That's how I feel but more along the lines if someone has to much and their track times or drags times suck, I rather have to little and be shocked than to much and be upset. A 300hp 12 second car sounds nice. A 350hp 13 second car sucks. Then people scratch their heads, bitch and moan, ask why my cars slow etc. no point in showing a customer a lie only to have them come back upset. Just my $0.02.

when u went to feverracing (formally zfever) for my tune I was talking to him an he told me out of all the 370's he has tuned almost all of them are right around what mine was about 310, and one at 315.

he also said he has never seen a dynojet that show as low of numbers as his dose.

but my question is even if I'm on the same dynojet and its sae cf an I dyno in jan, its 70 out an 40% humidity won't it still read a lot higher then if I go back in September and dyno again sae cf but it's 90 deg with 80% humidity?

cuz being in FL its hotter and more humid then most other z owners dyno day.

I looked at both sae and std on my final tuned run and I think it was 5-8hp difference

The correction factor will correct it to be almost the same (not sure but maybe hotter the temp the more the DJ correction factor corrects. The engineer probably thought and knows every xx colder temps adds xx hp so correct more %) but like adding a car part that lets you pick up a few HP, the temp and humidity will let you pic up some power also or take it away. Most never see this though cause dyno's are inside. My last with it cold outside was 72 degrees inside on the graph. Add a my hot engine bay and intake starting to heat up and I bet my MAF's were 80-90 degrees easy. The airs not so cool and dense now. In summer the dyno will be around 80-90 degrees inside but the intake and stuff will still be around the same or close. It just all depends during WOT what is the actually temp of the air in the cylinder right before combustion because that's where it counts most. I just don't think its enough of a swing to really show up unless your dyno's outside in a northern state with a huge fan blowing on it.

Also keep in mind winter has shitty fuel. During a dyno you might pick up power but crap 93 with additives will just make you lower timing. To really test this you need need some VP racing fuel where it will always be the same.

cool thank u for that explanation Scott, I had no idea or would even think about fuel being different... I do stick with shell 93 tho lol.

also I plan to pm u about your ported an CNC parts at some point today

An interesting story about correction factors...

When I sold my dyno to my friends Viper tuning shop, we setup the dyno lab over there and I was the operator for a while. We had a long desk off to the left side of the dyno with all the equipment and computer.

On this one particular car not long after setting up we noticed the numbers keep getting higher every pass... To the point of ridiculously high. Eventually we notice that its just the corrected numbers going way up, uncorrected numbers are being consistent.

That was the clue we needed... then we figured it out. This was the first side exit exhaust Viper we had run since the new setup. It was blowing all its exhaust straight at the dyno electronics box, and the correction factor was compensating for insanely high temperature as the exhaust heated up the shelving compartment. LOL I wish I could remember what it was saying the room temperature was but it was HOT.