Also, what about a dirty/plugged fuel filter? Just throwing that out there.

I was definitely thinking that too haha I'm planning on getting my fuel pump swapped out next week :). Btw the filter is fitted in the pump correct?

Car doesn't have an inline fuel filter. For this car, regular treatment with a quality fuel system cleaner is a good idea.



I've noticed the air boxes tend to pick up odd stuff, might not be a bad idea to replace air filters and clean out the box. :twocents:

Yeah I see your logic brother I thought the same exact thing when I used a "powerful/concentrated full fuel system cleaner" in combination with an oil treatment that goes hand in hand with the fuel cleaner. And we'll after using it that's when I began to have issues with my car starting up :/. In summary, I believe the cleaner caused my pump or filter to fail/clog. So honestly I'm a little iffy about using "good quality/concentrated cleaners :(. I do agree with you on the air boxes though I've seen more dirt in those that I'd can comfortably tolerate but I guess that's just how these cars are.

Again, I've noticed this problem slightly goes away when I clean my MAF sensors. But I still have issues when I want to accelerate full speed I lose power at 3500 RPMs EVERY time EVERY gear.

Clean the throttle bodies. I cleaned them around 40,000 miles and they were gummed up a pretty good amount. It helps, but it doesn't completely get rid of the rev drop. For me its only noticeable when the motor is hot and its 90+ outside.

I think it is the throttle bodies as well, however, my dealer will not clean them. They said they are clean, but I don't believe them. I gave them three videos of the car stalling and still no luck. This is the fourth visit to the dealer. I am very frustrated.

I do run Mobil One full synthetic in the car. I ran some cleaner through it on the last fill up. That did not seem to make a difference in the stalling. Maybe I should keep doing it every fill up?

Dude, sea foam your car. I just did that and I swear it nearly did the trick. Just clean out every thing. Intakes, throttles, fuel injectors, MAF sensors and oil and I'd suggest looking into possibly updating your pulley system. Possibly.

Clean your throttle body. Exact issue with my g37. Cleared the headache after. Dealer could not replicate either until another tech took a chance at it. I have not experienced it with the Z.

Would you have a diy for cleaning throttle body? Or would you be able to give me some insight as to how to go about cleaning them? Example, using a brush or using a towel? Is water ok or should I use a special spray/chemical? I'm thinking of doing it soon so it's be big help!

More than one TB cleaning DIY on this site. Search is your friend.

Those guys........... :shakes head:

Dealership = Pack of hyenas in search of an easy meal.

clean the throttle body. take a rag hold open the gate and spray wd-40 on the rag and start wiping out the build up. mine cleans up real good using this method.

Updating the pulley system won't do a thing for the stalling problem.

Since this car has no inline fuel filter, it is imperative that things are kept clean. I use the small bottle of Lucas Fuel injector cleaner with every tank and I put a can of seafoam in the gas once a month. Some will call this 'overkill', but I've done it on all cars that have no inline fuel filter and it works. No hesitation, good fuel economy through 150k miles (not that fuel economy is an issue for most Z owners). My last car was a 2004 Malibu with a V6, and when I traded it in with 150k on the clock, it still got 36 mpg on the highway....

FWIW...:tiphat:

OP might want to change the type of oil he is using as well....on my previous Z i found out very quickly that mobil 1 is useless in these cars once they get up to temp....it basically turns into water, some people seem to not have that issue though