Starts, almost stalls out, then catches
 

I have a 2010 370Z Roadster, Auto, with 44,000 miles. I have been having a problem with the car almost stalling out, then catching, for almost six months now. It has actually shut off several times. I have taken it to the dealer three times and they can't get it to do it, so they can't fix it. Any suggestions on what I can tell the dealer, other than clean the throttle bodies, they say they are clean? I even wrote to Nissan USA this morning in hopes that they know about the problem and can advise. Thanks, Amy

I'd record it on video to show them

I did, but they said it had to do it for them.

So like this kind of? I'm having the same prob :/. I carry starter fluid because of the same thing. I've noticed when I clean my MAF sensors it reduces the lag and every time I do a retune on the Uprev. So I'm thinking it has to do with the intake system.

https://vimeo.com/160466850

Try to reprogram your idle. It's kind of easy to do your self or tell the dealer to do it. It could help at least a little in the mean time. Or get a tune since this could be the fuel air mixture having issues.

Don't you just hate having to prove a problem to the dealer? Also educating them on research you did! Seems to be the normal today :)

Dirty throttle bodies?


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Theyll do anything to not have to perform warranty work..

Having this problem too I have a 2010 with 45k miles. I notice if it rev it upon start up it stops the engine from dying.

I have same issue as well, probably for last 2 years, happens couple of times a month, often after I've driven for the first time that day...going only a few miles before stopping, doing some stuff for 5-15 minutes, getting back in and starting...engine doesn't seem to catch enough to stay going. Start it again while giving it some gas pedal right after the start and all is good. I've got a 2010 Touring Auto.

The exact same issue. My buddy was telling me to check the pulley system

i have a 14' AUTO with 9k miles and it does this. My mods are stillen g3 and berk res TP'S . I am getting annoyed that it keeps happening.

Uh, No. Pulleys won't cause your problem..... :shakes head:

He said it worked for him? Idk

On a car of that age and mileage dirty air filters or a small vacuum leak could be the problem. You might want to check for any pending dtc codes which haven't turned the MIL light on yet. A general going over should turn up the problem but that might be too expensive to have done at a dealer. Let us know what happens and good luck.

Also, what about a dirty/plugged fuel filter? Just throwing that out there.

I was definitely thinking that too haha I'm planning on getting my fuel pump swapped out next week :). Btw the filter is fitted in the pump correct?

Car doesn't have an inline fuel filter. For this car, regular treatment with a quality fuel system cleaner is a good idea.



I've noticed the air boxes tend to pick up odd stuff, might not be a bad idea to replace air filters and clean out the box. :twocents:

Yeah I see your logic brother I thought the same exact thing when I used a "powerful/concentrated full fuel system cleaner" in combination with an oil treatment that goes hand in hand with the fuel cleaner. And we'll after using it that's when I began to have issues with my car starting up :/. In summary, I believe the cleaner caused my pump or filter to fail/clog. So honestly I'm a little iffy about using "good quality/concentrated cleaners :(. I do agree with you on the air boxes though I've seen more dirt in those that I'd can comfortably tolerate but I guess that's just how these cars are.

Again, I've noticed this problem slightly goes away when I clean my MAF sensors. But I still have issues when I want to accelerate full speed I lose power at 3500 RPMs EVERY time EVERY gear.

Clean the throttle bodies. I cleaned them around 40,000 miles and they were gummed up a pretty good amount. It helps, but it doesn't completely get rid of the rev drop. For me its only noticeable when the motor is hot and its 90+ outside.

I think it is the throttle bodies as well, however, my dealer will not clean them. They said they are clean, but I don't believe them. I gave them three videos of the car stalling and still no luck. This is the fourth visit to the dealer. I am very frustrated.

I do run Mobil One full synthetic in the car. I ran some cleaner through it on the last fill up. That did not seem to make a difference in the stalling. Maybe I should keep doing it every fill up?

Dude, sea foam your car. I just did that and I swear it nearly did the trick. Just clean out every thing. Intakes, throttles, fuel injectors, MAF sensors and oil and I'd suggest looking into possibly updating your pulley system. Possibly.

Clean your throttle body. Exact issue with my g37. Cleared the headache after. Dealer could not replicate either until another tech took a chance at it. I have not experienced it with the Z.

Would you have a diy for cleaning throttle body? Or would you be able to give me some insight as to how to go about cleaning them? Example, using a brush or using a towel? Is water ok or should I use a special spray/chemical? I'm thinking of doing it soon so it's be big help!

More than one TB cleaning DIY on this site. Search is your friend.

Those guys........... :shakes head:

Dealership = Pack of hyenas in search of an easy meal.

clean the throttle body. take a rag hold open the gate and spray wd-40 on the rag and start wiping out the build up. mine cleans up real good using this method.

Updating the pulley system won't do a thing for the stalling problem.

Since this car has no inline fuel filter, it is imperative that things are kept clean. I use the small bottle of Lucas Fuel injector cleaner with every tank and I put a can of seafoam in the gas once a month. Some will call this 'overkill', but I've done it on all cars that have no inline fuel filter and it works. No hesitation, good fuel economy through 150k miles (not that fuel economy is an issue for most Z owners). My last car was a 2004 Malibu with a V6, and when I traded it in with 150k on the clock, it still got 36 mpg on the highway....

FWIW...:tiphat:

OP might want to change the type of oil he is using as well....on my previous Z i found out very quickly that mobil 1 is useless in these cars once they get up to temp....it basically turns into water, some people seem to not have that issue though

Again, I am making the suggestion because my buddy, whom you must know well, birdman71, suggested this since his car had a similar issue and got fixed by swapping pulleys.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-j...hitno78899.gif

http://www.the370z.com/nissan-370z-w...le-bodies.html

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...fter-stop.html

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ttle-body.html

G37 Same thing. Seems like this would be the most helpful.

Can add me to this list. Went to the dealership last month with same issue they recommended changing the battery,which I did. Next day car acted up again. I have a k&n typhoon. I gave the maf'sensor a cleaning and once again now 2wKS later same issue. I went to the dealership again today and they looked at me like I was hearing/seeing things. Has anyone Had any luck luck with any of the recommendations here?

After throttle body and mafs, don't forget to clean the manifold air pressure sensors(MAP). This is a must and only take a good spraying with maf cleaner and then letting it drip all the nasty out and let it dry for a few minutes.

Happened to me today and I got it on video. I tried to upload and I can't do it. A buddy of mine is a service Mgr at Honda and one of his techs workEd at nissan. From the video he said it looks like a definite fuel issue. Possibly a fuel regulator problem. Called nissan and they want me to bring the video in. Hopefully I get can get an answer. Will post feedback when I get back from vacation in a week

You are most graceful dear brother! A thousand thanks!