Question? What happen to the other bolts? :confused:

If you have a grinder. You can grind down the bolts to length. If you don't want to do that. And want to use a shim. Any mild steel washer will work.

I don’t trust myself to use a grinder.

I'd just cut it to length with a band saw or hack saw and then dress the cut end with a grinder or file. YMMV

Found a company $250 bucks for 8 bolts

:eek:

$31.25 a bolt. Bend me over. :icon23: Please use a reach around and whisper sweet nothings in my ear.

Where did you find them at?

That’s just for the rears. Might have to buy front as well.

Ok.

BUT what happen to the original bolts? :confused:

He had a Hulk moment. He's my parts hoarding protege so if he gets all those bolts at least I have spares available if I ever need it.

Did the bolts from post #6 not work, or are you just still looking for the exact same ones?

Followed the stupid diy on the forum, over torqued them to 80ft lbs.

They are but 5mm shorter then oem. I have a track day in 3 weeks. I don’t want to risk anything backing out, or second guessing anything.

If it was just a street drag car I would worry about it.

I see no reason to not use the JIS screws you have selected from McMaster-Carr as long as the flange heads fit. Just cut them to size as suggested. Its pretty hard to mess it up honestly.
When installing, just make sure the male and female threads are clean, as well as the bottom of screw head and its mating surface on the caliper so that the amount of preload on the fastener is consistent with the torque value you decide on.

Edit: With the larger flange heads, this will cause a slightly higher percentage of the tightening torque to be used in overcoming the friction under the flange head so to achieve the same amount of preload as oem you would probably tighten them to a slightly higher torque value.