I didn't have trouble there, are they touching your under tray there? cuz it shouldn't be that sharp of a turn where it should bulge in that spot

I used a few zip ties in that spot to hold it close the the radiator support and the next spot they should touch is the aluminum beam that's tuning vertical under the car and they get screwed in there with the clamps

I eventually got it tucked up and fitted the z speed undershroud.

None....LOL Moutain Dew + Marlboro's = Yes

Yes, a little. The only place I had an issue was running past the factory PS fluid cooler brackets. I put some rubber lines around the braided lines to protect them.

Yes, I have the FI kit. Both of my lines go over the swaybar.

I'll have to fix that next oil change...
thanks

Thanks.,

I was thinking about this exact kit, but was also worried about it not getting hot enough. My drive to work is only 7 miles and I'm also in St. Pete. Whats the minimum temperature the oil should reach?

I'm also in St. Pete like Elmo. Firehawk do you drive around St. Pete area often? I'm sure I've seen that color nismo a couple times around here. I love that color...to anyone who is in the car with me i'm always like "look look! thats the color i want if i get another Z!" lol.

You prob won't get up to temp, unless you make a block off plate or until summer time temps come around with traffic. I only went with the 34 row because i plan on tracking the car soon.

I have the FI oil cooler and no sandwich plate. My commute is six miles and we get colder here than you are there. I always warm the car until I have better than one dot on the water temp gauge and I don't go past 3000 rpms until the oil temps hit about 160 or so. It will take a couple of miles but it will hit 180 before you arrive at your destination as long as you are driving in the city. My temp does drop in cold weather when cruising on the highway so you may need to block part of your oil cooler then, but if you have a sandwich plate you will be fine as it doesn't get that cold in Florida.

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From what I recall the factory gauge reads coming out of the oil cooler not coming out of the engine. The ECU picks up the oil temp out of the engine where one should read the oil temp. I believe the oil is getting 20-30 deg hotter then what is indicated.
The oil really only should get hot enough to vaporize the water in it (and fuel at a lower temp). Without looking it up this typically happens around 180F. So considering the above info, if true, 160 on the gauge is perfectly acceptable and probably ideal.

from what I've read, what he said^^

Just finished installing my FI Oil Cooler and noticed the whining noise other people have complained about when I drove the car. Sounds like a bad power steering pump. Volume is relative to RPM's. At idle it is very faint but during driving it gets louder. Does everyone with this kit get this noise and is there anything I can do to quiet it down?

I think I heard it one time but I honestly blast my system when I drive mostly because if I hear little noises I freak out.
like a sweet, rattle or clunk.
I'll listen tm morning tho an see

sorry I can't decipher the difference between any of that noise coming from the oil cooler and my loud exhaust..
I'd have to tie a midget to my front bumper so he can listen...

Thanks for checking. Whether the midget idea worked or nit it sure would be funny either way

How does that PS cooler work? Think it's worth it? Does your fluid still boil? OEM cooler, mine boils at idle.

Do you run those nets over your filters all the time?

The Z1 power steering cooler works good. The trick of not having the fluid coming out of the cap is not to fill the reservoir to the full line. Just fill it to the add line. What happens is the fluid gets hot and expanse. It needs a place to go. So it goes out the cap if filled too full.

Ive had em on about 5-7k miles now, I honestly wouldn't know if they are any good or bad but I know there waterproof and it keeps bugs from sticking in between the filter creases.
easy to clean off too

F.I. oil cooler
 

also I re-ran both oil lines over the sway bar todayhttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...8459622e6e.jpg
don't mind my kids hand

Is this whining noise a common problem with oil coolers? Is it limited to the FI oil cooler or is it noticeable with other makes (Stillen, Z1, Mishimoto)? I'm considering installing an oil cooler and I'd like to know what to expect so there's no surprises. Any feedback from those who have installed oil coolers would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Never hear mine

Some other coolers whine too. Z1 had the problem. They put a sheath over the oil lines. I have the 34 row Z1. I can't hear a whine with mine. Maybe because I lost some hearing, or my Z is too loud.

I have the same FI 34 row oil cooler kit and also notice the whining noise.

It might be because the oil lines touch the plastic under shroud (or something else) but I could be wrong.

I would remove the under shroud and see if the whining noise goes away.

If anyone knows how to fix this noise issue please do share.


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If you look at mine in the for sale section you will see the lines have I believe 1/2 inch heater hose cut in many sections and zip tied to the lines. I put this on the lines right after I noticed the noise and it did quiet it down but did not eliminate it. I believe it's a combination of the vibration in the lines and the oil passing through, all of which is normal.

Mine has a whine as well.. after the oil has warmed up and car is on basic idle the whine is there if the background is quiet .. ive always thought it was the g3 intakes as it created a slight whine 3k-5k rpm. But good to know it could be the cooler. Installed a z1 19 about 10weeks ago


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Two questions on this.
 

For those with a 2012 and above --- any DIY on the oem oil cooler bypass/delete when installing a real cooler?


On the pic below, shouldn't you give more slack for those lines?

that pic is deceiving it actually has about 2-3" of wiggle room up and down and i figured my engine shouldn't move more then that.

those lines are pretty firm, when i called FI they told me to make them nice and secure so they didn't rub around on anything.

i can't think of any need to leave more slack for something that shouldn't move that much as long at ur engine mounts are doing there job.

maybe someone else has better info

also in the oem oil cooler bypass/delete
i didn't remove the belt like the directions said.
i literally cut the oem line up with tin snips and sheers and pulled all the old metal lines out in pieces.

also btw there oil cooler delete is literally a 2-3' line that u can get from the auto parts store.

Not to derail here but what is the lowest temp that is acceptable for for operation with say a 34 row cooler?

there's probably gonna be a massive verity of what ppl say is a safe low operating temp.

but for me and what i read, i always took it easy and wouldn't rev much past 3k till my temp hit 160 on the gauge.

there's a lot of debate about what ur real oil temp is going to be too.
ppl say about 10-20 higher then what ur factory gauge reads due to it taking the temp after the oil exits the oil cooler.