I would think you would need to pull the undershroud to get the oil filter out. I personally never use the trap door. I like to take the entire shroud off so I can visually inspect everything from underneath. There are a lot of AN hose going back and forth to support my turbo setup so I like to make sure everything is good to go!

Yea, I also double check all AN hoses, just to be on the safe side


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Any racers here gonna use this? I wanna hook up an accusump to protect the motor. I found this Canton racing product that will bolt down in between the filter and block or block and thermal plate for a oil cooler or a block and factory cooler. Makes install of a sump seem 10 times easier and you don't have to cut and Tee into your cooler lines which I don't think you can do anyways because the sump needs a direct shot at the block vs having to go through the filter first. Also this product will also let you stay with the OEM location of the filter vs having to buy a morcol filter relocator plus more oil lines.

Anyone run this or see these? My only question is install. The morcol thermal plates and OEM cooler are not threaded through the middle. I'm not sure with this being threaded how a bolt going through will tighten when the blocks threaded too. Also with a thermal plate that's a lot of plates built up like some run a cooler with the OEM cooler. I know space gets killed down there for the filter.

Phunk any thoughts? Maybe the next group buy if you made a sandwich plate that's not threaded inside? Thinner design? Comes with a bolt or bolts to lock it all down?

Accusump Adapter Sandwich Plates - Accusump Adapter Sandwich Plates- 20mm x 1.5 thread and 2-1/2 or 3-1/8 O-ring

Grr!
Thanks for the info.

I might "modify" the under tray to allow mor access. It seems easy enough to widen up the access panel a bit and fab up a replacement cover.

Accusump is on the short list but I'm hoping this baffled pan will suffice for the kind of weekend tracking I do.

I hope it does too but how can anyone know till its to late? From what I read a blown motor only takes like a few milliseconds of running dry before a bearing or something gives. I figure for around $300-400 just do it now. Maybe on a less modified car it's not a big worry? Even if it is just a slow track day, a car with massive down force, tires, G force etc could still get enough lateral force to move the oil from the pick up??

I have lost an engine to oil starvation. My 427 Z06 had 13 quarts in a dry sump. The oil pumps 4 quarts per second. Therefore, I had about 3 seconds of left hand turns worth of oil at 1.2 g's. Several tracks I ran had longer left corners than that. When I talked to the ALMS Corvette team, they had a huge dry sump in the trunk of the car. I don't track the Vette anymore.

What rate does the Z (370Z) pump oil? My bet is that is about 2 quarts per second. The 2 quarts in the Accusump will last 1 second. That may be enough if you get a BIG warning light as you are flying through a right hand corner to get off the gas (and possible spin). However, this one way baffled pan is intended to stop that situation from ever occurring. I am considering the Accusump in addition to this pan. I have the 34 row Setrab and I would mount the Accusump in the oil cooler return line in the front of the car above the bumper where the oil lines are located.

Data would be greatly appreciated.

Mounting in the oil cooler return line...will the sump still have to push the oil through the filter or will that be relocated? I've never seen a reason why sumps don't do that.

My concern is my home track. Mid Ohio's key hole has a pretty good right hander that's off camber which scares me with my setup.

I can make sandwich plates but for anything thermostat it would be difficult as I dont really have any great ideas for where to source or how to build the little thermostat like Mocal uses in some of theirs.

I dont know the flow rate of the oil pump, but there is no doubt Accusump wont put out the same amount of oil as your oil pump, especially at higher RPM.

Although, I have used an accusump to charge/prime my built engines before ever firing them up and they pressurize the engine for several seconds. Its been years so I am totally pulling a number out of my *** but I want to say 10-15 seconds of pressure. So it might not match the pressure/flow of the mechanical pump, but any oil pressure at all is a whole lot better than none.

You wouldnt want to depend on accusump constantly handling the burden of lubricating your engine, but as a safety margin I would think it could be a very good idea especially if you could rig up some sort of way to know when it is discharging so that you know there is an issue that needs addressing.

Phunk - your point about the flow from the accusump is very important. I am sure you are correct that the flow rate is greatly reduced and would last far more than my off-the-cuff estimate. I would like to know how long it would protect the engine at high RPM.

The Keyhole does not need much power. Use a higher gear and use less oil. It has been many years since I ran Mid-Ohio and I will do it again.

I gotcha.

How's the annodizing looking? I'm about 1k out from an oil change so I might get lucky and be able to install whenever it arrives.

Generally the anodizer has a batch for a couple weeks. I am hoping to get them back before the end of the month.

All the black pans are now finish prepped for anodizing and will be dropped off in the next couple days!

We are nearing the end of all this! If the anodizer stays on top, we *might* have every last pan shipped before the end of the month.