If I decide to ever track I would set the rev limiter to 8 grand. Plus it would be badass to own one of the only few 400whp Na Z's. It crazy how far companies have come, my thread last year talking about making that power was out the question

That's what she said

Seriously? A few GTM teaser pics and "we've come so far"? There's still the same number of NA 400whp Zs out there since you first started talking about doing this. 1- Shamu's old car. IIRC, that's a built 4.0 with a bunch of other goodies that probably cost as much for the motor as it did for the Z to put it in. 1Slow spent a mint to hit ~375whp.

A 400whp NA Z is for bragging rights only. It will get smoked by a FI Z at the same hp level in a straight line and coming out of a corner. If you're down with spending 2x the money for the same hp and much less torque, go for it. It's a cool project from an engineering standpoint, but the end result may be pretty underwhelming out in the real world.

I don't know of any 400whp 370z on a stock block. As far as FI being superior on the track is all about the set up and driver. 400 whp would be bragging rights but, just imagine if someone could reach it and then build off that. Big learning curve people and companies could build off of. No other company besides gtm a and cj motorsports are even interested in the NA market. But I don't blame them when you can spend the same amount of money for a TT kit and make close to 700 whp. I just prefer a screaming NA MOTOR over forced induction.

Shamu hit that mark on a built 4.0 on E85, but it was a full race motor. Not something you could run on the street. 1Slow was fairly convinced he's need to open up the block to push his setup any farther than he already had.

Driver may have a lot to do with it, but all things being equal, the car with 50-100 extra foot pounds of torque is the faster car.

Last I checked, CJM was working on a manifold that would really only be a benefit for the boosted guys. From his own thread, he didn't expect a huge jump in power on a NA motor. And GTM will never be a viable source for anything as long as Sam is running the show.

There's just not enough people who mod 370s to justify something like this from a R&D standpoint. There's not enough of a market for it to be a good use of resources as a vendor. Unless you jump in there yourself and figure it out as you go, you'll end up waiting a long time for someone to blaze a trail for you.

Can't aruge with you. You do have a valid point. I just hope it makes decent gains because i plan on following 1slowz route. Just will take me a little longer to do it. Once i do purchases the cam i'll ask to fly him out to install the cam.

I just spoke with Sam at GTM (easy now... Easy). He says they are moving and therefore won't have anything ready for about 2 weeks but he'll get back to me then. I'm VERY interested in this solution so I'll keep posting about my journey to delivery with GTM. Wish me luck.

Interesting

For phunk's manifold I'm just hoping it will make better gains than the existing manifold's that are out now, especially in top end power. I wonder in conjunction with jun cam and larger TB's and a higher redline how much more power could his manifold produce. I think the manifold will be limited to the cars being tested.

Just to clarify. They have already moved into the new shop. However like any time you move all your chit is packed up in boxes and takes time to sort out and arrange in your place.

There was talk from his investors about moving them into a more of a manufacturing location but until I get confirmation it's only speculation. Right now they are in a much smaller shop with enough room for a few lifts, their inventory, a dyno and a few offices. There isn't room for much else.

Mike

^ I always wanted to visit GTM's shop .. Despite the issues people been thro with them, i still look at them as VQ's devils lol. Fella gotta appreciate their work for all these years at least ! ... Thank you GTM :)

Hey cool its the pan i designed. I hope it comes to completion. The advantage of wet over dry is its waaaaay cheaper my drysump was almost $8k and the daileys one is 6k for just the pump/pan plus 3k in the rest of the system. Also the pump on a wet sump is alot smaller so you can keep your ac. The downside of the wet sump is no engine vaccumm and you are more likely to starve the motor than a drysump system. This kit would be perfect for guys on a limited budget that have things like a better manifold ;) and want to take advantage of the power betond 8krpm as going to an external pump means that instead of spinning the oil pump at crank rpm you can pulley it down to 30-70% less.

The NA wizard speaks. 9k for Dailey's system, FUQ!!!!. That's a fast intentions kit or bp with a free extra dollars to spend. So your saying this kit will be around civic turbo kits prices 3-4 grand?, to rev to 9k?

Off topic but it was nice meeting you Saturday night Bullitt. Your car is awesome man

Who knows how much they will end up charging for it. Realistically to go past 9000k rpm and not 8000 you are going to need a lot of work. The oil pump is a part of it but i can see the springs running out past 8500. You also need a minimum of an ati damper properly tuned, new rods(at least rod bolts) a full dynamic rotating assembly balancing, some form of external oil pump, jun stage2 exhaust cams, and manifolds that can actually support. That kindof flow. The guy who bought my old car would only have to put a few thousand more in to get to 9000rpm and 400+ wheel hp. He is dropping it off these week for an oil change and a few more things. Pretty sure he is slowly turning it into a track toy. I am hoping that someday somebody will give me the chance to doa couple of the builds i have planned out. A 7-800whp Supercharger kit, a standalone ecu race car vhr na build, not to mention completing my current project '74-'04 400zx. I have gone away but im not out of the game lol.

As far a dry sumps go, what about removing the battery to the back, and fitting a custom tank where the battery goes? Someone on here roughly said you could get a 8 quart tank in that space, maybe a 10. So 8,500 rpm is that cap for a stock block VHR block before things start breaking? **** I give you shot of helping me build a badass NA Z. Whenever I get to the point of installing a jun cam I was going to contact you to see if there is anyway I could get you out to Florida to install the cam.

Another question. I'm waiting for cj motorsports manifold to come and was considering getting a jun cam and getting it installed while the manifold is off. I know that you said the cam doesn't really start producing power until 8,000 rpms, but for the sake of not having to take all the parts off again when I'm ready to install the cam.

Another question could you in box me your tilton master cylinder set up?

the height of the tank is important. the flower pot tanks only work on drag cars, the taller the tank the harder it is for oil to slosh away from the hose in the bottom of the tank. also you need a tank TWICE the size of the volume of oil you are going to run. so an 8 quart tank is only good for a 4 quart system. On a dry sump you check the oil level with the car running and hot to make sure the oil is at its max level in the tank and it should be halfway up a tall tank. if the oil level gets higher then that you will not have enough room to separate the air from the oil as it makes its way down and you will have problems with oil coming out the breather line on the tank. unlike the corvette our cars do not have a 20+ inch deep hole under the battery, its just a wheel.

As for the jun cams do it just don't get the stage ones they are better for FI cars.

also if you are in there and you want to rpm remember you need to pull the front apart to remove the OE oil pump for running an external pump. of course the car won't be able to run until ou get the pump and pan so it looks like you will be cracking her open twice anyway. Also BMW m5 v8 arp conrod bolts can be used instead of oems and with a dynamic balancing and an ati damper (you need for the oil pump drive) you will be ready to go.

It was a GTM/ME part soooo you gotta hunt one down from them. Also the setup i had was racing shiz big bore lightswitch master cylinder, OS twin plate, billet pedal stop, and a tilton CSC setup as well.

Well that answers that. I was gonna go with exedy stage 2. Or speciality z set up with a tilton racing csc

the tilton csc, or the z1 whatchacallit is the way to go stop ******* around with oem parts be they nissan or saab(the stupid HD CSC cant remember who sold it).

As far as the wet solution goes. I remember reading for the ati damper only fits on cars running a dry sump out dip stick or something gets in the way. How would one go about fitting a damper for high RPM's?

Let everyone know when you find a solution ....

You will be waiting quite sometime

I know of a part that exists to do that, guess who makes it though.

Not too many people want to go down that rabbit hole right now to get it. Maybe in time .

Damnit!. Someone that lives near gym and can fetch the part I would pay through pay pal.

Can you inform me on the part, maybe I could have someone fabricate something.