I believe this to be one of those very vague codes that could be many different issues. If you trace that schematic, I've traced the 12V from the battery, through the clutch interlock, through the BCM, to the IPDM E/R fuse box, and through the fuse box up until the starter control relay (which is not closing as it is not receiving the necessary signal to close the relay). I believe the code is being thrown because the starter control relay is not receiving the signal to shut. Unfortunately, I have no way of knowing where and why that signal is being lost.

Have you tried to bump start it or with the electrical fuckery going on you don't want to try that?

You have a stumper going on. I have dealt with one like this. It was a burn't connector in the main harness. You will need to trace every wire going to and from the clutch inhibitor switch at the clutch pedal and ohm them out. You can try to jump the switch and see if it will crank that way.

I remember that Quest van well. I was out sick with 104 deg fever back in 1999. When I finally dragged my beat to death butt into work 3 days later that van was sitting in my bay. Service manager said I don't care what you do today, just fix that van. I felt rough. Customers were raising the roof. I brought the burn connector I replaced to him to give to the customer. Electrical gremlins can be tough. Hang in there.