I have the stillen CBE and Z1 high flow cats. I love the sound. There's no annoying drone when cruising and it sounds awesome when you open it up! If you go with test pipes, you'll more than likely be getting drone when just crusing. ( don't know for a fact. some TP guys chime in on that.) it's all about what YOU want, there is no best or right answer.

I have a 2015 Nismo.

Mods: Stillen Gen 3 intakes - $600, eBay test pipes - $115, Top Speed Pro-1 axle back exhaust - $300, ACT Lightweight Steel Flywheel (17.4lbs) - $400 (though I'm not sure this attributed to any power gains)

Finally I got my car dyno tuned at Dynosty. I baselined at 311whp on a Dynojet dyno before the tune. With my Ecutek tune I ended up at 325whp. The total cost of the tune including dyno time, tuning license, and tuner cable-which you don't need to purchase if you're getting it dyno tuned-was around $1,000. It would have been $300 cheaper had I opted to not buy the cable.

I've read stock Nismos usually dyno anywhere between 290-300whp. So for around $2k, give or take a few hundred dollars, you can add over 30whp with ease. Without a tune you could easily get over 300whp for around $1k. I hope this helps.

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Thats gonna be my biggest problem is finding somewhere that i can trust to tune my car correctly, im pretty much gonna go with either fi or md cbe with indivia or art test pipes, and stillen gen 3 cais

In all honestly im just looking to get as close to 320ish whp as i can get for around 2500ish(give or take a couple hundred)

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Z1 motorsports(east coast) or specialty Z (west coast) imho.

Z1 would be for me but it looks like they are located in georgia, i live in the southeasten part of michigan

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There's a lot of tuners who can tune you remotely.

What do you mean remotely? Sorry this will be my first tune on a car so im not very knowledgeable about that type of stuff

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Im ocd as well so ill end up being picky as to who tunes my car

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You log a few runs on the car and email them to the tuner, who then sends you a map. You do that a couple of times and you're good. It's a NA Z with bolt-ons, there's just not that much to it.

My favorite 3 mods so far are:

Oil cooler (Stillen)
Lightweight performance brake rotors (Z1)
LSD differential (Wavetrac)

That lathewerks shift knob tho...


I have one too :tup:

Sounds a bit more complicated lol, but ill definitely look into it thanks

On a side note(to anyone)...with the a7, is there anyway the tc/vdc can be can tuned out to where i dont have to pull my brake light fuse to burn out? Havent really tried to burnout yet til i can afford new tires when i get my taxes but a few forums ive read said i have to pull the brake light fuse to be able to "fully" burnout

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not confusing at all, super simple :tup:


wait.. you have to pull a fuse to burn out? In my G37 I was able to all day long by just switching VDC off.

Im seeing "yes" and "no" answers, appearently some people were having problems doing burnouts because the tc would still kick in enough even with vdc off.

I know i for one, was stopped at a stop light and turned vdc off and got the tires to spin but not much, almost like the tc was still trying to turn on...but then again i didnt exactly floor it either lol

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Z1 Motorsport has the 400 hp kit which is all good

I love my quaife differential

I love my SS Braided brake lines

I love the Z1 big brakes upgrade (especially on track days)

I put in a lightweight flywheel (6mt only) it really helped the motor response. (Faster revving for shifting)

I recommend a tunable clutch pedal Or at least removal of helper spring

TAKE OUT YOUR STEERING LOCK!!!!!!!