Rev light stall on AT
 

I notice (all in D mode) that if I WOT from < 5 MPH the car picks up quite nicely all the way through, but there are some rare occasions when I WOT from > 20 MPH (or some cruise speed) and the rev light will suddenly come on, it will stall a bit somewhere pass 6K RPM, and then after a second seems to go into next gear; I assume since the rev meter suddenly drops and picks up again.

:confused:

Any ideas on this?

That should only happen if you have your auto in manual mode, and are shifting it too late. If this is occurring while solely in D mode, I would consult the dealer.

Then again I should say sometimes when you are trying to just go flat out iirc the rev limiter light does blink but the shifts are pretty seamless. I know that I have been in manual mode and missed a shift, or wanted more from the engine, and it was just like nu-uh buh bye, and it does cut power drastically when the rev light comes on, but that is only ever in manual mode. If you are experiencing anything significant between shifts when fully automatic you should get it checked out.. Is the car new/used...maybe it has been tuned and can be corrected.

on a side note, I was on the belt yesterday and I was so happy I never have to take my Z on there, especially since im lowered. godspeed all lowered cars on the belt pkwy...good luck out there

The car was bought new, I'm going to bring it to the dealer and have it checked out I think there is an issue, as this was happening in automatic mode. :shakes head:

Let off the throttle while past 6k for a second and it'll shift.

So it's normal that if I'm in automatic mode and the car is WOT for it to stall like that?

I have had this same issue while in "D" it seems the ECU is trying to process the quick acceleration and almost seems buggy at times..

It happens sometimes when I am driving use the paddle shifters and suddenly pop it in "D" the ECU acts goofy afterwards with how it shifts and at what RPM, because it's learned your driving with the shifters (There was also a thread explaining an issue similar to this however I wasnt able to locate it).


I'm positive someone can explain it significantly better than I, but thats the jist of my perspective. I pretty must just drive with the shifters unless in traffic.

wtf is "D" mode?

:wtf2:

lol it's automatic mode.

That would sux if that's just how it is, anyway I made an appointment for Thursday morning, I'll keep this thread updated on the results, the transmission specialist will take a look at it.

Never hurts to double check

GL

obviously lol

I never use it. only manual mode.

also the ECU learns the way you drive so if you use manual a lot and then switch to D it'll try and replicate how you shift typically.

only thing I have ever encountered is a throttle blip sometimes when shifting from 4th to 5th. it'll rev up like 200-300 rpm's sometimes.

solution: drive it in manual mode all the time. trust me I never see any issues aside from the throttle blip if you can call that an issue really lol

Thanks Array appreciate that, really hope it's not that the ECU is "slow" at times :eekdance:

also you can get the tranny tuned with uprev to shift harder and faster :tiphat:

LOL I don't want to give these guys a reason at all to void my warranty. I'd really like the automatic to work well as I'm under the impression it should out-shift any human when accelerating on a straightaway.

well just fyi I had my full exhaust with no cats, intakes, and a tune and Nissan did warranty work on my car when the steering wheel buttons went. they replaced the clock spring or whatever it is under warranty as well as replaced the steering lock for the recall.

:tiphat:

Pretty cool, I've read mixed review on warranty issues, here in NY they tend to be pretty strict so if I do any mods I'll wait until the warranty expires. For now my tints were enough :rofl2:

So many "what ifs" but realistically unless the aftermarket part caused the failure of the stock part I dont believe they can void your warranty :tup:

And as long as you're happy with your machine then so be it :driving:

Besides the confusion, I'm happy so :iagree:

Im also in NY and I would not worry too much about a tune, its actually a great idea if you do not get answers you like from the dealer. Im all tuned up and it makes the car so much more fun. You can always set the computer back to stock, or make a stock map. They do not do much on a return if you leased the car. Hey, then again if you are too concerned about the warranty, then just deal with it!:) If you are looking for a tune look up our sponsor Real Auto Dynamics they are semi local and have all the Z info and services you can imagine. They would probably better diagnose the transmission issue as well.

That's another thing.... if you have a code reader pull the codes there are lots of very knowledgeable people who could help if there was a code thrown

Can you expand on that, I don't know what a code reader is or what codes you are talking about.

You can go on Amazon and buy a OBD scanner like this one
http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan...s=odb2+scanner
It will plug in under the steering wheel and spit random codes out on a screen indicating there is a problem in the car or not. A good cheap tool to have anyway. You will have to look the codes up (if any appear) once you get them from the scanner.
Useful, but more so for other cars and not my Z.

Thanks for explaining that, yeah I think I'll just let a specialist figure it out then try to recreate the problem.

Just an update this morning I took the car to a Nissan dealership so the specialist can look at it, I noticed this time specifically that around 60 mph when I went WOT the rev light went on and it stalled around 6K rpm. I'll update when I get word from the specialist, might take a little while they told me. Weird thing is I was told it would try to be recreated outside but I told them it's illegal so they said yeah maybe they will try to recreate the issue on a lift. However that was just a desk rep telling me that, who know what the specialist will actually do.

This is the part where they joy ride your car for a few miles. Good luck at the dealership, when they are done jerking you around, call real auto dynamics:P

they will joy ride it for a few miles or so. did you check your mileage and take note?

also this would definitely be a great time to see the codes to know if the dealership is a stealership or infact the rare breed of honest service.

Well I would go to RAD but I'm using my warranty since it's free, and yes I took note of the mileage :rofl2:

I usually try to make it really obvious to the dealer that I'm anal about the car. I take the photo of the mileage right in front of the service advisor and make sure they know there is no unauthorized mileage to be put on the vehicle. I tell them to call me if there is any need to drive the car - I know people that have even gone so far as to record this conversation using video record on their phone (TX is one party consent state - check your local laws).

Sadly free hardly ever means good or quality. Most techs at the dealers hardly ever see a Z or GTR. You get what you pay for!

True, but if I need repairs or a huge replacement RAD wouldn't pay for that, NISSAN however is liable to replace any parts. Even if I brought it to RAD first, the most they can do is diagnose it, if I needed a new transmission why would I go out pocket for that, it's NISSAN responsibility.

Probably easier to find ice in the desert, than to find a dealer who wants to pay for a transmission replacement:P

Either way you been there all day, whats the story!

I know people are often against this, but if you do your homework you can find decent non-Nissan warranties. I got one through my credit union very competitively priced up to 100K miles bumper to bumper with zero deductible. I will be getting a new transmission here soon (5th and 6th gear synchros are going out) at no cost to me and having Kevin at Austin Z Clinic do the work. Bonus: his shop is literally in my neighborhood.

Even stuff normally covered at all under warranties are covered with a $500 deductible. In hindsight, I probably should have used this to have Kevin do my CSC/CMC last year. But I saved $100 by purchasing Z1's kit and installing it myself (with help).

What is this said warranty and what is the deductible on it?

It's through Mercury Insurance, but the credit unions broker a deal where they offer it paired with their financing services for much cheaper than you typically get as a direct consumer rate. I think we paid ~$1000 for it. 10yr/100K mile. Zero deductible bumper to bumper. The only things that have deductibles are things that normally aren't even covered by insurance. I have every possible coverage you can imagine, including tires, bulbs, glass cracks, etc. They told me $500 for CSC claim (decent considering dealers charge upwards of $1500). I think a $50 deductible will cover up to two new tires if they get unrepairable damage (like nail in the sidewall). When I read the policy, I was quite surprised at both the coverage and the pricing.

I'm glad that I have the policy even though I've never used it. The transmission alone will make it worth the cost.

OK apparently it's normal, the issue was that if I'm cruising certain speeds the ECU feels a sudden change of acceleration and downshifts (as for quicker passing), they told me in automatic mode if in mid gears I decide to hit the throttle all the way I should pay attention to the rev meter and if it goes all the way up to ease up on the pedal then depress all the way once it up shifts again.

Yup time to get an Uprev tune, hahaha best 600 or so bucks you will ever spend, and the tranny will feel like its made to race.

Told you.