thats odd about the pickup tube... i dont see any reason to change that. I know guys have to change it to use with the ATI damper with the dry sumps I think, but just for that lower pan its not really in the way at all.

The way it's angled to go through the top of the baffle.

might have been an afterthought? we can easily just leave a pass through for it.

Here is a link to a thread that has pictures of pan depth measurements:

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ml#post2417562

Here is the original AM Performance thread.

http://www.the370z.com/track-autocro...-oil-pans.html

I can see how their baffles are constructed. I have glanced around trying to find the doors/flaps in my supply catalogs but havent found anything yet. Might have to make the flaps. It looks like they might have. They appear to be aluminum. Wouldnt be too big of a deal to make them but to find them for $5 each in a catalog sure would be nice.

The trap doors are machined aluminum. ;)

That is an impressive pan you have there Rusty :tup: I'm starting to show signs of pan envy :icon17:, until I look at my needs & the price difference.

I Googled "aluminum aircraft hinge" and came up with this link:

Extruded Piano Hinge On Wicks Aircraft Supply

Excellent find! Just a quick glance on my iPad it looks like it might be perfect. Extruded aluminum hinge. Genius!

Sometimes little pieces like that can be tedious to machine and set-back product completion. I will take a detailed look again tomorrow and maybe order a foot to get into CAD and try and work with.

Thanks!

Just a little heads up on the aircraft hinge. Those are usually a tight fitting hinge so they wont easily flap around to well just from gravity alone. You could remove the hinge pin and turn the pin down if you need more clearance. Chuck the pin in a drill and take some material off with sand paper and scotch pads.

Thanks for the heads up. I can toss their pin and get any diameter rod locally if their pin is tight.

I have put in an email to the supplier of that extruded hinge to see if they can sell it to me in its raw extruded form without the notches cut in it. I will call them Monday if I dont hear back.

They said that the hinge is machined before they receive it. I dont know if I will find the original source of it.

I ordered some material to machine a prototype. Since it was $90 a block, I only ordered 2 for now.

Too bad you can't get more for recycling all those chips you are going to make.

I get about $50 per giant garbage can full of it. The chips arent worth much because they are contaminated with machining coolant

Finally had a chance to machine most of a pan this weekend. I have to pick up a couple cutters Tuesday to make some finishes passes then I can remove it from the CNC and show it off. I also have to get a piece laser cut for it this week.

I will probably start a thread about it around next weekend and see how many people would want one. :happydance:

nice! I'm interested!

See phunk, I told you.

nice! I'm interested!

PM'd.

I'm in depending on price.

It's going to be cheaper then the AM Perf. pan. If you can find one.

:yum:

is the design of this pan going to support 9k?

I'll guarantee the pan to hold up to 9000rpm no problem... But I can't promise it will hold up to the other bits of engine that will be thrown through it when you get there :D

Your pan looks great!

Your oil pan project had caused me to pay attention to the motions of my car and try to visualize what happens to the oil in the pan when on real world driving surfaces. One condition has kept me afraid of holding rpm in the 4500 – 7500 rpm range while cornering aggressively. That is an undulating surface. In the extreme violent pitching of the car would require a dry sump system. From the pictures of your pan I see how the extra depth and flaps control lateral oil movement and keep the pick up submerged. That works on smooth surfaces. My concern is how much vertical - g will this design tolerate and still prevent oil starvation. Could some sort of a grate be positioned over the top of the pan to keep oil from splashing up away from the pickup when the car is pitching in a turn?

The extra capacity through depth with extended pickup will reduce oil starvation in any direction. We can extend the top plate out to the sides more but we have to make sure that what we are doing is not going to promote oil starvation more than reduce it. I am open to any suggestions for additional baffling but I also lean towards a somewhat conservative baffling approach. The more baffling we add, the more thought has to go into the system to ensure that we arent going to make things worse.

If you wanted to draw something along the lines of what you are suggesting we can look at it an evaluate it. I will make it however you guys want it, I just have to make them all almost the same for manufacturing to be cost effective.

I didn't realize your pan had a top plate (baffle). That is why I suggested a grate to control oil splashing upward. Can you post a picture of the top plate?

:D view the next thread down my friend:

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...prototype.html

Here is a drawing (crude) of my idea to include a grate like structure on your baffle. The idea is to make it easier for oil to flow down into the pickup area than it is for oil to splash up away from the pickup. The grate ribs would have a triangular cross section to accomplish this one way tendency. The openings in the grate should have corner radii to make the baffle structurally sound.

Grating could be added like that, but the draft on the walls of the openings might not be an option... I dont think the laser cutters can cut at angles like that but maybe they easily can. I can ask my friend who runs that. If you want a custom top baffle plate like that, its really nothing for me - it would take me 10 minutes to draw that in CAD and I could order it with the rest of the other ones. If you convinced everyone into your design, I could just make them all like that.

Or just ream the hinge out

The pin is pivoting in the pan since it is the least resistance. Even reamed out which is a good idea, there will be greater contact area between the pin and flapper than there will be in the .25" of contact on either end. The flappers are very easy to move in the prototype. Just lightly blowing on them pushes them open.