Dynojet owners words!
 

Sorry I have to. This is from the owner of Dynojet. Some have seen me put people down (and I'm sorry) but I'm only doing it to be accurate and I hate people cheating or trying to up a part. Let's all just do the same thing please and listen to the owner. :tup:

This is also important for comparing results at the same dyno shop, for example, here in Las Vegas our atmospheric pressure stays relatively consistent, but our temps vary from 38 degrees to 118 degrees. So the same car with no changes will certainly make less power on the hot day compared to the cool day, but applying the SAE CF allows us to make an “apples to apples” comparison. If you take anything away from the last few sentences, it would be to ask your dyno operator to make sure that he is showing you SAE corrected HP figures, and before I get off my soap box, I will say that there are certain Dynojet dyno owners who apply the “STD” correction factor, and that’s not proper to do. The STD CF is an older standard that yields slightly higher HP numbers, so don’t allow yourself to fall into the trap (just use the SAE CF!!).

Or just compare apples to apples. The difference STD and SAE generally is not much. The Z world used to be all SAE going way back, I believe it was GTM that started the trend of posting STD graphs all over so everyone else just posted STD as well to keep it apples to apples.

BTW when you are at the dyno shop, there is a drop down menu right there in the runviewer that allows you to view it in either correction factor.

You can just print it out or photo it in both STD and SAE, and then you have all your bases covered for comparison to whichever other Dynojet graph you wish to compare.

This also coming from a Dynojet owner, LOL. I bought one brand new several years ago but sold it to a local shop.

Can make enough though being NA. If boosted I wouldn't care as 1 psi would be the difference or 1 degree of timing. So many people though get confused though. Plus I like the sleeper numbers.

O I know, but no one ever shows the smaller one ;)

I agree completely with what you are posting.

If you looked back to posts I used to make in the Z33 world, you could see I was all about the SAE numbers myself. I would RATHER see SAE dynojet graphs everywhere I look. Unfortunately I knew that it would be a lot easier to just get on the STD bandwagon here and start using those, rather than having to either convince other shops to do the same or have to annotate all my graphs with a note like "and it would be even higher in STD!!!" LOL.

Guys. We are starting to look at dyno's ourselves and I figured this would be a great place to ask.

How do you/did you like your Dynojets? The name is much more known up here, however many peers I talk to also seem to love the mustang dyno's (which are much much cheaper btw).

Ive talked to both owners and seen them both at SEMA last fall. Just looking for some real world experiences with them.

Here's the rest if it helps.

http://imageftp.dynojet.com/CMD/Trut...Runs_Final.pdf

Read through it and the only thing that concerns me is I want a 424LC. I want the ability to do more than just WOT runs on the drum. While reading that I did realize that with the dynojet I effectively get 2 dynos in 1 however. I would imagine you can turn off the brake altogether and just run the weighted drums only.

Essentially I know the marketing on both of them, been researching now for about 6 months. Just looking for shop reviews, any issues? how has support been? that sorta thing.

I am leaning to dynojet mostly because of their name up here. Guys want dynojet to run their cars and trucks on.

I am glad you posted this because its supporting of what I have been claiming for years. That Dynojets are the only dynos where the operator cannot manipulate the numbers. I had one for several years and the 4 preset atmospheric correction factor options are the ONLY thing you switch around, and it says it right on the graph which it is set to, so that everyone can know.

All the other dynos, you never know what you are getting, so comparing them is impossible. Some dyno operators program in a "dynojet correction" to try and simulate a dynojet, usually making ridiculously high numbers, etc.

I hate to have say this, but this is the honest truth. Whenever someone posts a dynograph to a forum, if its not a Dynojet graph, I literally scroll right past it. I dont even look at the curve or numbers. As interesting and useful as it may have been to the operator/tuner on the dyno that made that graph... it is pretty much meaningless to the outside world for comparison because nobody knows how the dyno was even configured.

When it comes to buying a dyno. if you are only using it as a tuning tool.. a means of loading the engine while stationary for safe tuning.. then you have a few options. If you want a graph to compare with the rest of the US, then you want a Dynojet.

If you want a lot of outside business coming in to use your Dyno... dynojet. When I had my Dynojet it was basically up to me how much to use it... there was always people who wanted to use it. You could literally setup a one bay shop with a Dynojet in the ground and a little office and have that be your full time business once the word gets around.

My Dynojet never needed any service ever. You just adjust the brake shoes once a year if the rollers slow down too slowly when you hit the stop button.

I think you maybe add a squirt or 2 of grease to the zerk fitting every few years, I dont know. I didnt have mine long enough to get to that point.

oh look.....another thread of scotty bitchin about people not using the numbers he likes. what a surprise.

:facepalm:

O look, 25,138 posts with no life. Come on, get out there cupcake, you'll find him one day. :tiphat:

glad u posted this, lately I've been feeling like there are all these n/a z's that have so much more then mine to the wheels either in there signature or in a thread an I'm like wtf I have the same parts...lol

That's how I feel but more along the lines if someone has to much and their track times or drags times suck, I rather have to little and be shocked than to much and be upset. A 300hp 12 second car sounds nice. A 350hp 13 second car sucks. Then people scratch their heads, bitch and moan, ask why my cars slow etc. no point in showing a customer a lie only to have them come back upset. Just my $0.02.

when u went to feverracing (formally zfever) for my tune I was talking to him an he told me out of all the 370's he has tuned almost all of them are right around what mine was about 310, and one at 315.

he also said he has never seen a dynojet that show as low of numbers as his dose.

but my question is even if I'm on the same dynojet and its sae cf an I dyno in jan, its 70 out an 40% humidity won't it still read a lot higher then if I go back in September and dyno again sae cf but it's 90 deg with 80% humidity?

cuz being in FL its hotter and more humid then most other z owners dyno day.

I looked at both sae and std on my final tuned run and I think it was 5-8hp difference

The correction factor will correct it to be almost the same (not sure but maybe hotter the temp the more the DJ correction factor corrects. The engineer probably thought and knows every xx colder temps adds xx hp so correct more %) but like adding a car part that lets you pick up a few HP, the temp and humidity will let you pic up some power also or take it away. Most never see this though cause dyno's are inside. My last with it cold outside was 72 degrees inside on the graph. Add a my hot engine bay and intake starting to heat up and I bet my MAF's were 80-90 degrees easy. The airs not so cool and dense now. In summer the dyno will be around 80-90 degrees inside but the intake and stuff will still be around the same or close. It just all depends during WOT what is the actually temp of the air in the cylinder right before combustion because that's where it counts most. I just don't think its enough of a swing to really show up unless your dyno's outside in a northern state with a huge fan blowing on it.

Also keep in mind winter has shitty fuel. During a dyno you might pick up power but crap 93 with additives will just make you lower timing. To really test this you need need some VP racing fuel where it will always be the same.

cool thank u for that explanation Scott, I had no idea or would even think about fuel being different... I do stick with shell 93 tho lol.

also I plan to pm u about your ported an CNC parts at some point today

An interesting story about correction factors...

When I sold my dyno to my friends Viper tuning shop, we setup the dyno lab over there and I was the operator for a while. We had a long desk off to the left side of the dyno with all the equipment and computer.

On this one particular car not long after setting up we noticed the numbers keep getting higher every pass... To the point of ridiculously high. Eventually we notice that its just the corrected numbers going way up, uncorrected numbers are being consistent.

That was the clue we needed... then we figured it out. This was the first side exit exhaust Viper we had run since the new setup. It was blowing all its exhaust straight at the dyno electronics box, and the correction factor was compensating for insanely high temperature as the exhaust heated up the shelving compartment. LOL I wish I could remember what it was saying the room temperature was but it was HOT.