I think they stopped putting the steering lock in for 2011 or 2012 models so you shouldn't have one.

I hope no one has to die before they make this a recall. I routinely take my Z out to places far away from civilization and cell phone signal to have some fun. And sometimes stop to take in the starry night. Could easily have ended up dead in one of these situations if the car didn't start back up.

Went to the gas station last night. Not busy, so I parked next to the door. Normally I park as far away from the door as possible, you know, because ******** like to swing their door open into other people's cars. So now I'm stranded, next to what is a very busy place on Sunday mornings. Made it 7 years with no dings. Oh well, let me go beat tf out of that box and see if I can get it started. Lovely day, pouring down rain and all, for an impromptu work on the car. Hopefully can get it started at least and drive it home into the garage and remove the fuse.

Update: well, I beat tf out of it with as much force as i could muster in the tight space. Still wouldn't switch to ACC mode. Going tomorrow when it stops raining to trying shorting out the pink wire.

Update 2: Got it working today. Stuck a pin into the wiring harness alongside the pink wire, and groumded it to the chassis with a screwdriver. At first it didn't work, but I pushed the pin a little harder and it slid in about another 1/4 inch, then it work perfectly. Touch screwdriver to pin and chassis, and boom, click - unlocked to ACC mode. Then I proceeded remove the fuse.

Thanks for having this forum. Maybe I'll have my cousin write me up an invoice from his shop so I can get Nissan to reimburse me for my parts and labor. I feel like screwing them out of the money they would have screwed me out of for their failing. I bet they didn't even reduce the MSRP when they removed the "$400" part from the build.

So went to leave for work this morning and nothing just that damn key light.

Tapped it a few times and pulled the fuse now it’s perfect! Thanks for the good right up this was a life saver! 👌👌

Mine failed again yesterday, second time. I had success with the tire iron by hitting it rapidly. Hitting it hard didn't do it. So I tapped it real fast and it went to ACC right away. Went home and removed the fuse. Easy to do. Now the key icon is on all the time. Probably telling me I have a bad fuse. So next oil change I need to make sure they don't do me any favors and replace the fuse.

Thanks for this. I recently had this problem and searched the web to help solve this.

I was able to get it back into ACC mode by using a probe for the module and connecting it to ground. I had the car in ACC mode and then took the 10A fuse out.

After that, I put everything back into place and tried to start my car but it was unseccessful. Would the next problem just be that my module is downright malfunctioned and need to replace it?

I am able to start it using the probe but once I have it not connected to ground, it wont start.

Was wondering if this thread can help me out. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

The problem is usually that the locking pin has not retracted far enough to actuate an internal switch*. Link in my sig to more info. If the switch is not the problem then the ESCL may have faulty electronics.

*Edit: It will retract far enough to unlock the wheel but not far enough to hit the switch.

Thanks for the help! I kept trying to start it using a needles and connecting it to ground and I was able to get it working. I then was able to just do the fuse trick and it’s been running so far. I’m not exactly sure what I did thought to make it functional at the moment. I will be looking into your sig!


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I keep reading about cutting the brown wire but can’t seem to find that post or thread. I am the proud owner of a new to me 2010 Z and would like to prevent this happening to me.

Click the link in SouthArk's signature two posts up from yours :twocents:

Got it. Thanks for your help!

I did this today. My lock had not failed but I thought I better get ahead of it.
It’s actually nice not to hear that thing retract when you start the car now!
Thanks For the write up. It made this super easy.

After reading a lot about the dreaded steering wheel lock, I've decided to try the preventative measure of removing the fuse. I've read this thread (as well as others) and I'm glad to say it worked!

So just to summarize:
1. my steering wheel lock always worked fine
2. my car is 2009, all original, with 10k miles, so probably it was just a matter of time when it will seize
3. I put the car in ACC, opened the fuse box and pulled the steering wheel lock fuse out
4. problem solved, wheel lock removed.


....5. I use disklok for added theft security on the car, so I'm really not worried about the steering wheel lock.

Thank you for the free fix!

Mine failed today on my 2011 Nismo with only 16k miles on the odometer. Crazy that this fails so soon. Would have saved me a lot of time if I found this forum before it failed! Still saved me from towing the thing!!

Key light was on the dash and could not advance to ACC. Kept the ground wire jumped until I started the car and then removed the fuse.. Turned the car off and on a few times.. Good to go!!:driving:

Im so confused by this whole thing. My 2011 370z lighted up the key indicator a couple of days ago. Reading through all these suggestions, and as the car still turns on, I went to remove the fuse by the battery. After removing all panels and finally getting to fuse box, I open up and...

Nothing.

There is no fuse where the steering lock fuse is supoosed ro be. I have been the only owner of this car since August of 2011. Is this possible?

If your car still starts and runs fine and the fuse is removed, then you are good to go from that standpoint. Most likely the previous owner removed it. The key indicator can illuminate for reasons other than your steering lock. Could just be your fob battery.