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Upgraded Clutch Slave Cylinder Fails Again!
Update: 9/18/2015 CSC DID NOT FAIL. Was the clutch itself. (Made deletions of wrong statements I made originally)
See my reply post below in this thread: "Clutch Fails Again: NOT a CSC Failure" (Post #30). Clutch disc was not broken in enough which caused the clutch to fry. My fault - not the clutch or CSC. Back in July my clutch (CSC) orig. Nissan slave cylinder failed so I upgraded to the new and improved HD CSC (with new MC and stainless steel line upgrade) from Zspeed (ZSpeed Performance Replacment HD Clutch CSC Heavy Duty Slave Cylinder Kit) (along with a new Clutch & Flywheel) which has been touted here on this forum and on the Zspeed website to fix the infamous CSC failure problem in the 370Z. Any comments on this Zspeed CSC setup are welcome. Also: To be fair, the CSC has not been removed yet to confirm its bad, but I believe it is since the MC makes good pressure. I'll report back here to confirm my suspicions. (This has been proven wrong - nothing wrong with the new CSC unit) |
Did you wrap insulation around the hydraulic line down by the exhaust pipe?
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What kind of fluid did you use is the big question. Dot 3 brake fluid is not going to cut it. Bleed it again with Motul 600,
It appears you overheated the fluid and caused it to boil. |
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Wasn't there some issue with the HD CSC and some brand of aftermarket clutch? Anyway boiling would temporally make the clutch stick, after it cooled down it should work normal again. And if he hasn't replaced the stock cats then the heat shield on them should prevent any overheating of clutch fluid.
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Ya, I am scratchin' my head on this one. |
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I'm curious to see what the autopsy shows.
If the seals failed, you should be able to see fluid where it doesn't belong and reservoir level should drop. If it's not the seal and the MC is good (have you tested it at operating temp?) then you're probably boiling the fluid. Or maybe you just got a bad CSC - it happens even with the best manufacturers. Can't rule out a bad install, yet. |
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Everyone: thanks for all your thoughts on this! |
This happened to me yesterday at 46,000 miles. Thinking about the Z1 Clutch Concentric Slave Cylinder Elimination Kit from Z1motorsports. Any suggestion?
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If the z1 CSC fails it's a matter of getting underneath the car, replacing the pull-type cylinder instead of dropping the trans. The hardest part would be bleeding the fluid with another buddy. Stock cats get super hot because they're doing their job but that heat needs to go somewhere and incidentally your clutch lines are near there. Once that fluid boils and bubbles are formed, that's it the system isn't doing it's job |
I got one, and yessss get one, i also have the rjm pedal, also i recommend replacing ur master cylinder. Its a sweet setup adjustibility is awsome.
I waraped my exhaust so np. Also it comes with a heat shield. |
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Yes. A Spec. Something like 85-90% of ZSpeeds CSC failures have been when installed with a Spec clutch. Asninjnderstand it Joe no longer warranties the CSC is the clutch is a Spec. |
My question is if I don't run track is it necessary to spend $445 for Z1 CSC compare to OEM CSC $100 plus? Please give me a suggestion before hitting this submit order button. lol
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Never buy a replacement OEM CSC it'll just fail again. The only options are either the HD CSC from ZSpeed or the Elimination Lit from Z1. |
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I'm going to guess between 3-5 hrs of labor. Never installed Z1 elimination kit so I can't say for sure.
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For OEM CSC, it is good practice to flush that fluid every so often, definitely if you drive hard. There's no escaping the heat and when the stock fluid boils; thats it, the fluid will bypass the seals that are meant to keep it in. I have my stock csc, spirited driving... replaced with higher temp brake fluid every other oil change myself.
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So what was the actual diagnosis? It would be good to actually get a report on what happened, so that the thread is actually useful instead of the countless OMGWTF stuff that goes dead after some speculation and no diagnosis or fix action.........I'm just saying...
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Every 2 - 3 weeks myself |
Update: HD CSC DID NOT FAIL. See my new post #30 below.
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Did you check the master first? I've been through three of them in 70K miles now. One at 30K miles, another at 51K miles (at which point I got rid of the OEM CSC), and another at 68K miles.
FWIW, I have the Z1 CSC Elimination Kit. My cylinder failed about a year after the install. I paid Z1 $60 to send me a new one, spent 20 min uninstalling the old one and adjusting and installing the new one, and then sent the old one back for a refund. It was easier than replacing the damn master cylinder. |
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I'm interested in what went wrong. The CSC is the worst part of owning a Z. |
I just want you to know that I am not trying to be an jerk or anything. I genuinely just want to know how this pans out so that it can help me and others in the community to avoid (and prevent) this issue.
Good luck! |
Clutch Fails Again: NOT a CSC Failure
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Specifically (shop initial inspection): Clutch disc welded to pressure plate (fingers collapsed). The CSC was still operating, but the clutch - she no release. My clutch: South Bend DXD Clutch Stage 2 Daily Clutch Kit South Bend DXD Clutch Steel 19lb Flywheel Came with this Zspeed Kit: "South Bend Complete Clutch Package Stage 2 Daily 370 G37 G35 Q60" ZSpeed Performance Nissan Infinti OEM & Performance Parts Bottom line, this clutch did not hold up with my occasional, limited track use. I don't ride or slip the clutch excessively, so I was very surprised to find out this happened. Why do I always have to learn the hard way!?:shakes head: |
Thanks for updating! :tup:
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UGG, beat that was ugly. Been there, done that.
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Not sure how you could have welded the clutch, A clutch just doesn't weld to the flywheel for no reason.
A clutch welding to a flywheel, esp a organic clutch is nearly impossible, It had to have been uber hot to do this and is only caused be driver error or mis-adjusment of the master cylinder which could cause excessive slipping esp in a racing enviroment. Like I said in our phone conversation, Send me some pics of it and we can go from there. Much like your post blaming our slave for failing before you even knew what was going on it seems you are possibly jumping the gun here on the real issue, If the trans has not even been removed how do we know exactly what has happened? I will be more than happy to help in any way possible but I need info to help. |
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I did wrongly assume the CSC failed, and I did retract that error. I apologize to anyone I misled. |
Clutch Fail Pictures
4 Attachment(s)
9/22/15: Clutch removed today.
Pic1: Press Plate Pic2: Disk Flywheel side Pic3: Disk Press Plate side Pic4: Disk n Press Plate OK Joe, and any other clutch experts. Whatcha think? Note: Zspeed HD CSC appears to be good. |
What did Southbend say? They are a good company. Can't remember the guys name (Peter???), they are real popular in the Diesel world. Did you contact them?
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You can see that the disc overheated by the discoloration.
Either excessive abuse, bad pressure plate, in improper adjustment on the throw out bearing - in this case the CSC, or you like riding the clutch. |
One question. Were you relying on SRM completely during downshifting/braking zones? If so, you can't because you will do engine braking all the time which is not good for the clutch.
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No, I was asking if he was totally relying on the SRM to REV match for him in the braking zone. You must apply some throttle to limit the amount of engine braking. I noticed an issue at the Dragon when only relying on SRM to rev match.
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