Oil Cooler, How cold is too cold?
 

I'm looking to upgrade the stock oil cooler for the daily soon to be off-on track car. Would a 24 be sufficient or should I tone it down? Obviously the big issue here is running the risk of running too cool :cool:. Owning this car it seems like 220 is operating temp, what would you consider too cold to run? As well as what do you find sufficient? Thanks guys.:driving:

Go bigger with a thermostatic plate

180 to 200 would be perfect. 220 is getting warm in my book. On the track, 200 to 230 would be ideal for me.

^^^^THIS^^^^

And have the thermostat open at 180deg

Mishimoto?

Ive never tracked my car, but I have a 34 row with a thermostatic plate, and I like to have my oil temps at 170 degrees on the highway, and in the city, obviously the temp will rise with stop and go traffic, so if my temps are 200-220 at the highest, I'm ok with that.

FÙCK NO.

Nothing from MiSHITimoto.



Buy a kit from Z1 or Fast Intentions

Just as an FYI, with an oil cooler, your oil temps are about 20 degrees higher than on the gauge.

:roflpuke2::roflpuke2::roflpuke2:

Z1 Motorsports. If it's going to be seeing the track, get a 34 row.

ahhh, I didn't know that, thank you sir.

Friends don't let friends put Mishimoto in their cars!

:rofl2::rofl2:

God no.

I made my own with a 48 row.

You don't think a 34 is excessive for daily off-on track use? What are the risks I face for running too cold?

I feel like I owe you a drink now.

Even up here in Ohio in the winter I can get the oil up to operating temp. You just need to make up a block off plate for the cooler. I just used ~1/8" thick plexiglass to make the plate on mine. Also make sure you get the thermostatic sandwich plate.

You'll still over heat with a 34 on a hot day. Like high 200's.

Just use a block off plate. Duct tape and card board will even work. Long as you're above 160 you'll be fine. Cut the plate to achieve 180 though.

I do not have readily access to a garage and can't just disassemble my car at a whim unfortunately.

If I were to buy a row, at point which should I cut it in half? I'm assuming anything over 240 is high for you?

Spelling

The block off plate can be fabbed and installed without doing any disassemble. At autox events I take my plate off and then at the end of the event just put it back in place. I use velcro to hold the plexi in place.

Total noob question here, but what does the thermostatic sandwich plate do?

I made mine in 2 pieces. Just took the piece to cover the whole cooler and cut it in half.

If it's not too much to ask, can you post pics of this setup on and off? Just to satisfy my curiosity and the ones reading?

I'm a bourbon guy ;)

Same thing the thermostat on your coolant system does. It prevents fluid from going thru the heat exchanger (I.e. Oil cooler) until you reach a certain operating temperature.

Not entirely true. The basic concept is right but in order to avoid thermal shock to the cooler a small amount of oil is always flowing through the cooler and then when it gets hot it allows a lot more oil to go through the cooler.

Here's some pictures of my block off plate setup.

https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3724/1...abfc2ab7_z.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5483/1...8b7e7560_z.jpg

https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3795/1...08715242_z.jpg

That's a pretty slick set-up!

Wow thats a pretty clean setup and pretty ingenious. I suppose it would be one more chore keeping it bug free but no real complaints. Industry velcro holding it in place with tape?

Edit:words

Edit 2: I just realized you took a whole plate then cut half of the cooler. How is the rest of the plexi mounted?

This was just off the shelf velcro from the Lowes next door to me. Ideally I would have used the velcro like material they use with EZ-Passes as it seems stronger and more durable but this velcro has held up surprisingly well. Been on for two years without any signs of coming off.

This is a very practical and clean mod man I might try it out. Whats your normal street temp vs track if you know? Also, I have to ask, any rattles?

On the street 180-200F depending on outside temp but even in the late fall/early spring it can make it above 180 without any issue. I only do autox (at this point atleast) but after a ~60 sec run it will go from 200 to 220F. By the time I'm up for my second run it's back down to 190-200F.

Block off plates are both on for street driving and both off for autox.

gomer nice setup with the plexi, i would have never thought of that, I used black sheet metal, 2 pieces with velcro.

That is true there is a trickle that comes out but I simplified it considering he prefaced it as noobie question.

Cut it in half with a block off plate? That's up to your cars temp gauge.

Anything over 260 is bad. At that temp oil will start to break down really fast and no longer protect. This is where picking the right oil matters. The better the oil stock the longer it will protect and not break down at high heat.

FYI redline and motul use the best stock called polyolester.

FWIW, some experts consider 210-215F to be the optimum oil temperature (best viscosity, shear strength, &c) for a DD. Just what I've read so YMMV.

It depends on the oil. Amsoil usually gets to that point faster when the oil is cooler. Just a thought. I use whatever oil works best for me. I am not an Amsoil bandwagoner.

Yeah. Probably varies a bit between types/brands and what engine they are used in.

My guess is that the boiling point of water has more to do with the experts' figures than shear strength or other parameter (most graphs aren't very steep once the oil gets over 180F or so). I've seen 212F/100C used more than once. BPoW may just be a convenient reference point. Maybe it's to make sure any water gets boiled off. All I know is what I read on the Intertubes. :)

How is this possible if your not moving the oil temp sensor? Also, UpRev Cipher reports the same oil temp as my gauge.

The only thing Japanese about Mishimoto is the name. CSF or go home