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Slave cylinder 2013 370Z

Bleeding is pretty straight-forward ... just follow the "pump-and-hold" method. In other words, have the person in the driver's seat, pump the clutch pedal several times and then hold it

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Old 05-14-2018, 03:39 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Bleeding is pretty straight-forward ... just follow the "pump-and-hold" method. In other words, have the person in the driver's seat, pump the clutch pedal several times and then hold it to the floor. While the pedal is held to the floor, the second person needs to open up the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to drain. Once the fluid has squirted out, close the bleeder screw. Repeat the process several times to remove all of the old fluid and any air that might be in the system. One person will need to check the fluid level in the reservoir regularly to ensure that fluid remains in it at all times (... otherwise air will be introduced into the system, and you will have to start over). Any good quality DOT4 fluid will work. I use ATE TYP200 Amber. A lot of folks use Motul RBF600. Some folks use Castrol Racing Fluid. Consider bleeding the system a temporary fix only. The loss of pedal pressure usually signals that either the CSC and/or CMC is on its way out. The bleeding will usually buy you some time, but you may want to consider replacing the CSC with a heavy duty version from Z Speed Performance (either the internal HD CSC or external CMAK unit) and/or a heavy duty CMC from RJM Performance in the near future to avoid being stranded. Good luck.
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