:yum:

Guess it's time for me to pay so shipping can happen:excited:

Since yours has to be anodized, there is no rush on your part yet.

No worries. Looking back at the details list for my fittings, and this might be a obvious, the -6AN should be a male fitting for a swivel AN hose fitting and the 1/8NPT should be a female fitting to accept my temperature probe.

paid for black anodized

Just sent a PM, I'd love to get on the list for a black anodized pan!

you can buy mine if you want. Just pay phunk whatever extra it is for anodizing, and reimburse me the original amount.
I want to go V8 when my engine blows, and this isn't going to help that!

Actually, I just got the last one from phunk...

Mike if you make a plan for when your engine blows, your engine will never blow!!

Yes the last unit has been sold... so anyone else who wants one, I would recommend waiting a few weeks to place the order. There will be 12 more going into production in a few weeks... material is here.

edit: one more might become available, I will post up if it does

Yeah just ask djtodd. Spare motor waiting to go in after pops the stock one. 660whp all track miles still going strong.

How much power does he run the car at on the track? 660whp can barely hook up with 28" drag tires and zero camber.. id be surprised if anyone tracked a 370z over 525rwhp or so. Grip would be impossible

He might have a low boost setting. I know the final E85 tune from FI was like 659whp and some 550ish wtq.

Maybe he'll stumble across and respond.

Ya that would be like one of the most extreme cars on the road course to run it that way... would probably need full aero widebody slicks and a very custom fuel surge solution to move a rwd car around a road course at that power!

Got my CJ oil pan today. Thanks phunk for the piece of art work! Now I have to take a crack at getting off the stock oil pan. Last time I tried I couldn't get anything in there to pry it off.
Any recommendations on what kind of gasket to use when putting it back on?

A thin bladed screwdriver and a hammer. Once one section starts to lift. Go to another spot and try there. You don't want to put all the pressure in one spot. Also leave about 4 bolts in, loose. This way way when the pan pops loose. It won't make a mess. If you mark up the mating surface. Use a small very fine file to knock down the burr. For sealing. Use an rtv that is O2 sensor safe. I used the black rtv.