Introducing the Z1 Motorsports 370Z Oil Cooler Kit *Customizable*
 

Ready for shipping, we have taken the 370Z oil cooler system to the next level by making you, the consumer, the one who decides what you want for your oil cooler kit!

Unlike other, similar oil cooler kits where you are only offered 1 line type with 1 particular oil cooler. The Z1 Motorsports 370Z Oil Cooler kit allows you to choose from a variety of options to custom tailor the oil cooler to your specifications depending on your intended driving scenarios, geographic location and other modification installed.

The heart of any oil cooler system is the oil cooler's core. In the Z1 Motorsports package, we went straight to the experts and chose to use a Setrab oil cooler core in your choice of 3 different sizes: 19 row; 25 row; or 34 row. The Setrab 6 series core is well known in many racing applications and features the following benefits:

• Rugged Construction, designed for racing and able to withstand vibration
• Light weight design
• Low pressure drop across the cooler core

http://www.z1motorsports.com/imageGa...4row.sized.jpg

The Core dimensions and recommended applications are as follows below:

19 Row (13" x 1 1/4" x 5 1/3") -- Recommended for most light street applications or applications in colder climates where less cooling is required. Will work with all aftermarket intakes.

25 Row (13" x 1 1/4" x 7 1/2") -- Recommended for more intense applications where occasional track use will be seen, also for more moderate climates. Will work with most aftermarket intakes.

34 Row (13" x 1 1/4" x 10 1/4") -- Recommended for forced induction applications, serious track applications, or in high temperature climates where extreme conditions may exist. This is our best selling cooler but it will require modifications to install with some intake systems, will not work with Stillen Gen 3 intakes without relocating cooler. NISMO 370Z owners will have to do some minor modifications to the front chassis dampner in order to install this cooler.

The next key part to any oil cooler system is the Oil Lines. Using -10 Stainless Steel Braided. All of the Lines feature high quality aluminum -10 AN fittings, making for a leak proof and durable system.

http://www.z1motorsports.com/imageGa...ines.sized.jpg
For the oil filter sandwich adapter, we again called upon one of the leading fluid transfer experts and supplied all of out kits with Mocal Sandwich adapters, available in both Thermostatic and Non-Thermostatic variations.
Kits include all of the necessary mounting hardware, fasteners, brackets and necessary installation manual*.

Kit prices start at $398.00 plus shipping.

You may find the Z1 Motorsports Oil Cooler Kit on our website here:
Z1 Motorsports 370Z Oil Cooler Kit

After much success with the original design, we have now upgraded/revised the Z1 Motorsports 370Z Oil Cooler Kit to now include all Mocal products. As an added benefit, we are also offering these kits with NEW LOWER PRICES!

The Base (19 row Oil Cooler Core without the Mocal Thermostatic Sandwhich Adapter plate is now $398 plus shipping.

Our most popular oil cooler configuration that offers the optimum amount of cooling and day to day streetability is our 25 Row Cooler with the Mocal Thermostatic Plate which lists for $538 plus shipping.

For Supercharged or Twin Turbo applications, our 34 row oil cooler kit is a MUST! With the temperatures already an issue on 370Z's that are pushed to the limit in stock trim, the added heat generated by the F/I Package only compounds the problem. Keep you oil running cool and lubricating like you and your engine needs it to! The kits start at $598 for Non-Thermostatic kits and go up to $638 for Thermostatic equipped kits.

As promised, the full instruction manual for the Z1 Oil Cooler Kit can now be pre-viewed online on our website by clicking on the link at the bottom of the Z1 Motorsports Oil Cooler Kit product page.

The Z1 Motorsports 370Z Oil Cooler kit can be found on our website here:

Z1 Motorsports 370Z Oil Cooler Kit

In stock and ready to ship in all core sizes!

How much shipped to 07424 for the base?

Zeto, PM replied to.

Installation
 

Can you give me a ballpark estimate on installation of the 25 row kit for a 2009 370z coupe/sport/manual? I may have hit the wrong button on the previous post. If so.....sorry about that.

Nice improvements Z1! Glad to see you guys being so proactive and listening to the real world experiences/inputs of everyone on here. :tup:

Hi Dustin, please PM me a price for the 34 row kit with all of the upgrades, compatible with a future GTM TT kit, and Berk HFCs shipped to 31302. Thanks!

PM's replied to! Thank you everyone!

Just wondering, but why doesn't the sheathing cover the entire line?

Also, I PM'ed you about some stuff (although you just answered one of them in this thread :)).


edit: I just saw the note about the sheathing, that it will vary in length. Does that mean we can expect it to cover the entire line then?

To cover the entire line would add additional cost. In order to keep the prices as low as possible [and prevent "sticker shock"], we have opted to only cover the portion of the line that will come close to contacting the chassis.

If you like, I can quote you a price to cover the entire line and build a line set specifically for your Z.

As promised, here is the newly revised Z1 Motorsports 370z Oil Cooler Kit Installation Manual. I have done a complete evaluation of the kit and have made a few critiques, making the manual much more comprehensive. Now totaling 15 pages, I feel that our installation manual is one of the best on the market

Z1 Motorsports 370z Installation Manual - PDF Doc

Also, some of the coloring on the image will look odd when viewing it in color as shown on the PDF. This is done so that it is visible when printing with a basic Black and White Laser Jet Printer.

We will be giving away a 25 row oil cooler kit with a non-thermostatic sandwich plate at the 2010 Z Nationals event.

* If you win and wish to upgrade to the Thermostatic sandwich plate and/or the 34 row oil cooler. You will only have to pay the difference.

Are there any fitment issues with the larger 34 row cooler core?

Not at all. You will have to route the lines a little differently around the Stillen Gen III intakes (if you are installing them with a 34 row core). It is completely do-able, if you look at the pics in the installation manual you will see how we routed the lines.

The width and thickness of the 19, 25 and 34 oil cooler cores are the same. The only dimension that changes across the 3 models is the height. The increased height allows for a greater surface area, allowing for more air to pass thru the core.

Let me know if you have any more questions about the kit!

Another satisfied customer
 

Figured I'd just bump this thread vs. creating a new one just to piggyback on what everyone already knows which is these oil cooler kits rock.

had our Z1 34R oil cooler w/thermostatic plate and protective sheathing installed on Sat by our mechanic. When the kit arrived a couple weeks ago, everything was there and the instructions were very clear. Our installer even commented that the instuctions were very good (not that he needed them). I haven't heard any strange sounds or any other hint that we added anything to the car other than the dramatically reduced oil temps. It does take a bit longer to get up to operating temp (160 deg +) but that was to be expected.

For fellow nismo owners, all we had to to was flip that front yamaha brace 180 deg so the "fat" side of the shock was on the passenger side and there is just a smidgen of space betwn the shock and the front of the oil cooler. I'm going to keep an eye on that area but with no moving parts around, I don't think there'll be a problem.

thanks Z1 for producing such a well thought out and functional kit at a reasonable $ to boot. :tup:

Hey Z1, I'm looking to get an Oil Cooler installed before March 19th, is this possible ordering from you? Here's what I'm looking for, and you tell me which core you'd recommend:

I am planning to get the Stillen Gen III Intakes.

I do not track the car regularly, but if an event popped up for amateurs locally, I might go...

I live in Arizona and typically travel to SoCal so ambient temps are a concern. Last summer my oil temps were in the 240-245* range on the cruise out there. So the thermostatic plate is a no brainer, but based on these facts, would you recommend the 25 row or 34 row cooler?

My last question is how is the cooler mounted? With the feed/draw's at the top, or at the bottom? Is it possible to mount the cooler Vertically? So the feed line comes in at the top and the draw is at the bottom to both ease in flow and drainage for oil changes...

_________ <-- Feed
|XXXX|
|XXXX|
|XXXX|
|XXXX|
----------- <-- Draw

(Sorry for the horrible diagram but you get the idea...)

What's going on Chris?

I will answer each question individually:

1) March 19th - Definitly doable. FedEX Ground only takes about 3~4 days to you in AZ. We have the kits in stock and ready to ship.

2) Core size - this really comes down to your budget. A 25 row would be fine on your car for basic street driving and the occasional, infrequent track event. A 34 row would be more ideal and would offer more heat dissipation, especially during the Summer and early fall months. Both the 25 and 34 row cores will clear the Stillen Gen III's without any issues, so you will not have any issues there.

3) Core Orientation - The standard Setrab/Z1 Brackets supplied were designed for allow for positioning the fittings vertically (12'o'clock position). However, you could flip the brackets around and mount the fittings in the 6'o'clock position. For a side mount position, it will require some extra fab work for the mountings and swapping out of the fittings. At that point you are basically redesigning the kit. The biggest challenge to this type of setup will be the mounting brackets.

Our reason for mounting the oil cooler in this manner is the fact that oil could potentially drain out of the oil cooler core when the engine is turned off. This would cause a brief loss off oil pressure until pressure was built up across the system. This would happen during EVERY start up. A vertical mounting position, like done on our kit (as well as Stillen, GTM and Nissan Motorsports kits) does not have this issue since the oil cooler acts as a type of reservoir for whatever oil does drain out of the oil lines (this will happen regardless due to gravity). This minimizes the amount of oil that will drain back into the oil pan.

I hope that this answers your questions. Give me a shout if you have any questions.

Dustin

Ok, thanks for answering my questions, the one about the Stillen Gen III's was based on how in your OP you had said the cooler (34 row) would get in the way. Glad to see that issue is resolved.

My other point was based on the worry of if you mounted the ports in the 12 o'clock position, when it came time to change the oil, used oil would still be in the cooler and then recirculated instead of being drained. So I thought about mounting them in the 6 o'clock position, but then I thought gravity would keep oil from being able to flow through the whole thing, not maximizing it's ability.

I guess my problem in theory was the actual flow direction of the oil. I was thinking it went from the engine through the cooler to the pan... Or does it go from the pan to the cooler then to the engine??

/\ that's an issue with pretty much any oil cooler, oem or aftermarket. wouldn't worry about it since the vast majority (85% or so) of the oil gets changed everytime anyway. You could always unmount the cooler once every 3 or 4 oil changes and just "dump" all the oil out just for piece of mind if you want. Just to put into perspective, the GTR has an oil cooler standard and in it's maintenance guidlines, which are very very strict and specific, it never mentions draining the residual oil out of the cooler ever.

Interesting thought about the dumping the cooler separately... that was the only idea that came to mind, with just loosening the lines and unmounting it, doesn't even seem like it would be that astronomical to just do it all at once. Thanks for the info! :tup:

I have a doubt on the Thermostatic / Non-Thermostatic Adapter..

I understand this is to prevent oil from flowing through the cooler until it reaches certain temperature..

I live in Panama, Central America, which has warm/hot weather year-round.. Temperature never falls below 72-73°F and this is at night time. During the day temperature is always around 90°F on average..

My Z is daily driven and I don't track it. I would be interested in the 25-row cooler. Do I still need the thermostatic adapter? Or would I be OK with the non-thermostatic one?

Also, what is the Protective Hose Wrapping?

Thanks! :tup:

Just installed the 25 row oil cooler with thermo sandwhich plate along with my gen 3 intakes. Must say shipping was very fast and the instal was a breeze. Thanks dustin for the good deal. Only problem i had was the protective hose wrap isn't in the right place but i did some mods to make it work. While testing the car hard oil temps never past 185. Awsome kit!!!! Awsome service!!!!

Correct, I generally dump my core about every 2nd or 3rd oil change. The OEM Nissan 300zx TT did not even have a comment about doing this. In comparison to the total volume of the oil system, as long as you change it regularly, the amount of "bad" oil is small.

The 3,000 mile oil change interval is really a standard recommendation. If you change you oil regularly without overheating it or allowing it to break down, then that oil could technically be used for more than 3,000 miles (given certain criteria). With this said, the leftover oil in your oil cooler core and other cavities of your engine will not technically "BAD".

But for piece of mind....I still take the time to dump mine regardless.

This is another reason why we choose to add an intermediate fitting both on the sandwhich plate and the oil cooler core side. It is very easyy to simple unscrew the top fittings and drain the core.

Over time however, like any other metal-on-metal contact surface, you will eventually need to replace the fittings. All AN fittings will eventually require replacement due to usage. To help prevent damage to the most expensive components of the system (i.e., core, lines and sandwich plate) these fittings can easily be replaced or allow for disassembly for drainage/maintanence/removal. The Stillen and GTM kits also use a similar setup whereas the Nissan Motorsports Kit does not (this could potentially be bad in the event that you accidentally strip out a fitting while screwing it into the sandwich plate of core).

Glad to hear that install went well! I appologize for the error on the line wrapping. I will make sure that this issue is brought up and make sure it is addressed. I appreciate you pointing this out.

Dustin

In your situation, I think you would be perfectly fine without a thermostatic sandwich plate. Combined with a 25 row core, this setup would work well for spirited mountain drives even during the hotter summer months.

You will just have to make sure that your oil temp warms up before thrashing the car in the mornings/leaving work. Keep in mind, oil that is too cold is just as detrimental to the engine as oil that is too hot. This is regardless of whether you have a thermostatic sandwich plate or not.

The protective line wrapping is a solution that we have found to the problems associated with the Stainless Steel Oil Cooler Lines coming into contact with the chassis. Due to constant movement of the engine and the chassis, the Stainless Steel braided lines have a tendency to wear into whatever it contacts. This could mean wearing away paint on the chassis, fraying braided lines on a sharp courner of the frame or scuffing up the plastic fender liners. Previous oil cooler kits used plastic split loom or split rubber heater hose. Neither of these two products seem to adequately protect the lines and have also proven to hinder with the line routing due to their bulk and inability to flex with the lines.

The product we use for our protective line wrapping is heat shrinkable, which forms nicely around the lines. It is a woven, fabric based material which has many positive properties.

1. Stays fairly cool to the touch, even when the oil is at its hottest.
2. Flexes very well with the lines while routing them thru the frame rails
3. Is easy to remove (Basic utility knife will work in the event that you need to remove it)
4. Is soft enough not to damage the paint on the chassis
5. No adhesives are used (This means it is easy to clean up when removed and actually allows for the wrapping to be slide into the proper location, with some effort applied)
6. It is very low profile, only enlargening the OD of the lines by around 0.05" (~ 1.25 mm).
   
   I hope that I have answered your questions. By all means, feel free to shoot me a PM or give me a call here at the shop if you have any further questions!

Dustin, is it possible to get some of this material for other lines as well, could I purchase some from you by the foot?

Dustin
 

Would like to purchase an oil cooler kit for installation in my 2009 370Z Nismo. The car will reside in SW Florida and will never be tracked. Is the 19 row unit sufficient, or should I consider the 25 row unit? Will any alteration to the Nismo be required to install either unit?

I'd get the 34-Row if you are planning on tracking it, the price difference is negligible, versus the repercussions of not having a large enough one (having to end a session early, or going lighter). Under aggressive downshifting I was hitting a little over 220 degrees, during a cool day (~50 degrees) on my first track day.

Since you will never be tracking the car, a 19 row should be sufficient for a DD. However, since you live in SW Florida (where it can be equally hot and humid) I would recommend the 25 row if you are planning on doing any spirited back road driving. Although not on a race track, our shop 370Z went into limp mode on the Tail of the Dragon at the 2010 ZDayZ event in North Carolina. This came as a result of aggressive mountain runs in short bursts.

The decision of whether to choose a 25 or 19 row cooler really comes down to your budget. Personally, I would recommend a 25 row for your car. It would be added insurance to allow you the ability to "play" even during the hotter summer months.

In regards to the installation of our oil cooler kit on the NISMO, there are ONLY two things different between the two models:

1. Removal of the undershrouds and fascia to facilitate installtion will be slightly different.
2. The NISMO/Autech/Yamaha Lateral brace will need to be flipped 180 degrees. Placing the thicker end on the passenger side of the car in order to accomodate the oil cooler core.

Let me know if you have any further questions!

Here's a stupid question. I live in NJ, where the summers are decently hot (nothing like the south) and I sit in a lot of traffic (there have been times the car hits 220 when it's 50 degrees out in bumper to bumper traffic). I plan to track the car ~ 8-10 times per year as well as autoX and lots of "spirited driving". My question is, even if I go with the 34 row, will having the thermostat ensure that even when I'm not pushing the car hard and it's not really warm out that the engine will get a minimum oil temp that it needs to operate optimally? That is, does the thermostat ensure that the oil won't run "too cold"?

Or do I just need to go with the 25 row?

The thermostatic plate won't close all the way to allow the oil to get to operating temps, but some will still make it to the cooler. This is why some members have ventured out and made DIY's for Oil Cooler plates to block the airflow. It's a simple and inexpensive mod that has promise. Most of the tracking guys swear by the larger the cooler the better, so you can't go wrong with the 34 row.

Yea the more I think about it there's no sense in taking a chance with the 25 row just to save $100.

Especially if you follow one of the DIY's that uses different plates to cover up parts of the cooler, so essentially, you could make it a '25 row' or '15 row' cooler if you wanted...

Here is the complete explanation on how the Mocal Thermostatic Sandwich Plate Operates:

At low operating temperatures, the valve within the sandwich plate is actually OPEN 100%. This is counter-intuitive for some customers, which is why I wanted to explain it in detail.

Since fluid behaves just like electricity by taking the path of least resistance. By having the passage within the sandwich plate fully OPEN at low operating temps, the oil will actually divert itself into block, by-passing the oil cooler. More oil pressure is needed to pump the oil thru the lines and core than what is needed to simply divert the oil thru the passage in the sandwich plate (back in the engine block).

This serves a few purposes by having the valve operate this way:

1) Oil pressure is still allowed to prime the oil cooler when starting the car

(If the sandwhich plate did not operate this way, it would take until the engine was at operating temperature before your oil cooler would be allowed to fully prime itself. This would cause a possible issue with oil starvation to the engine until the oil cooler lines were filled. This is one reason why it is recommended to prefill the oil cooler as well, to minimize this time in which the engine MAY experience a loss of oil pressure during the initial priming of the oil cooler.)

2) This prevents air pockets from forming within the oil cooler in the event that oil drains from the lines while sitting overnight.

3) It allows the oil cooler core to gradually warm up (at a slower rate than the oil that is circulating in the sandwich plate adapter) in order to prevent any thermal shock caused by significantly cooler oil being introduced into the lubrication system.

Once the oil reaches the predetermined temperature, the valve will close causing the oil to bypass thru the oil cooler core 100%.

The addition of a block off plate is an old school trick used by many. You will see some factory Diesel vehicles even here in South blocking off air flow to their radiators to bring operating temps up. Road Race guys will even tape up their oil coolers during test & tune to dial in their oil temps, bringing them to their optimum range.

Both of these scenarios can be experienced by 370Z owners. Some northern or midwestern Z's located in colder climates will benefit from blocking off the oil cooler during these colder months. In addition, since the weather changes so often throughout the country (especially during the spring and fall), track conditions will change along with it. Some 370Z owners who track their cars may find that experimenting with blocking off varying amounts of the cooler will help them dial in their oil temps. The amount needed to be blocked off will vary on the track, track conditions, driving style, front fascia etc. This is why road racers will use a tape to wrap/unwrap the oil cooler cores an infinite number of times.

The exact oil temp that you want to shoot for varies with the oil grade and type along with the vehicle.

I think I'll be going with the 25 row. It's not hot enough in NJ and it's still primarily a DD, with 10 or so track days a year

So I plan on doing a single turbo build here in a few weeks. I do not road race the car, but I do drag race it occasionally. I also plan on going to ZDayz. I'm curious to know what sized cooler you had when the shop car went into limp mode on the dragon? Since I'm in central FL and will be FI, you suggest the 34 correct...even if I don't road race it?

When our car went into limp mode, we actually did not have an oil cooler installed at that time. That is when we learned how important an oil cooler actually was on the 370Z.

Since the turbo charger builds up so much additional heat that is soaked up by the oil during lubrication, it will only further exagerate the issue that already exists with these cars. A 25 row may infact be suitable for your driving needs, but I would honestly be concerned about it since you are going FI. Drag racing will build up alot of heat in the engine quickly. The 1/4 mile sprint you will be doing will put a huge load on the engine. Follow this by a slow, short return lap to the pits and a lengthy wait in the staging area/lanes. Depending on the outside track temp at that time and engine/oil temps this may cause your engine temps to continue building.

You will need a core large enough to be able to control the oil temps during the 1/4mile sprint and be able to extract heat quickly once you get back to the staging areas sitting idle.

I'm currently using K&N HP-1010 oil filters with my Z. Can I continue using that same brand/model with your oil cooler kit?

Thanks!