Hey Guys so here is a delayed update...

I removed the box and drilled the holes over the divets before cutting with a dremel....here is where it gets REAL....had a buddy that was with me who kept telling me to "drill more" (knowing damn well it's always better to drill less than more) so I punch right through the box with the drill. After cutting open with a dremel I see I went right through one the blue buttons...I take the box upstairs and decide to eat dinner and cool down before I perform brain surgery...after an hour of using glue and fabric tape i was able to salvage the button...MIRACLE!!!! So I removed the motor and that top part that releases the rod which was the real issue in my case (sorry dont know what it is called). Put everything back together and voila!!! The yellow "key" light has stayed on but I'm good with that....fast forward 4 weeks and my battery dies! I get in the car this morning and it was done for..called AAA and they jumped it and I drove it for 30mins..when i lock the care with the fob a red light with a wrench symbol begins flashing...I have read some threads on here about it being an early warning to a steering lock failure...well I "fixed" mine and pulled the fuse after this battery situation (for safe measure). I really hope I can fix this or it doesnt happen again, which is unlikely...


On another note...prior to me attempting to fix this on my own I took it to the dealer to be diagnosed so I can make a claim...This is where Nissan began screwing me..they told me "the warranty for this part which was extended" due to its issues ended in April of 2015. Which is funny because my factory warranty ended in August 2015 so it really wasnt an extension for me to begin with...they ran me their corporate loops and I waited a week just to be told the did not approve my claim....complete BS

Does the 2012 370z Nismo have this steering lock issue ? My car won't start sometimes took it to dealer and they say I have a faulty ipdm ?

No ESCL in 2012's.

The dealer is probably going to want to replace the whole IPDM/ER no matter how minor the problem is. It might be cheaper to find someone with some experience working with electricity (the IPDM is fairly simple) to repair it. More info available in the FSM (see link in my sig).

Thanks!! I got mine to run. 2010 20,000 KM #48700-JF00C sitting on the garage over the winter and been starting it every 2-3 weeks. One day it just wouldn't start. I found this post and I tried hitting the box with a rubber mallet several times but it would not work. I called Nissan dealership and Nissan Canada but told me that I have to pay around $1100 to get it fixed. I got the towing company setup and was ready to pay the amount. I tried it one last time but this time I tried hitting the box with a tire iron pretty hard and it started running!

Now my car has been running for the past week. I haven't removed the fuse. Should I still put it on ACC and remove the fuse?

I have also been thinking of writing a letter to Nissan Canada with some links here and try to get mine replaced to Rev D. Another user posted what he wrote to Nissan and got $500 back.

Yes. Most definitely yes.

Thanks
 

I removed the fuse and all is good now!!!

My 2011 Z failed today. My car won't start and the alert is showing. Only, my steering wheel is not locked. I can move the wheel. But car won't start. is the fix the same as described here, to hit the steering wheel lock under the wheel? My car is two miles from home now in a parking lot. Also, what happens if you just pull the fuse? Does that disable the lock and allow the car to start?

It's worth a try to bang on it for a while.

If the ESCL is bad, pulling the fuse at this point will just make things worse. See link in my sig.

Thanks. I didn't even look yet because from all the posts I've read my car doesn't have the electronic steering lock assembly.

My car is also a 2011 model (late 2010 production) and it has the steering lock. It locked up on me but I got it running again by following the procedures posted and removed the fuse. That was 2 years ago. Car has been running strong since.

Thanks Zbrah. I'm going back soon with an assortment of hammers.

Mine did the same think last year it was a 2011. I ended up taking it to the shop because like you mine was not locked but unlocked and stuck in a Walmart parking lot on the night of an ice storm. Pulling the fuse and betting on it didn’t work for me since what broke was a switch in the device that showed it was disengaged. Needless to say it sucked. After having check it out they verified it was the steering wheel lock that failed after having it replaced I was able to get Nissan to pay for the part and half the labor. I the pulled the fuse and have not had any issues since. So I wish u luck with getting it working and if not yell at Nissan to get a free part then pull that fuse. ��

I got it working. A big hammer and lot of patience. Took a while, but not too long. Really helps to have someone in the passenger seat pushing the start button while you are below hammering. I got it started and drove it home. As I was tapping it with the hammer oil was dripping out of the seams. I'm going to pull the fuse and not bother with replacing the unit. When mine stuck it was -2 outside. Maybe the oil was thicker and caused it to stick. It was 30 today when I got it going.

[QUOTE=kcquinn49;3720263... I'm going to pull the fuse and not bother with replacing the unit. ...[/QUOTE]
Pull the fuse ASAP or you'll probably be stranded again.

Question. My car is fine but I want to remove the fuse as a precaution. Its a 2014 model. Nissan dealer says there isn't a TSB for my car but since the car hasn't changed that much I figure I'll take the precaution and remove it..

Since my car is fine at the moment can I just remove the fuse? I don't have to get a hammer or put it in ACC mode right?

I can just do it with the car off correct?