Nissan 370Z Forum - Billet Dry Sump VQ37VHR

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- - Billet Dry Sump VQ37VHR (http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/117475-billet-dry-sump-vq37vhr.html)

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elmo370z (Post 3606384)

Will this pump be tested in real world conditions before released to the market?
How much more do you think it will cost?

Our VQ35DE gears have been out a year now, the 370z gears will be the same material. At 8600rpm we are seeing 6bar of pressure, this is in a race application, no street driving. We'll have some VHR builds running our pumpsite, just waiting on us to release to public. Well the Nismo is $1299 if I remember correctly, so target price will be less than that. That way you get more for your money.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elmo370z (Post 3604301)

I wouldn't recommend unless you really plan on tracking the car hard or plan on making some serious power( you are going boost:stirthepot:). It's 7 grand minus the AN fittings and lines and you lose your A/C, but that could always be worked around. So at the end of the day you're looking closer to $10,000 for MAM sump. Just giving my unworthy 2 cents

What happens with the OEM oil pump when you go the dry sump route? Does it just stay as is?

Quote:

Originally Posted by DOOMMONKEY777 (Post 3605895)

Why the draining is on one side only? So does this mean that if I am making a loong opposite of the draining turn where all the oil will be pushed to one side, will the crank whip it in to foam and destroy the engine and/plus the draining tubes go vaccum due to oil being pushed to opposite side?

Just wanting to clarify if this is an Engineering disaster.(or not)

The suction ports are onthe windage side of the engine the crank feeds them. Also it doesnt work quite that way the reserve size of the tank is the most important thing and the pan is definetly not the most important part of the kit its the pump followed by the crank setup, pump mount and drive, and vacuum regulation so you dont instantly destroy all the rotating seals in the engine and score the piston by drying the cylinder walls. Oh and filtration and pressure drop between pump and block oil inlet. The pan could literally be a modified factory pan with with the pickup and lower pan removed and welded off and some -12 bungs welded to the side. Just wouldnt work as efficiently.

A good 4 stage pump is north of $2k and the tanks filters lines and other misc stuff for install will run you another 1500-2000. Also dont forget the 12qt $140 oil changes those hp6a oilfilters aint cheap